Right here buddy. Glad the info helped. You still dont got her firing though?

Ok, I've got a 96 Eclipse GST. It's running a S16G, evo 8 560cc injectors, Walbro 255, Fuel lab FPR, GReddy 3" catback, GReddy hard upper and lower SMIC piping and a GReddy type S bov. My question is, while I know its not recommended to raise base fuel pressure to make your injectors flow more...

Me to but just figured I'd see lol.

I know this is old as hell but are you still looking? I live 45 minutes from you and have an extra ecu.

Why would you have just snipped wires when doing a job such as this? Just makes more work for yourself than what you had to do in the first place.

I do sometimes have an issue with the clutch pedal staying to the floor. I thought it was crankwalk whenever I investigated but it doesn't happen while I'm turning. it only happens when I run it to a high rpm in a straight line. sound like a pressure plate issue?

Again, the wheels are not spinning when this bouncing occurs. I'm not getting on the car hard. just a normal pull off the line. slow, and easy. my front drivers side strut is bad but the bouncing occurs on the passenger side front. My only thoughts are left with the clutch having a problem...

Anyone think this could be the clutch slipping?

I expected feedback not dickish comments like your statements. for real I was asking a legitimate question about something I know has been done before so that's why I didn't ask if it Will work. I made my question more specific to my desires. now I realize more lag is something I would have to...

Just wondering how this would work. thinking about trying as I have two smic already and like the fact that side mounts are out of sight. I would want to do one on each side with custom piping. Would this be beneficial?

But the wheels aren't spinning when this happens

That's a good thing I guess, but what's weird is the car is all stock except for a greddy type s bov, and a greddy 3" catback exhaust. so shouldn't the factory suspension and motor mounts suffice? I'm really ticked that I can't figure out what's causing it.

Agreed. I'm an acoustical engineer by trade, (high end subwoofer enclosures), so I can really appreciate great attention to detail in something like that. The bar is beautiful.

Checked them and they were fine and bolts tight. my front struts do seem to be bad, but could that really cause the bouncing? Also, it only does it on a dead stop take off. and only as I'm coming off the clutch during that take off. I was thinking clutch problem but it only does it at takeoff so...

Problem started a while back, thought it was a hub and replaced it, (the hub was bad but didn't fix the problem. What happens is, from a dead stop when I take off I get a lot of bouncing on the front passenger side. I'm lost, I have no clue what it could be now. anyone ever had this problem?

Can you recommend any brand injectors? Also what's the best efi management to use? (Most user friendly interface)

I'm sorry I forgot to mention the car has a 3" greddy cat back exhaust already. I'm assuming that should be sufficient for my hp goals. also, are my hp goals hard to achieve?

I just want to make decent street HP. I want quick spooling of course and a decent street turbo, not looking to make loads of HP so im sure I wont have to do much in terms of supporting mods. Im looking for 300HP MAX. Nothing extreme just enough to say hey my car isnt factory and it shows. And...

Ok now that I've got the car back running I'm about to start my upgrades. I plan on starting with a new turbo first and want something very efficient. keep in mind I plan on installing new more bigger cams later. Also plan on a few more mods. right now the car is all stock except for a greddy...

Replaced the transistor pack and the car fired up no problem. idles smooth and runs great. now to put it all back together and take it for a real reset drive :)

Well tested the power transistor and it tested out bad so going to replace it tomorrow. will keep you guys posted. lets hope it works.

Ok I retimed and its spot on. still have fuel, still have no spark. Crank and cam sensors are new. so I've narrowed it to the ignition power transistor. I don't have any way to replace with a temp to check so is there a way to test this thing? If so how do I do it?

No cels. pulled it back apart and checked timing again. noticed that the exhaust cam was about 1/2 tooth off so I figured I would retime it.

Will check first thing in the morning. any other suggestions? battery is on trickle charge now. will leave it overnight and try again, although it didn't seem to have any trouble spinning the engine over.Ok I have fuel but no spark. any suggestions before I re-time this thing?

Ok I got the GST put back together, and Cranked it to let it warm up, It ran for a few minutes (roughly 10) and then shut down on its own. Its late now and im through fooling with it for the day, but just wondering if anyone had any suggestions for me to check besides fuel and spark (which are...

Lol your awesome. I figured someone would have known lol thanks man.

Ok awesome then this will serve its purpose this afternoon when I get home. thanks for the quick response. I had found this pic on Google images but was unsure about it because I thought the 95 & 96 models were a little different than the rest, but since glitz the same then I'm good 2 go lol...

