so for the past few days Ive had an issue shifting into reverse i would have to go from forth to reverse for it to go in. now this morning on my way to work i backed out of my driveway shifted from 1-5 no issues. I was down the road at a light shifted into where 1st would be but i was in 3rd...
I said the same thing just wait till you feel what 24psi feels like then that's it now I'm going to be building a 700hp motor. Iit happens to all of us link is still my best suggestion it'll help monitor everything and really get the most out of your setup trust me I wish link was the 1st thing...
You might be able to just purchase a fuel pump rewire kit off stm and fix the problem might be a small short grounding out its an option and a cheap upgrade in the process
I suggest going straight to link not the safc if you plan on modding further just buy it once and you won't spend money twice and its well worth it just a suggestion.
if your looking for best out of those go with wideband 1st get an innovate they hook up to link and there has been some cases of the AEM uego wideband having isssues with link. then get ecmlink and worry about other mods later you want to be able to monitor your car before trying to gain hp.
hope you have supporting mods and maintenance up to date to do this with :thumb: i checked profile and didn't see any supporting mods just don't want to see you break something.
i had an issue like this once i had a leak at my j-pipe where it bolts to the turbo and it made a high pitch whistle almost like a super charger it was the most annoying thing.... check that out and see if it leaks there.there will be some oil from blow by in the turbo itll only create a...
You can't just slap bigger injectors on a car without any way to tune them it'll cause your car to run super rich. Running rich will cause tough startup and also running rich can burn out piston rings I suggest you change that 1st try soaking the stocks in gasoline over night then reinstall...
Yes I should have specified that I'm taking out the black box ecu and putting in link now will the cams be any issue at all with the 1g CAS and the 7 bolt cams? And do you will the harness off magnus motorsports work?Here is link 1G in a 2G Adaptor Harness - 97-99 | Magnus Motorsports
OK I have a 95 eagle talon tsi fwd I'm going to be picking up a 97 Gsx with 50k on body and tranny there is no motor in it. I haven't had a chance to see the car in person yet but he said it is wired for a 6 bolt. I am going to be dropping in my stock 7 bolt motor for now. Reason I am doing this...
to me if he wants to make his current car a little nicer inside and out theres nothing wrong with it its his car. Id focus alot on suspension and clutch 1st cause interior you can get lucky sometimes on here with people parting out there cars but susepension can get a little pricey and at 150k...
my mistake on previous post i mised the part where it said pulling air into the engine bay sorry for that but wrapping the downpipe wil lower the engine bay temps and a ducting system will also be able to help you do you have anything aroound the intercooler between your fmic and the radiator so...
running your fans while driving down the highway restricts airflow to the radiator. also other things you can try is heat wrapping your exhaust and downpipe and make some sort of ducting system into the engine bay to lower temps.
yes it is connected I remember that 1 cause I forgot it the 1st time around and then plugged it in when I went to install the battery and noticed it hanging.UPDATE: I believe i have determined the problem as 1 of the coils in my ISC has gone bad as im getting no resitance from the top 3 which...
I havent done 1 personally on these cars yet but if you search im sure you will find a guide on it how much mechanical ability do you honestly have before you try and tackle a job such as this?
1. Dumb question but where is it located im almost positive everything is connected but i will double check in just a minute
2. the 3 nipples are capped off on the trottle body
3. yes EGR block off plate and new gasket forgot to list that
4. boost leak test was done yesterday and fixed all...
sounds like a headgasket to me try pressurizing the coolant system just fill it with water and pressurize it and see where the leak is coming from but for oil and coolant to leak out it sounds like a headgasket
almost sounds like your E-Brake is frozen try not pulling up the E-Brake when you part and just put it into 1st gear and then when you pull out see if it still does it
Ok so i just redid my timing belt with the BSE done to it pulled the motor and tranny at once and now when my car starts idle is around 1200 rpm's but as the car warms up the idle raises it went up to 3000RPM's today while I was driving and cant seam to figure out why I will be trying to figure...
from my personal exsperience on ebay items they are terrible i have purchased BOV off ebay that leaked AFPR that lasted a month before the seals blew off even headlights shorted out on me now 85 for a timing belt kit sounds like a good deal but my water pump alone was 75 from a reliable vendor...
