Thanks man already was planning on getting a wideband along with a turbo timer to get the most life out of my turbo. The car did come with a few mods on already GM map sensor ported and polished intake and 16g turbo. Not sure where to go from here besides basic tuning after I do wanna try and...
I would remove the starter and take it to autozone and have them do a load test on it and see if the starter itself engages. Check your leads on the starter itself to make sure there's no play maybe something came loose. I had the same issue a few weeks back no crank but push started fine...
Just out of curiosity would it have anything to do with my exhaust? I put it on at the same time and I found out the exhaust was half way gutted. When I accelerate it jerks until I work my way down on the pedal and it evens out for a little. Once I start hitting over 3500 rpms it vibrates as if...
The other night I realized I had a leak coming from my transmission so last night I attempted to fix it. It ended up being my passenger side seal which I fixed and added 1 1/2 quarts of gear oil yea it was that low. Also did an oil change new coolant and fixed the spark plug wires since the guy...
so I'm not new to the site but I am new to turbo platforms. Found a good 1g Plymouth laser turbo stock for a steal. This is my first turbo car so any inputs recommendations or advice you guys have im all ears! Thanks for reading!
crank should be good i just replaced it a day ago. No CEL on and i connected a scanner just to see if any codes were in the memory bank but it wont even communicate with the ecu
OK here goes another no start issue! I was at my job(AutoZone) listening to my radio with the key on on aux. After a few minutes i started the car (its a manual) and put it in reverse. In the middle of me backing up the car just stalled out without me letting off the clutch. When i tried...
i would just replace the valve cover gasket and the exhaust gasket at the sametime since they both are about 50$ together. the valve cover gasket just needs a small amount of rtv to keep it from falling over when u put the cover on. See if this fixes your problem. I would also pop your hood in...
what your looking for was my original set up just 6.5s in the front 6.9s in the back with a 1k amp pushing them but they didnt sound great even though they were decent speakers. I just tore apart the door panels and made custom brackets in the door panels for 2 audiopipe 8inch and tweeters. Same...
if its doing it in 4th or 5th gears most likely its the vibration from the cv axles. Its usually noticiable once your car hits high speeds no matter what gear its in. Also would clunk or rattle if they are pretty bad when you go over bumps, pot holes, etc.
glad to see some chicks are willing to spend their time holding a wrench than at the nail salon! welcome to tuners and nice ride cant wait to see some results!
^agree with glowryder. You must have some bit of knowledge if you built the bottom end up which usually people build up the head as well. Unless OP just swapped in a motor and claim its "built"
i agree. If you still want the doors itll save you the time of converting everything and you can pull out the harness out of the same car when you pull the doors, hook everything back up and wire in the harness to your fuse box.
see if you have the wiring harness in your door first that just plugs into the electric one would be. then you can just get the interior panel and harness with the motor etc and plug everything in. I was also planning on doing the swap but just by swapping out the doors and plugging the wires...
I would try and fix the leaks first and search for any other leaks you might have missed that would potentially cause high idle. Rule out the small stuff first before moving into the big stuff,tuning etc. As far as you doing your own tuning I sure hope you know exactly how to tune it and not...
Nice! i wanna see how it really turns out. Im taking pics of mine now since i saved it from a high school kid who was about to rice it :nono:
Im slowly racking up parts and should be starting my journal soon but like any other dsm'er can back me up on this money doesnt go on tree though we all...
I work for autozone so when I go back Ill see what our highest CCA battery is that will fit and let you know. (unless yourk like me and relocated the battery to the trunk with a huge battery box and the biggest battery i could find 800CCA my car hasnt failed on a cold winter yet!)
you would have to do too many modifications to make the srt4 head fit right. The intake and exhaust are reversed,fuel injectors and fuel rail are in the front and the intake piping comes out different. It would be too much of a hassle and the difference would be barely noticeable as far as...
you can shop around for batteries that have the same casing as yours with a higher CCA rating yes optima is best if you plan on running a few accessories or large sound systems. You can also swap out your battery tray to a larger one if you want to use a regular larger battery with higher CCA.
