I can't speak for the 96-99 but I know everything was directly interchangeable from my old 2g and my 94 galant.

I think older cars that are still in decent shape in general are starting to get more attention. Every single time I take out my swapped 89 colt 1 or 2 people stop to talk to me about it and tell me how cool they think it is. It's crazy because 10 years ago noone would look twice at this thing lol.

I know someone already mentioned it but when I was in the same boat I reached out to Morrison and they built me a nice one using the TiAL flange. Been using it for a couple years now. I'm sure they could build one to match up to your vband exhaust if you asked.

Yeah placement is the same 1g/2g. The fan next to it is the main radiator fan for both generations.

If I'm not mistaken, the KM210 comes from the 89 colt/mirage GT cars. Strength wouldn't be an issue but the gear ratios are really short in that transmission.

I used the Linear wideband option and plugged in the voltages straight from the instruction sheet. Logs very accurately in my car like this.

Thanks man! Wanted to make sure whatever digital gauge I ordered could be logged before I pulled the trigger.

Can anyone confirm if you can log an AEM boost gauge from the EGR input on the 1g ECU? I'm not running speed density so it's the only input I have left since I'm using the front o2 for narrowband simulation. ECMLink says this input does not work with the AEM Widebands so I'm not sure if it'll...

Did you happen to do any IAT logging before and after?

What's the details on the rest of your setup? If you suspect a fuel pump issue might be best to pull the trigger on a new Walbro and rewire while youre in there considering that Supra pump is probably very old.

No unfortunately that's the only under car picture I took of it. The rest of my exhaust is a punishment 3" downpipe, a manual cutout in place of the cat, and this eBay catback bolted to that. It's holding up fantastic, hasn't rusted or anything (yet), all the hangers lined right up with the...

You can. I did for years in my 90. Just make sure you swap the 2 pins on your harness (can't remember them off the top of my head). Everything will work as normal except your tach. It'll work fine till you floor it it, then it'll just drop to 0. There are work arounds to make your tach work...

You can buy a nice kit off Amazon that replaces all the coolant hoses under your hood. Everything fits great as well. Don't take my word for them as far as longevity goes though, I've only been using the kit on my car for a month...

How old is the hose? Old hoses will get soft and swell once the system is pressurized and eventually blow. May be time to replace both upper and lower for good measure.

I bought the $120 catback you can find on eBay a few years ago for my 90 GSX. Did not require any modification at all, bolted right up. Does not have a raspy tone, but does have some cabin drone. I also liked the angle the muffler exits the rear. If I were to buy a name brand exhaust I would go...

First DSM I saw when I started working out on the road was in Texas, being loaded on a flat bed on the side of the road. Lol

Solved! I replaced that rubber section that was pinched off with some 5/16" line I flared, rewired the fuel pump (NOT fun on a CSM btw), cleaned up the hanger and replaced the Walbro sock with a spare I had, and threw it all back together tonight and went out and did a pull without changing any...

Everything Ive read is that to simplify things you want your wideband to keep reading as if you're running regular gas. I'm working on dropping this tank now, will update when I find something out.UPDATE Well I think I'm on the right track! The rubber line right off the hanger for the feed is...

When I follow the equation on ECMLink for E85 this is the global I get.

Little update. I swapped my good regulator off my GSX and the issue persists so I can rule that out. I know the 11.7 is pretty rich as far as E85 goes but I'm using that table as a good starting point to get everything in line before I start really tuning. I'm thinking I'm going to drop the tank...

Brand new. Less than 200 miles on it.

Don't have a boost gauge currently but I assume 10-11psi is the wastegate like on most 16gs with some creep I imagine. AFRs start off good in the mid 12s but just go leaner from there. Especially 4500rpm+. If you're able to look at my attached log in the original post you can see my wideband...

Global is at -19.9%. deadtime is 420. I raised fuel pressure to 43.5psi today with no changes to the issue.

Was suspicious of a fuel pressure issue. Thanks for the ideas guys. I'm going to swap the know working regulator off my GSX and see if anything changes to rule that out. Hoping it's as simple as a regulator needing a new diaphram. Will also up my fuel pressure to 43.5psi while I'm in there and...

