Any engine can crank walk. Most 4g63 engines that were going to already have. The 420a in stock form won't handle much power. The compression is too high, you might squeeze out stock gst hp out of it without blowing it first pull. Chances are it wwon't last long either way. Now, with a properly...
Bad or too small of a ground is what immediately came to mind when I saw this. It should have a ground from negative post to firewall, negative post to bell housing, and intake manifold to firewall. Check to verify if these are still there, and if so, if they're in good condition, I.e. not burnt
Try hooking that ground back up. I'm no expert, but it could be the ground for the heater circuit in the o2 sensor. The sensor itself has its own ecu ground. If that doesn't work, it could be a faulty sensor
And really, a 20g wheel with the tdo5h turbine isn't going to be a jump big enough to warrant buying it. You'll still be limited by that turbine. Jump up to a tdo6 variant at the very least. That e316g wheel is already enough to overrun its turbine.
You have to use the turbo mas. Mine did the exact same thing. My stock mas had been hacked, so I decided to use one of the nt mas' I had. I had to swap back to get it to run right.
You have to modify the 7 bolt mount bracket to fit past the water pump. But I'd stay away from JDM engine importers. You can usually find low mileage built engines for less than what they want for a stock engine in unknown condition.
Just a silly question, but covering all bases here. When the turbo swap was done, you did use the turbo fuel pump, mas, ecu, and injector resistor pack, correct?
DO NOT lay the head deck down on any hard surface, including wood. I usually use a doubled over towel. The valves protrude from the deck surface, and can bend very easily. I know from personal bad experience laying one on a wood table.
If I'm not mistaken, it was the thrust bearing surface on the main, that some 95-96 7 bolts had a defective casting. What got the whole 7 bolt crank walking taboo started. I had a 351w in an f150 with an auto trans that walked. Had almost an 1/8th" of thrustplay. Point is, most 7 bolts that were...
Boost, if you vent, the trouble is that when at idle, you're pulling vacuum, which holds the bov open, which in turn allows unmetered air to be pulled, throwing your mas readings off. My 1g wouldn't even hold idle uncirculated.
Kelt and Chris, you've heard it before and I'll say it too. You both are knowledgeable and respected members here, so please stop bickering and making yourselves out to be immature in a public thread. You're both great guys, just need to learn to get along...An hy35 is not a laggy turbo by any...
You can look into sleeving the block. It might be reasonable *if* you have a friend capable of it. Then you can use factory turbo rods and pistons, like mine is. This will help strengthen the block as well. As for the PTT pistons, I would shy away from that. The info on it is sketchy at best...
That is too vague. It depends on the turbo, cams, exhaust Mani, exhaust pipe used, etc. Shat you want to avoid is high exhaust pressure and temp, which increases knock. For example, my car moved the same amount of air at 25 psi as it did at 20. Why? Because my exhaust was too restrictive and I...
Higher torque increases shock load to your drive train. High cylinder pressure and knock can kill the engine. Don't worry so much about numbers. When you tune, watch for knock and exhaust temps/pressure to be sure the engine is running at a safe limit. Some people can and have made serious power...
Yea I got it figured out. Bad mas, and the tbody gasket was on wrong, causing it to leak past the biss. Couldn't get any idle control. This car has been a motherfff. Bought it in pieces, but I drove it for the first time tonight
A leaking throttle body seal for sure. I can completely close off the throttle body and it still runs with the maf unplugged, but not idled so high. I think this is my problemOK I had a leak but its fixed. It still will not run with the maf plugged in. Any ideas?
Here's the deal. I just rebuilt the engine in my 90 laser, and it won't idle. If I continually blip the throttle, it will halfway run. If I unplug the maf, it will start right up, but idles around 3k or more. The tach doesn't work so I'm not sure. I'm leaning forwards an intake manifold leak...
It could be done but you would need a 2g engine harness, and would have to do some wiring to adapt the harness to the chassis harness. A 2g maf swap is easy, but you will need at least 550 cc injectors and an AFC, and a 2g maf plug or power transistor plug
I agree ^^. Being that you're on a budget, find a rebuilt head or have yours rebuilt, get an OEM timing set and water pump, hg set, and either ARP studs or new OEM bolts, and put it back together.
A 2g has roll stop mounts bolted to the trans whereas the roll stops mount to the engine in a 1g. A 1g trans cannot be used in a 2g without a custom mount bracket. However, a first gen engine can be used in a 2g, though the driver side engine mount bracket must be used, and only three bell...
If using a 63 head, the comp ratio will be close to 11:1, so without a tune, it won't run right. And you won't be able to turbo it. Plus you will need a 94 gallant 2.4 dohc tbelt. To turbo it, you need the 64/63 hybrid pistons, or the sohc 4g64 head. Either way, you need engine management.
Assuming yours are bad, you need 6 bolt rods. 7 bolts are narrower at the big end, which will allow the rod to walk along the crank pin. And to use a 2g piston on a 6 bolt rod, it'll require at least $200 in machine work to bore the wrist pin holes out. NPR pistons new are $100.
Well with fwd, you only have so many options. A lot does come down to the driver. But a lot of guys on here, ive noticed, shoot for HP goals and forget that all that power has to go somewhere. Landspeed is a good one to talk to about high power fwd cars
Brother, I can't tell from a pic, but if its on the hot side, you've probable got a valve cover, oil feed, or return line leak. Fix it once you get your hg changed
In my experience, the laggier turbo will light off harder, higher in the rpm range, and the wheel spin and torque steer is more violent. This comes from having a car that's not properly set up for more power. This is a problem with most dsmers lol.
Just wanted to clear up some misinfo. Recirculating doesn't effect spool time because while the gate is closed, the turbo spools. And there will be mo4e exhaust pressure on the inlet side than the exhaust side. It can effect having issues with boost creep, but with a proper WG setup, this should...