Thanks, we had 4 rockers come off and 1 shattered. That's the only thing we have found that could of caused this.

Pictures will be posted at the bottom.I'm going to drop by the machine shop this weekend, but wanted to know if I should just find a new head to take or if this one could be repaired and saved.The pits are identical on the piston, cylinder 1/2/3 have these but #2 is the worst...

The car already had dsmlink v3, no afc tuner was in the car. Found out it used to have one with a previous owner. Thanks for the heads up, I just got another wiring harness so I will just replace the whole thing. Did a compression test and found 1-149psi, 2- 85psi, 3- 151psi, 4- 147psi. Time to...

So I was doing a pull and all miss shifted (noob mistake happens) from 3rd to 2nd (reacted fast and put it in neutral). Gave it a little gas and noticed it was missing pretty bad so we found a spot to pull over and check to see if anything had happened under hood.We saw this wire green wire...

I have a 4 fuse block on my firewall that my main power wire goes into, but for added measure I think I may move it closer to the battery.

It looks like you didn't take the advice of anyone from the last thread you posted....On to those "coil overs" can you post better pictures of the install on those. Never seen or heard of them before.

When I was going my relocation I read through a couple threads on here.I'm linking this thread as it has some very useful information. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/19070-battery-relocation-merged-3-8-a-16.html

I agree with crash, my car has been on the act2600 and Fidanza flywheel with no idle issues. I just switched to QM FX500 (6 puck unsprung). Drove a dsm w/ QM twin disk, once I got used to it it drove great.

Are you going to attempt to fix the car or a good shop that you trust doing it? As stated above oil pan looks fine. I'm in Texas and do not have A/C in my 1g, though it's only driven on the weekends for car shows and late night activities.

I had the same problem and sent a email to ECMlink trying to figure it out... this is what they sent me (copied directly from my email).This ended up being my issue and was sent a new cable.

Is there any negative sides to running a twin scroll manifold and using one wastegate (like the manifold you linked)?

I'm using the FP intake, evo 8 maf, and a cobb short filter. About to switch to speed density so I can get rid of the odd sized coupler between the maf/ intake.

I've been battling deciding on what I want to do w/ my exhaust. I currently have a 3in straight exhaust w/ wastegate dump. I've ran the car open down pipe after I replaced the exhaust manifold and turbo. The spool sound of of the hx35 is music! I've been thinking about setting my exhaust up for...

Could always post up a log and let ppl see what is going on. I'd go back and watch the video's on the ecm's website.

For awhile I wanted to pick up a pte 6262, but with enough research on this forum I think I'll just stick to the holset turbos.

Mine did the same.However if your really worried do a leak down and compression test and see if everything is okay.

If the image is saved on your computer, use the paper clip icon.

I have a internally gated HX35 that I welded the flapper shut on, I've not had any issues with surge on mine.

Mine did the same thing as the OP stated... and eventually got worse to the point that it would actually shut the ecu off and on while driving. After replacing everything I could think of (even sent the new ecu out for testing) it ended up being the alternator, replaced it with a Autozone alt...

The alternator has been tested and came back fine.

I have no clue what your talking about, switch then EFI plug....I put up a datalog for those who know how to read through it and see what they can come up with.

So the story continues...I've replaced alot of parts on this car with no good out comes. I called around and got some advice to go ahead and send the ecu to ECMtuning and have them look over it. Sent it out and was told the ecu looked and tested good and they could not get it to replicate...

Looks like I'll take it in to a shop on wed after the mpi relay switch if it's not fixed. We've gone through the wiring with no only one needing to be fixed. Battery wires are good and all grounds are good. Can't tell me the ecu is bad at this point as it's been tested and is in good working...

Checked the ground wire, and even traced it to ensure there was no frays in the line. It's good and and bolted down tightly.I went ahead and ordered a new relay (mpi/mfi ?) and will be here on wed.

I'll looked last week at the positive line, though I'll double check the ground. I don't drive the car every day, it started the issue and I put it in the garage. Did the new ecu and noticed it did it again so back in the garage as I don't want to mess anything else up.

It does feel like power is being cut for a split second or the ecu is resetting. The battery is in the trunk and shows no signs of corrosion and terminals are tight (made sure by pulling them off and reconnecting them). MPI fuse, is it located under the hood?It's not storing any CEL I think...

I've been having this issue for the last 2 weeks, I've been looking through multiple forums trying to pin point the cause of my issue.Issue- While driving the vehicle the car will stall for a split second, normally dropping the rpm's by a 1k then goes back to normal. The CEL does come on...

No it was a F38 and I just got a new F38 ( at a good price), I'm planning to have a fabicator make me a top mount manifold with the Tial MVS wastegates.I thought the new wategate would fix the issue... I installed the wasteagte and went for a run. Same thing 30psi and pulling. I was a bit...

It's the wastegate, did a pull from it and still nothing. We took it apart and the diaphragm was pinched and had a small tear in it. Thanks, heading out to pick up a new one now.

Can you post up a picture, I understand what your saying but I didn't take down the controller. I thought I had it exactly like it was... but I'll pull up the install instructions and take a look. That would cause a issue though :)

Nothing as changed though besides new manifold... on a boost leak wouldn't that hamper my boost. I'm not losing boost I'm gaining way to much and can't control it. Before this new turbo, remember my previous turbo was an HX35, had no creep issues what so ever. All I did was pick up a rebuilt...

I've spent the full day looking up at all the threads on this and can't really pin point anything. So here is my issue.... and I'll put a log on here.The last hx35 was swapped out in favor for a newer rebuilt model, well upon pulling everything apart I noticed the exhaust manifold was...

I'm having problems getting my car to connect with link, I've tried 2 computers and neither will connect. I've gone through all the steps (set it for v3- 1st gen) and double checked the diagnostic port (all is good). The computer see's the cable and downloads the drivers, and is using comm port...

I was told by a few when I put the new laptop on I would have to do some setup on the laptop (ie set it to EVO maf, and set the deadtime for the 1200cc injectors), I was however scared that by doing this I would reset the fuel map. Thanks, I'll head outside and give it a shot.

Just to get it right, just hook my laptop up? I've already installed link on the laptop. Is there anything else I will need to do when I put the laptop in?

Just picked up a 91 talon tsi that already has v3 link in it. Can I use my new laptop without pulling the current tune off the car? If I put the laptop on and will it see the previous settings (as in evo maf, 1200cc injectors)?