keep goin with what you have, i was pushing 25psi with my s16g and was easily at 300 hp. the car spooled quick and was fast. there is alot of potential still with what you have

i just pm'd him here, it took a couple days but then he got back and we went on from there, brackets looks great too

these are great, yet another fabbing mod to do to the car while its apart. Im sure its a world of difference, great pics too

good call cinder i should have mentioned that too, i have abs but its disabled so i should be ok correct? Or do i need to remove it?

good stuff arrowhead, i think ill flush my system too since its all new except the hardlines, and ill get some DOT5 for it

yeah i surely had to massage the line to get it in :) Very glad i did it while the engine is out. Cant wait to drive the car with all the brake upgrades it got

put the 3g booster and master in last night , i dont even know how you could do it with the engine and manifold in the car, it was a bit tight with me standing in the engine bay!!!!!

unless your pulling it apart and doing new bearing i would leave the bottom end alone

the plug is where the gauge will go, and id get a liquid filled gauge for this application, not just any old gauge

man you got lucky, eliminate that thing now

so im gettin ready to get the 3g master and BB since my engine is out its easy to swap in, should i grab a 95 prop valve too then??

I'd leave well enuff alone. I'm sure they outperform stock brakes as they are and the look better

I towing up to 15k with my cummins and run eBay drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic autozone pads and have no issues with the rotors. I actually had a rear brake line close up and had to tow a 10k lb load with just front brakes across a few states and I could see blue on the rotors from...

^^^^ as he said exactly, a track car i would certainly spend the bucks but for the other 99% of us on the street, those ebay rotors are just fine. And to any that oppose have you run these and had a problem? If not then how do you know they are any worse that what you do run?

ive had good luck with the brakemotive and brakelabs stuff on my cars as well as 3/4 ton diesel truck

looks great, i have a metal/leather momo knob and the heat isnt that bad its the cold in the winter that sucks

15 shipped off ebay as well

make it out of copper, adds weight and a better heat sink if needed that way

i'd header wrap it all good regardless of what else you do, it makes a world of difference, otherwise looks good. I plan to do an hx35 to mine at some point too

i have used clayton racing engines in bartlett for all my fbody builds and wouldnt think twice about them for the dsm

WOW, unreal the things you come across, my car had a piece of cardboard holding the battery in when i got it !!!

great deal, sounds like its ready to rock outta the box. I got my gsx for 3k but had to dump 1k or so into it to get it up the par and now it just crapped a rod so im swapping a new 6 bolt in, fun fun. get some pictures up when you get a chance

OEM gasket work well, i have had good luck with felpro's too. if you plan to boost it later on an MLS headgasket would be a good thing to do as well as head studs. As for timing belt, if you wanna spend some coin the blue gates belts are nice but the oem ones work just as good IMO . plugs and...

previous owner of my car said the turbo was bad since it didnt make boost, had a pinch in the boost gauge line !!!! thing pulled like a freight train

the 7 is the way to go not the 6 like the above post says

i'd do everything i could before i replace the clutch, it would suck to get it apart and find a good clutch

spend the money and buy the good one, especially if you broke a stock one, why cheap out and put another stock one on

check for power at the starter and jump the starter, if it doesnt do anything pull it out and have it tested at autozone or somewhere to verfy its good and go from there.

with the write ups on here and and a service manual you could easily do it yourself, they arent rocket science by anymeans. but you might try looking in the regional forums and see if someone local could help.

i prefer heavy wall stainless tube for undercar fuel lines, then swap to stainless braid to go the the filter and rail, bullet proof setup, and i get the line and comp fittings free :)

buy an oem one too, they last longer

wonder if they'd clear evo brakes???

that 20g is posted here as well with manifold for 650, its a real MHI that ready to go , thats a good price. id sell my 16g and get it if i could, or trade him but hes goin bigger not smaller sadlyhx35 on my truck will more than likely be my upgrade when my truck gets a new turbo, they are a...

sell the evo 8 turbo and go wih a common t3 manifold and turbo setup, def not worth the hassle to make the evo 8 turbo work. If it was youd see alot of people using them

flyin evo 2ning

saw a MHI 20g the other day for 600 obo with 02 housing and lines on it, i can find the link if your interested. i plan to switch from my 16g to an hx35 here in the future when my truck gets a new turbo

mine are but on a white 2gb

buy it back, it shouldnt have a salvage title either, unless you let them keep it and it goes to auction then it will get a salvage title. wouldnt be bad to fix

NGK all the way

300 tops, there are other deals out there

if the pcv lines are still there some oil will be on the intake side, if the car is a stick it could be the throwout bearing going but normally you feel that in the clutch pedal too. you need to add the supporting mods to run a bigger turbo efficiently, a 14b might be a better choice if the car...

my pcv and valve cover to intake tube hoses are hooked up and i burn oil on heavy decel only, thinking im sucking past turbo seals, no smoke noteicable when normal driving, but like a hard to moderate 2nd gear decel and i end up is a light cloud of oil smoke when i stop, then it burns off and...

do it, 93 cobras are rare and def worth more than the dsm

go 17's and do the evo brakes and be done with it

plugs are easy and cheap id start with that

i got rotors and pads from ebay, drilled n slotted, with ceramic pads from a place in chicago, fast shipping and cost was around 100 bucks for front and 100 for rear

i hope that tpi turd is only for getting it mocked up. no its not an lt1, tpi was before lt1 came out. hopefully your going with an lsx for it

80 shipped on ebay, cant go wrong

welcome, post up some pics of the beast. as for the problem, you could change fluid and filter in the trans and it might take care of the issue. how does it drive?

^^^ exactly, i wouldnt mess with a tweaked frame, put the good stuff onto the gst and sell the rest