can you buy new lock cylinders with a key off any vendors? Im in an area that has no other DSM's

What disc did you put on? I know that puck discs are known for chatter

Even using a bike pump will let you know if it leaks. You'll know right away.

Have you made absolutely sure there is ZERO air in the clutch line? Swapping to a completely new line means a lot of bleeding. Also, have you checked for proper placement in the clutch fork window? Without the clutch pushed in the end of the fork that the slave pushes should be slightly off...

Knowing you're not planning on taking off the manifold or turbo. But it would make it a bit easier if you loosen the manifold studs and pulled it away from the head a bit. Will give you an extra bit to work in

If you're looking to get into link, buy a good quality wideband, vac/boost guage and oil pressure.For a clutch setup, buy a new flywheel so you don't have to deal with stepping it. You won't need a twin disc setup unless you really want one just to say you have it. An ACT street disc and a...

Extensions and wobble bits are the best to work with. Wd40 penetrant works best. If you change your mind and want to crack them loose when it's hot, Wear gloves.

Tow truck time bud. Sorry to hear

The argument of which oil is best is a long one. I use Mobil 1 synthetic. Depends what time of year it is for what weight I use.

pretty sure the wrong bolts are taken out bud. If you're positive its right, try depressing your clutch pedal a bit. the force would separate it no problem.

Get your hands on a quality wideband for when you go to link

First of all, why are you overheating in the first place? Check your thermostat for operation. Also make sure your coolant temp sensor is working properly, along with the rad fan switch sensor

if you had to wire in a button its most likely going to be the starter relaydid you test the signal wire for 12v with the key turned to start?

I still think a go pro mount somewhere needs to be necessary for the first pass and so we can see you say 'wow everyone was right'

check the connections and make sure the connections are good and clean. If still not working pull the signal wire and check if that is getting power when the key is turned to 'start'. If no power is present with the key turned check the starter relay. Its going to be something simple.

pull the vent on the trans and look inside and actually watch the TOB move on the input shaft. Also, make sure that your master cylinder is properly adjusted

before putting anymore money into your car take the quick few minutes and pull your oilpan, to inspect the bottom end.

Might have been your turbo giving out. To be positive about the headgasket do a cylinder leak down test and check for gurgling in your coolant. Also check your turbo for shaft play.

There's five bolts holding the tcase to the Trans. If you have an aftermarket downpipe you may need to remove that as well

If you loosen the drive shaft carriers the driveshaft will slide out a bit, but not enough for you to pull the tcase off. You'll have to loosen the bolts that connect to the diff as well.

Try a leak down test and itwill give you the answer

A trick to get the gears to not jump teeth when you take the pin out is use spring loaded clamps to hold the belt firmly on the gear

check if the starter is even getting signal from the key by checking for the 12v when the key is turned to START

You said you tried to lower your boost with an mbc, but what spring do you have in your wastegate? That spring will control your minimum boost level. Your MBC might be turned down further than what your spring is for

did you rewire the pump properly?

could always do the vacuum delete and emissions delete? clears up some space

Just use an extractor. It'll get it out no problem

if it really comes down to you can only run one fan, custom make a shroud out of some sheet metal?

I was able to turn my motor via the starter or with a wrench. The valves were still totalled

the mistake i made was that i read the ecu pinout to be on the plug and not on the ecu itself. coincidentally four pins in on either side of the plug is a white wire. one is detonation and the other is the o2 pin. Good luck!

Same thing happened to me when I hooked up my wideband. You either counted from the wrong side of the plug or connection to the o2 pin wasn't good enough.

i heard if you turn the uicp upside down it'll work, anybody know the truth on this?

when using a magnus smim with an ets dmic kit on a 1g is there any modifying needed to make the piping work?

does anyone have pictures of a 1g with a autopower roll bar in it?

If you have the nozzle too close it won't have enough time to turn into steam before entering the runners. But yes, by having it too far will have some negative affects. Mishimoto sells a coupler that can go in between the uicp and the throttle body elbow, that has a tapped hole for a nozzle

Test pipe is the only way, no cats needed:p

You want to at least give the meth the chance to turn into steam in the intake pipe. If you want the ecu to read before the charge air has been cooked down, put your air before the nozzle. Remember by doing so the ecu is going to feed fuel for the given temp of what the sensor is receiving

just go to a sprung 6 puck.

The extended rod is the biggest bandaid in your whole set up. If you need to use one, you likely are covering up another problem. You likely need a shim or rebuild your pedal assembly.

aftermarket clutches with heavier pressure plates sometimes needing more throw to disengage the clutch properly. look at your clutch fork and see where it sits within the window going into the transmission. Ive just done this and had to take everything apart to replace the pivot ball and fork...

I just installed an oem master and slave cylinder on my 1g. Used a power bleeder to filled bleed the system. Now when I go to push the clutch it goes straight to the floor and doesnt return. Went to go look under the dash and moved the pedal to check for wear and the master cylinder rod won't go...

has anyone recirculated a bov with an ets uucp? on a 1g

take off your intake pipe and see how much shaft play you have. sounds like your shaft seals are done.

Is your isc at 30 when your idle is at 750? If not adjust till there

You could salvage that tank with the kit. Maybe some rtv around the holes to ensure it's sealed

Check your connections

Test your coil pack and your cas

Could just buy a new core head and transfer your parts over

Fix all the vacuum leaks and ensure the plug by the coil pack is plugged in

has he passed his budget mark of 5k yet? Also, for the amusement of everyone, use that go pro mount on the spoiler and take a video of this car on its first pass. so we can hear you saying "you guys were right.."