I have been doing a lot of research on set ups after deleting the EGR valve and without luck I haven't found anyone that was successful in keeping the CEL off after removing it.I was even debating on putting it back on since my car began idling rough and high rpms. After checking all vacuum...
wish i could do this but NY roads are terrible. Just went through a bumper within a yr of being here way too many potholes! . but on the upside that HD lip looks pretty good. Might just get the tools and do it when I move in a few months
Honestly speaking I like the gains on the bc272'S than the kelfords. Ive driven both cars with both cams and something about the way the BC cams idle sounds much more deep and smoother.Truth is you can go off what we can all tell you and what we prefer over the other but overall its what you...
Just to do the swap to the neon block the shop wants 900 installed!!! thats crazy. If it was warmer Id get out and hunt down the motor myself and even put it in but right now i dont have a hoist and its 10 degrees outside. Im going back to the JY today until I work something out with them since...
yea ive already had enough headaches on this build and its mostly been maintenance which sucks since i wanna start my rebuild. I know the intake and exhaust are reveres and the t-stat housing. Also the air intake is much different on the neon.
mine is a 420a and the one they sent me by the look of it and vin# its a y series which should be 2.0 dohc. I know so parts between the neon are compatible if they are both dohc but im not sure about doing a whole motor swap. Im just frustrated because I paid for a motor I just wanted to drop in...
Ok so my motor just crapped out on me since the piston rings went bad and the lifters went bad all at once. Im kind of short on cash right now so my only option was to drop a junker in there to get by with til I rebuild it. The salvage yard I got the engine from first sell me one with 160k miles...
sounds to me like a bad lifter. I just had this problem as well. At first at idle it would be a low knocking then would go away after 1300rpms but came back and low rpms. Eventually it started to get louder at high idle and the tapping got faster literally sounded like the cams were hitting my...
your can also paint your TB a nice smoke color so it looks clean but not stand out too much. I would get some new studs arp if you can afford them they help in the long run. since the head is off check your pistons and the wear on them now that you can see clearly in there and look at the condition.
i know the TOB are known to potentially fail Happened to me twice and I had a louad chattering/grinding sound before I changed it out. Eventually the syncros were bad so I got a whole new tranny. I did however put tranny fluid in first and it did ease the grinding. Try checking the fluid it...
If you really want to put the tow hook on JUST FOR LOOKS i would say run a metal plate in from the bottom and take the tow hook to a metal shop to get it bent on an angle to fit the metal and get the HONDA angle your looking for. Honestly I think its more trouble than whats its worth especially...
Thanks! Hopefully I'll have my build finished by the time i move back down to TN since NY roads such for driving a 5 spdspeed especially a lowered one. I really want to learn how and understand my car better so I'm gonna go for it
I would check the pistons you have now and check the clearance when you get the new block honed. If they match up then you should be fine AS LONG as the rings and the pistons themselves are good.if they are bad and the piston heads are resurfaceable then I would go that route if you have some...
try this: should be a quick fix for broken, snapped, or bolts that were cut off
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/448927-how-remove-bolts-broken-flush.html
could just be a bad tranny. I would first check to see if you have a transmission leak somewhere if the problem goes away then comes back. Also when you drain your fluid look for any metallic specs that could be in it from grind.
dude youve gone this far making 100$ a week? kuddos to you man Im still building mine and havent even done half as much as you and make double. I wish I knew how to rebuild or else I would do it myself but Im scared i will destroy my engine. MOst of the upgrades Ive done are cosmetic and some...
I had this problem when I had something metal in my trunk and everytime it came in contact with the chasis(which is what my amp is grounded to the piece of metal would spark or the amp would. I simply just placed a rubber carpet in the trunk to cover the trunk and fixed my problem.