Looking at a set of wheels that are 16*8 with a -19 offset. Will they work or are they going to stick out way to far. I don't mind 1"- 1.5" of poke, as I may get flares, but I don't want to run into clearance issues.
Not yet cam seals in morning, torque gears and time. Oil / coolant change. She should be fine though.This is a little better resolution of it. Looks awesome in person.
Enough to be worried about. At first was small puddle on floor below thermostat housing. (Forgot to put silicone sealant). Second run was spraying from edges of housingTy bro I'm almost certain there is a leak back there too. Thanks for checking
They do offer them but as you said very limited and not really the greatest. Everyone has said us MLSHe only mills. Also the finish was a milled finish
I just replaced head gasket and everything is running fairly good, but I'm noticing Sludge (oil in coolant). Did the head gasket not seat right? I double checked it was flat when I put head in before torquing. (And followed toque procedure from 2gnt). Does the gasket need time to form/seal?
Hey guys replaced my head and timed. Got the car to fire up, after shutting off the car to check a couple things car is drawing power but not sending it to the starter. The head unit cuts off, the srs and oil light kick off until key released. Battery is fully charged. Any ideas? 420a
Thanks grave I just had it fully charged at AUTOZONE and tested, took 1hr, alternator is brand new as well.Also starter was replaced the original one failed out.
Ok guys, I just reassembled the top end and timed my car. I turned her over and she fired up just fine. When I went to fire up a second time, after checking timing marks again, and nothing. Lights dim radio kicks off until I release key. I also noticed my blue tooth obd2 reader isn't getting...
I'm only asking cause my OEM pulley had a piece chipped off. Also if there is a pulley that just has alternator grooves because I eliminated A/C and P/S
Hey I was wondering what brands people are running for an Underdrive pulley. Also is been difficult to find a 420a one, ones I have found state for 2.0 SOHC neon. I know the lower ends are the same so is this piece able to be used, or are there interference issues with the frame?
The only way I got around with it was running it loose to release pressure through the cap. Then it stay at like 190°-204°.Also removed thermostat to see if it would help, nothing. I'm running a single sided radiator dual core, my first motor had no issue staying cool with the setup so I know...
Just got water pump, timing belt, tensioner, and pullies replaced. The car car did good for a little bit. Back to overheating. My first few pulls stayed cool. Then noticed the overheating. It's not common over heating. It makes it to 230° and coolant is bubbling and streaming in reservoir. Blown...
I just finished dropping new motor in my car. With my motor that I blew I never had any issue like this, and didn't change anything about wiring.
while being jumped the car will fire right up and run sound, as long as jumpers are still connected. As soon as you remove one clamp the lights...
I recently dropped in "new" speed sensor, I cut the pig tail and soldered onto original harness since I have a 95 that had different pin style. My speedometer read out roughly 2x the speed I'm traveling at. Is there a specific reason why this is happening?
I'm running the 420a motor but writing is wiring. If you have DSM link if think you can remove solenoids and just do full delete, then remove from current map you have in tuning software so it doesn't look for them.
Takes a little more time but what I did was cut away all factory conduit, separated each group of sensors that lead to a spot, twisted the wiring, electrical taped them so they wouldn't untwist, reconduit with smaller size... Easier to relocate and hide. Reduced clutter by at least 50%