If you look at my log, I start running lean long before my duty cycles even reach 60%. My airflow is even misreading terribly, you can see that because I start to show close to 50lb/m near the end of the pull which is not correct at all. I keep raising MAFComp to try and combat this lean tune...

I'll turn up my base pressure tomorrow but I still have a feeling I'm not running out of injector on 16g wastegate pressure and whatever creep comes with it is giving me.

I understand what you're saying but I've got another issue here. 880's are plenty of fuel for a 16g on E85 on wastegate pressure. My airflow is off because I've kept raising the MAFcomp but even before, my duty cycles were in the low 70's so that's not what I'm looking at here.

The car I'm working on is an 89 Mirage running on E85. PTE 880cc injectors, Walbro 255 pump, and Aeromotive regulator. Fuel pressure set to 37psi. It's on a 16g on wastegate pressure currently. Don't have a boost gauge in it yet but since I just wired in my wideband I figured I could start...

From the looks of it, that's not a 20g turbo. Probably a pte 50 trim variant but it's hard to tell from those pics.

Pump is not rewired and yeah I'll pull the pump today after work and check it out. Might upgrade and replace anyways for peace of mind.

I noticed it did this on me last year as well. When I was driving to the shootout about 3 hours in the drive. Once the car sat overnight it was back to normal the next day.

So today I was out doing some pulls tuning my car. It was about 90 degrees out and I had a tad over 1/4 tank. Well I first started at 22psi and had a afr around 11-11.3 to redding every pull but I couldn't get rid of knock unless I took my timing down further than I wanted. As each pull went one...

Although the Treadwear rating is low, I put a set of Nitro Nt05's on my gsx that flows 40lbs/min and they tires hook like no other street tire I've had on launches. 5250rpm launches on the street and no spinning.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but didn't the power stroke turbos spin in reverse rotation making them unusable on our engines?

I wasn't aware of this. But don't you need to have the vehicle in learn mode so that the ISC centers itself? Just trying to understand.

UPDATE: Got a new throttle body, isc sensor, and tps sensor from throttlebodys.com. Made sure to adjust my tps correctly. Did a good BLT and fixed every leak. Car still won't idle correctly in learn mode to set the BISS. What to check next?

So here recently I lost the head on my dsm. So I bought a used head off my buddy and ran it but noticed the valve seals were leaking bad. Verified by pulling the exhaust manifold and had large amounts of oil in the ports. So I replaced the seals with Vito std size seals. Checked for play in the...

Recently I've been having trouble with the car stalling when coming to a stop. I looked at others peoples threads and they all said I need to adjust the BISS screw. So I went into ECMLink with the car up to temp and idling fine but everytime I ground the timing and diagnostic pin together the...

I'm actually going to say look into a 50 trim. It'll get you to your goal easy on pump gas. I use to own a 2g fwd and it was a blast to drive with a 50 trim. Like others have said if you're looking to make that power to the wheels it might be tough with a 16g on pump gas.

I've used those exedy replacements in 2 different DSM's I've had. Both still going 20-30k miles later. Either way clean 1g man!

I'd be interested in getting a set of these.

I've never liked the off boost power in any of my DSM's. Too heavy of cars for the response they have out of boost.

I've ran the cheap boost gauges and controllers and although they work fine, I hated looking at them. I use a Hallman pro mbc now because it looks and feels quality, and I like being able to just turn it without that locknut design. As for gauges I'm using AEM for pretty much everything. They...

They are for an oil cooler. I just looped them myself. Saw no ill effects. Engine still runs and takes beatings everyday.

I've always had the most luck hammering the knuckle where the balljoint comes up through. Not the balljoint or the control arms ittself.

So I've been fighting an issue with this 90 GSX running super rich ever since I got it. I bought the car completely stock and so far what I've done is Drop Engineering mounts, FP manifold, rebuilt small 16g, PR 2.5-3" o2 housing, PR 3" downpipe to a 3" cutout, and an AEM Wideband. I've done...

I've got a stock 1g awd downpipe and cat both in great shape for sale if you need it.

It's really a shame to find such a clean build that someone put so much hard work into thrown away by the demands of a girlfriend. But I wish you the best of luck.

Definitly sounds like the timing area. Possibly under the valve cover.Update: I pulled the valve cover and found out my baffle is extremely loose. Could this be the cause of the sound?