Heres another pic of the pte o2 housing. As you can see theres nothing dividing the boost side and exhaust side. So when boost tries to go to the external wastegate it goes into the exhaust and i build 0 boost.
I cant run external off the o2 housing because theres a gap between the wastegate port and exhaust port, If that makes sense and the boost falls right into the exhaust. I'll post a better pic of it.
Ok so im wondering if i can use this hotside in place of my pte because i cant run the pte for external wastegate. The one where the wheel fits snug is the pte.
I had same problem and my tps was good and i tested my iac valve and it was within spec..i replaced iac anyways and it fixed my idle problem. They're cheap off rockauto.
First off im sorry if this has been answered before or if its a really stupid question but i just need some reasurring. I took out my thermostat today and it came out compressed, does that mean it was stuck open?
thanks for that link dexterholland04, that was really informative. now about my vacuum leak concern, it idles just over 1000 rpms all the time even when warmed up.
the little plastic siphon piece..i did post a picture, and yes i drilled it because my fuel pressure wouldnt come down from 60 psi..now i can get it as low as 25 :) i set it at 43, does that sound right?
my afr's at idle are around 13.7, is that bad for the car and am i loosing power if im running a little rich all the time? im on stock boost if that makes a difference.
thanks in advance.
is there any way to tell if my wastegate is stuck open by just looking at it from the outside or do i need to take off the 02 housing. i am not building any boost at all but the car runs fine just without going into boost.
I tested my TPS following this page.. DSM simple test page and when i tested the 2nd and 4th pin and open the throttle (with the car off) it either jumped all over the place or it dint read anything at all.Could this be a bad TPS?
so i bought some studs a while back but i cant remember if they were head studs or main studs..is there any ways of knowing what i have? they were used and dint come in a box so i don't have a part number.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXpDTxKmapw&feature=youtu.be
Here's a link to the video of what the car is doing it actually manages to stay on for a while..during the whole video i never stepped on the gas.after about 1 minute the car idled at about 800 rpms but it it still sounded rough and...
so my car jumped timing out of no where and bent my valves.i fixed that problem and set timing but it still wouldn't start.found the CAS was broken so i replaced that,still wouldn't start then i saw that my CPS was also broken so i replaced that as well but it still wont start. before i replaced...
Ok it turned out to be that somehow the car jumped timing.My question now is do you think I have bent valves because I would try and start the car every time I checked/changed something.
Ok so.. I was backing out of a parking lot and my car died, I tried turning it back on and it just cranks.
I connected my obd2 computer to check my check engine and it gave me 2 codes.
1st. p0125-"Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control"
2nd.p0304-"cylinder 4 misfire...
i had smoke coming out like that once..does it stutter when accelerating or let off the gas?
mine turned out to be spark plug wires,they werent bad but when i changed my valve cover to replace it i accidentally connected the wires in the incorrect order :/ fu**ed ecerything up
i pretty sure its your frame..im having the exact same problem with my talon it was also in a accident and the right side was pushed in a little..ive had the car alligned twice with no success..