check the code on top of the piston by pulling out the spark plug to verify that is it built the way he claims it is but overall the amount of time itll take parting out the car wouldnt be worth it to me but you can make a profit of of it.
with that CR you should be fine to handle some more boost your stock fuel system can handle 15psi MAX before running out of fuel as the injectors cant handle it there are people running SAFC without problems yes but I just dont suggest it to anyone. your stock fuel lines will handle some extra...
my suggestion before you try and put bigger injectors and all is do a compressiom test to make sure its even worth it. with 190k on the motor assuming stock internals you should see if the motor has good compression to determine the life of the motor or if itll need a rebuild in the near future...
do you have emissions delete done to the car if so did you disconnect the fuel pressure sylenoid? if you still have it installed it sounds like its bad. its located near the brake fluid resevior and has vacume lines going from your intake manifold to the sylenoid to your fuel pressure regulator.
well the only thing I can think of that would knock would be the shaft inside breaking apart which happened both times my turbo blew to me. still I never had a knocking but I guess its possible and if that is the case buy another turbo as itll cost more to rebuild it at that point than buy a 14b.
did you shut off the car right away or did you continue to drive it cause the turbo usually doesnt make a knocking noise I blew 2 t-25's and neither of them made a knocking noise. I went to the 16g after that and never had any problems knock on wood LOLif you need a new turbo contact...
this car has everything done to it professionally the AWD swap was done by infamous performance and tuned by the best tuner they have their has a brand new fuel cell in the back and ive personally helped him work on this car it is 100% beautiful all around the under body is rust free the car...
I know this guy personally and have seen the car in person it is an extreamly clean car and he has replaced so much on it interior and body are mint the car is always garaged and he takes really good care of it
if your only looking for that much power with an easier install setup with less modifacation go with the FP 68 HTA it has the capabilities your looking for and quick spool up. Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 68HTA for DSMget rid of that safc though its useless get DSMlink and also find...
well to help you out a little better what is your goal for the car? and also certain turbos require customization are you looking for a more direct bolt on?
also soemthing may be wrong with shift linkage and it not engaging into 1st gear.EDIT** BLT is a must boost leaks can cause more problems than most people think.
k well 1st of all 27 psi on a s16g turbo is just asking for blow seals. that loud whine noise with the hesitation is mostlikely caused from a boost leak near the j-pipe had the same thing happen to me turned out my j-pipe gasket was blown. that ebay turbo will let go on you so hope they gave a...
^^+1 everything you see there will have to be replaced by actual reliable parts the only thing you could possibly get to work is the intercooler core and the drain for the turbo. ebay BOV seals leak the turbos blow ( I know from personal exsperience ) we have a turbo builder on here that you can...
if you feed from the OFH and have a BSE done you should have an oil restrictor just to be safe feeding from the OFH with a 16g can be better if you really push you car as stated by jusmx141 in a private message as the 16g in its higher rpm's when fed from the head can not have a significant...
deffinatly sounding like a headgasket but good job with on the problem solving procedure instead of just jumping on here saying what do I do like most people do LOL
does it scream like a supercharger? if sound it sounds like a leak at the j-pipeedit: oh and just so you can see what the s16g can produce DSM Dyno Challenge - Small_16g
id get that turbo fixed 1st then slowly do the other stuff and keep an eye on you oil and carry some with you your car can run and drive with oil leaks as long as they are minor but its not going to move if that turbo lets go. PM jusmx141 he can rebuild the turbo for you or sell you a reliable...
as stated before but i never saw answered do you have a boost gauge to verify that your boosting at 14psi? the stock does not tell you boost levels just that you are boosting. go to home depot get a few things and make a boost leak tester and check for boost leak as everyone has stated on here...
also to help us figure it out exactly whats going on when did the car start doing this and was the tranny / clutch acting unusual in any way such as slipping or anything?
well for sure that isnt stock fuel system the stock injectors can only handle a max of 15psi of boost theres probably some tuning device in the car too hopefully dsmlink. got a nice setup so far look further into the car and pop open the ECU as stated before and see if its chipped itll be a red...