take the car back into your own hands and teach yourself how to work on it.

um throttle stuck?

I built one and the parts list came up pretty high. Megasquirt ecu custom tune head studs turbo fmic piping turbo manifold aeromotive fpr bigger injectors lightweight pistons eagle rods clevite bearings. Polish your crank.420a motors have a weak point where the head bolts to the block. Do...

I went down building the 420a motor. Honestly you will need to oring your motor.

There is probably a small difference but I would say that you are experiencing a placebo effect.

About 6 months ago I traded my boosted 420a gs for a 1990 TSI AWD. The car came needing A LOT OF TLC. The charge lines were loose and the thing would barely want to drive a mile or two. I was just happy to finally get a 4g63!!!!! I know the car had some potential I just had to do a couple of...

take two nuts for the studs and run them into each other on the headstud then unscrew the bottom one. You should be able to get all your studs outh

man you are going about this all wrong. Don't buy a new one if its not broken. You are going to have to get under the dash and adjust the mastercylinder linkage. Do it before you destroy your synchros. I have a 90 tsi awd and absolutely love it! congrats.

congrats pedro!

turbo seal

Hey guys I have replaced my master and slave cylinder. My problem is the I have to bleed the hydraulics about two times a day. It slowly gets harder and harder to shift. I can't visually see any leaks I'm my line. I know that the adjustment rod coming from the master is adjusted all the way out...

Ummm blown headgasket, faulty water pump, pinhole in coolant line. Those 420a just have a hard time holding boost, time to pull the head buddy.

boost leak and blown head gasket.

Maybe it is the master. I'm going to replace the slave, then probably rebuild the masterWell I took the master out to replace and found that it was leaking or so I guess the rubber ring was holding most if it in

I would get it rebuilt.

I had the super 16g, they are pretty nice turbos!

whoops thanks for the correction, dont want to give bad info out. Yea try running the car at night time to see if plug wires are arcing.

Oh ok, I see. Not bad. Pressure test before you thow it on the car though.

step down to the 6es and stay at the same gap. I did that on mine, helped out a ton.looks like its getting real hot try the 6es same gap

ummm what did u do

I'll take a pic of the unit(s) in a minute! I appreciate the help so much buddy! I bled all the old fluid out using a mighty vac, it was super dark almost black. I'm feeling like I might have an internal leak in the master cylinder. I'll take pic in a bit.Ok, so the master cylinder looks new...

Ok, I bled the clutch run smoother than it has since I had the car. No clutch grab at all. The next morning the car would not let me select any gear at all. I am either thinking clutch slave or a hole in the line. I did have to mess with the line a little bit the other day in order to get my...

oh ok ill go back... just figured I would start another one since I resolved the other

Ok guys, I think my slave cylinder is going or something. If I bleed the clutch and let it sit overnight it will not let me select a gear in the morning. If I bleed the clutch it will drive like butter until I let it sit for a couple of hours or more. I feel like this is leaning more towards my...

Well I bought the knockoff with a legit rebuild kit from summit. Basically got the entire fpr for 100For all u guys that want to spend a lot of money for name. Go for it or do what I did and get the same thing for less

Well this is resolved. I bled the clutch and it shifts like butter in all gears. Even better than before! I love being right!

Well I was on the way to work to be honest. Had no other way to get there. I was thinking I might have air in my lines. Where is the bleeder valve at?

Ok guys so my car just started acting up all of the sudden. No slip or anything like that prior. Anyways this morning I had to slam it in reverse to get it to go. It would just grind. I had to slam in every gear. I think the clutch is not disengaging. Whenever I push the clutch in it does not...

I would say a little bit of water with some blue

rod knock!!!possible spun bearing... more than likely time to pull the oil pan

are your fans turning on?

its an autometer boost gauge and I physically know the boost is not going up. Should be able to tell a difference.Ok guys took my blow off valve off and cleaned the grime off of it. Then put the blow off valve back on with some copper sealant. Went for a drive and about blew my engine, I hit...

Ok, i'm going to try an blt as soon as I get a chance. Its driving me crazy

Ok so I have been working on this 1g trying to make a fast dsm. I cannot get it to boost past 9 psi to save my life, this is my third boosted car so I def have some knowledge. I have a turbosmart dual stage controller hooked up and working properly. So far I have replaced the throttle body with...

check to make sure your wg flapper is closed shut

ECU leaking caps? alt should be good

Ok guys my charge light came on, went to go get my battery tested out. Turns out I had a bad cell but the battery was 100% tested. I bought a new battery and put it in but the charge light did not cut off. Should I be concerned? Its been driving fine.

Is the wg actuator rod hooked up to the flapper. I bet it's not. Try a spark plug change too

ok cool, thanks guys

Ok guys I have a 1990 tsi awd that i'm showing some tlc, the car has been getting excessively louder at start up after it has been sitting a while. I'm sure the head still has the original lifters. My question is would it be ok to throw the lifters (revised) Topline Revised Lash Adjusters...

Unfortunately, when you run the car at a high enough temp the aluminum head start to warp. A spike in temperature can be caused by a depressurized coolant system, allowing the coolant to boil and dramatically raise temperature. However, once the head gets hot enough and begins to warp it will...

your spark is probably blowing out, try putting new ngk copper plugs in gapped at about .030. I had the same problem and just stepped down to a colder plug and had to close the gap a little bit.

No I'm running synthetic now, sorry for the confusion. I am having a hard time posting via forum runner on the iphone.

Ok cool... I'm going to step up to 15w40, thanks for the input!!

I'm in upstate sc and have pretty hot summers with mild winters i drive pretty hard and go to the drag strip occasionally. Would 15w40 be too thick for my car I'm trying to quiet my oil pump a little bit

Ok cool and I guess the conventional oil would make it more audible?I meant to say synthetic would make it more easily heard?

I'm using full synthetic now my power steering has been deleted. If he sound doesn't go away I might go to 20w50 royal purple. Is this too heavy or should it be ok?It's only when it's warming up then the noise vanishes. I just don't want to be too then and mess anything upOr what about a...

Ok guys I just switched from a semiconvential 10w30 to castroil 10w30 nextgen full conventional. Immediately after start up I noticed that the engine sounded like I could hear the oil pump making noise. Not really like a grinding or anything just that the pump is audible. The oil pressure is...

I would imagine it would be the valves if your getting 0 on it... pull the head and look to see if everything is the way it should be. Compare the other three to the one that is low.

I have a big 16g by turbo xs, 10k on the turbo with no shaft play. If I could afford the real deal I would but the CXracing will do fine for a while till you can save up to get the real deal.