As he asked what is the "pop"? If its the click it should do so once I believe when the car is cranked over and once when it stops. If it's continuosly clicking from the relay it could be faulty

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/Follow that first to be sure everything is healthy!

Let's see some pictures! Don't forget to do all of the maintenance before modding, good luck man.

As I figured the old fuel pump was dead. Replaced the pump with a 255hp pump and the tank to rail kit from fuel lab and the car started right up! Now to figure out why I'm burning oil... If it isn't one thing it't another I swear.

Reflect-A-Gold as in the heat reflective gold wrapping paper?

You're likely right. I'll give it a shot this afternoon.

I figured as much. not much in the mood to drill new holes but oh well.

I may have to try that. It just doesn't make sense why i see some peoples fully covered by the 2gb cover and others where they look just like mine. Could this be due to bumper sag?

Yeah as long as the Gray dull tone is gone I can live with it.

I mounted mine in the exact factory holes the kit specifies. I couldn't mount it in a wrong hole.. Unless I'm missing something blatantly obvious haha

It's the intake tube. Sorry I was just referencing every write up I found was actually for intake manifolds and not the intake tube.

Yeah if you wouldn't mind!

I guess I may give that a shot then.. Or possibly refinish in black as I'm going for black and polished look in the bay. Thanks.Would you mind showing me how well yours came back to?

This intake came with the car but it looks to have seen better days. Its no longer polished and is instead extremely pitted and dull gray. Does anyone have any tips on how to refinish it? I've searched a bit and it seemed to only pull up people refinishing their intake manifolds and aren't bring...

I was curious if anyone else has run into this issue with the VRSF kit as I know plenty of people are running it. My issue is my bumper cover doesn't fully cover the lower portion of my intercooler. A bit of an OCD thing but would like it to be fully covered.Appreciate any feedback, Thanks

I'll have to figure it out because it wasn't doing this until I fixed the mounting point behind the headlight and now i'm back at square one trying to make it not bind.

No fuel to the rail or even filter so I can only assume its the fuel pump has died. I will be checking voltage tomorrow. If it appears bad I will be replacing with a 255 Walbro pump and Fuel Lab "818" tank to rail kit as the lines have been bent horribly by the previous owner(s).

I would also add based on how much your're willing to drive to score some wheels craigslist searching a few hundred miles out of your area will probably score you some evo Enkeis or BBS wheels. I found my Evo IX wheels for 450 with tires. Good Luck

I was chasing a no start issue and I'm willing to bet it's just your CPS that needs replacing.

That's actually what leads me to believe its the fuel pump. It seems everything is going through its paces but wasn't getting fuel as soon as carb cleaner/starter fluid was tried it started for a few seconds and dies. So my electrical components (fuses,relays,wiring is good) which leaves...

I realized I had some carb cleaner and gave it a shot and sure enough it started for a brief few seconds and dies. I'm only guessing/assuming as I haven't tested the Fuel Pump but this clearly points to either filter injectors or pump, correct?

If you're replacing all gaskets and lines you'll need both coolant lines, oil feed and drain, gaskets and some Mitsubishi gasket maker, copper washers, o2 housing gasket and a turbo to manifold gasket. www.ExtremePSI.com and www.jnztuning.com should carry everything you need.

Alright so as follows.. I replaced the MPI fuse even though the old fuse was fine. Spark is good as well and when checking for fuel it appears the fuel at the rail wasn't pressurized. When I removed the feed line fuel slowly poured out and not much at all... So we look down and the line at the...

Will do!I gave it a visual and it didn't appear to be blown. I could possibly test it though.

Yeah the plan is to check spark, fuel system starting at the pump and fuses. Fingers crossed here. I wasn't sure how the relay was supposed to function so i figured id ask. I am at a loss for words how it ran fine and now doesn't even attempt to turn over. It'll just crank until the battery dies.

My car was up and running two weeks ago. I let it sit and the battery died, no big deal. Well after getting the battery charged to around 14.8 volts(according to the charging unit) I now am having a no start issue. Is the MFI Relay suppose to click once as I attempt to start it and once when...

i'll have to check. its irritating as it broke a few tabs on my side skirt

When I originally bought my car this wasn't an issue. I have adjusted my fender multiple times only to have it not change hardly at all. Any suggestions? Is the door sagging issue common with the 1G's something that could be an issue here?

Yeah I skipped the last line entirely hahah sorry about that. How about a BLT? it could be a pretty large boost leak as well.

Is your BOV recirculated? Not being recirculated can cause this problem as the air leaving the system is being monitored.

Ah so it was just different terminology. I guess i'll be in touch with Jay. If you don't mind me asking where did you source your DG components?

Awesome to hear! What bushings are you referring to?Yeah getting the Konis grooved isn't a problem. my main concern is that does Ground Control supply the correct spring perch or would new ones need boughten? That or I could look into the DG setup.

How was the pricing on the Jay Racing Hats and are they still made? Also what are you using for your spring perch? That part doesn't seem covered very well in peoples write ups or I'm going blind:ohdamn:

I'm planning on light to moderate track days and its evident on this site that the Koni/Ground Control set-up is ideal for my price range. I've seen people have been having a hard time finding spherical top hats and was curious if anyone has used the RTM units and if they will work correctly...

+1 for everything said so far and I would get a decent sound bar or stereo for sure. Always helps to have some music!

I'm in for some updates as well! This is exactly the kind of use my gsx will be getting.

See this question is still soley dependent on the offset they run. The higher the offset the more the wheel will be in towards the wheel well itself. What you would need to do is measure 25mm from your hub to understand where it will be located. Since you have a 40 offset wheel(I'm assuming +...

These appear to be off of a Mazda RX8.

Also have you done a dash removal/swap or anything of the nature where a connector could possibly have been missed?

For the fronts you could do one of two things. 1. Lightly grind the brake caliper until there isn't any rubbing 2. Run a spacer for the needed room. At this point though both of your wheels will stick out. I honestly thing you would have better luck just getting a different set of wheels.

all EDM spec 2g's that came non-turbo have a n/a 4g63. I do believe the differences are compression, oil squirters, ecu. It should be fairly straight forward actually.

Did you ever get a chance to diagnose anything?

no problem. If you want dual piston you could simple switch to GSX calipers. I'm sure just by checking for part outs you'd find something. But I agree what is the use for the said brakes.. be it street, strip, track?

You always have the outlander option as well..http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/05-06-outlander-bigger-brake-upgrade.428973/

Thanks man. I was really debating POR15 but was seeing mixed reviews as some was saying they were having issues with flaking right off. Ill attach photos after work tonight so you all can see what im talking about

Alright well like my title states I'm looking for peoples opinions on tackling rust(surface rust areas). The interior of the car on the drivers side does seem to have a good bit of surface rust but taking a blade to it and scratching easily showed bare metal. I have this same issue with a good...

I agree with Guseclipse. With it being a custom harness I would rule that out before anything else. Wiring can be a nightmare and a stock harness could eliminate a big issue(s)

Honestly, if the car holds any sentimental value to you at all and have the means to properly store it ex. garage, car park, or even a car cover that you keep it. The worst case is later down the line if the motivation is lost it can just be sold. OR if the motivation and the timing is available...

Awesome to see this car fly like that. Really looking forward to seeing you run at MIR this coming weekend!

I've been sitting around thinking of some but so many have been mentioned! how about " 2SLW2GO"