Isn't the vacuum routing different on the 97 models compared to the 96 models?

I need a good vacuum line routing description or diagram of some sorts. got the head back from the machine shop and in good shape so I'm putting it together and a few vacuum lines fell apart. so I have 8 feet of vacuum lines that I'm gonna replace them all with. just need to know what runs to...

Can the same results be obtained by using regular thin weight oil, like 5w30?

I did find the reason for no spark. The camshaft position sensor was cracked in half. Replaced it and got spark. Pulled the head to inspect why cylinder 4 wont hold any compression. Short of blown head gasket and bent valves, of which i had neither, the only thing i could think of causing...

Pulled the head today and all looks good. Bevore i pulled the head i checked for fuel and spark. Got fuel, no spark. Pulled the head anyways and like stated all looked great. I wanna be certain its not a problem with rings now so how can i go about checking the rings? When i pulled the head off...

Ok ill pick some up. Any word on what the crank sensor triggers off of yet? The only thing i can think of is the metal plate behind the crank timing gear, but im not sure.

Will spraying the degreaser off with water harm anything? Also which degreaser are you familiar with using? never tried any canned degreaser, only puple power and greased lightnening. which both work good but arent the foaming kind.

im pretty sure i can handle checking it but just for S**** and Giggles, run it by me again. spark is just pull the plug wire with a plug on it and crank it while watching the gap on the plug for spark, fuel is what i might need refreshing on. also whatsa good way for me to clean the engine of...

here is my timing marks. Yes i know i know its filthy. I'm working on cleaning her up right now. They look right to me though. What do you guys think?

You know i didnt even think of a bad lifter but your right. Might be an issue lol. Im otw home now. When i get home ill pull the head after i quadruple check the timing marks. Whats an estimate for a valve job and pressure check and deck? Last time i had head work done was,just a check and deck...

Thats what i racked my brain on all night and i could only come up with, they cant be bent. And 100 did seem sufficient for starting her up i would have thought. Hell the 420a runs a lot higher compression and i got that bi*** to fire up with 65 across the board. Although it ran like crap...

That is my next step tomorrow along with removing the head. Im assuming its a pita to get the head off this thing compared to the 420a? Im very familiar with the n/t platform and it is quite easy for me to work on, but the turbo platform is breaking new grounds for me.

did a compression test. Results arent suprising. Cylinder 1 - 190, 2 - 165, 3 - 165, 4 - 100 and cylinder 4 would leak down to 0 once we stopped cranking the car. So obivously I have some internal damage either to the head or a piston. Most likely bent valves. My next question is does anyone...

thanks for the info. the nicks are new, i thoroughly inspected the timing belt when i got the car. The balance shaft belt is broken, which im assuming is what caused the nicks in the belt. As stated previously they are on the motor side of the belt which is where the balance shaft belt rides...

can you guy post some links to everything i would need to do a timing component change on this car? I wanna change everything thats in that kit out and also the hydraulic tensioner as well.

Ive Already rented the tester, but because as I feared the balance shaft belt had broken, was wrapped around the timing belt, and upon doing a compression test would have most likely caused the timing belt to completely fail, causing damage to the engine. Before I did ANYTHING to the engine, I...

Just wanted to let you know, im slowly but surely working on it. I havent made much progress though. Ive felt like crap the past couple days. Caught some kind of bug. I do however have only the crank pulley and bottom part of the timing cover left to take off before i reveal the timing...

Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http:/w if the BS belt failed). If not boost leak test, compression test.Is it required that you pull the engine to do a timing belt on this car? It looks relatively easy...

Well to check all timing marks i will have to remove the timing cover. When i do that ill know for certain whether the belt failed or not. I just priced both timing and balance shaft belts and together they are cheaper than just the timing belt for a 420a. Thank god!!!! Lol its raining today and...

Yeah but a loose ic pipe wouldnt cause it to not start would it? And that also doesnt explain the small rough spots on the motor side of the timing belt. My best guess is going to be balance shaft belt failure. but my concern now is with my valves. If my timing belt is still intact and turns...

Ok well in the event it has skipped due to balance shaft belt failure. Is it better to do a bse or just replace the belt?

well like i said the timing belt is intact and has proper tension. Think maybe the balance ahaft belt could still have failed? And if so will the balance shaft belt failure cause it to not run?

If the balance shaft belt failed it would definately cause the timing belt to fail right?