Mine runs fine not bolted in don't think bolts are ground, do u have good clean battery terminals? Have u ohmed coil packs make sure there with in spec? Coolant temp sensor/ circuit?
i already removed mine couple weeks ago i switched out the cyclone intake for a stock one with a block off plate, what i meant is this cel robbing me of any performance? like is it putting my car into a safe mode or is it running normal jus saying hey your egr jus isn't functioning??
Soo my car threw a code 43(egr) but its not a Cali car clear it out and takes about a day or two and comes back on same code anybody have any thoughts on this?I did find that this may be sign of leaky caps but tthe Ecu looks brand new on inside and was supposedly recapped not too long ago
check your coolant temp sensor its the lower one on the fill neck with spade connectors one is vertical and other horizontal if this sensor is join bad/ unplugged can mess with car starting i had one that wire broke it would start and when it did it had weak spark and wouldn't rev over 4k when...
Pull the cam sensor and spin it you should hear pump kick on injectors click and cool would fire if cas is good also I come to learn recently a bad coolant temp sensor
Could do the same thing u described
put new coil pack in the ohmed with in spec still coin same thing I'm going crazy trying to get this car running :-(So I've done a new coolant temp sensor, Ecu, cas, igniter card, coil packs, plugs and still no start I'm goin crazy
car is a 1992 tsi 6bolt awd
car cranks but no fire, i have replaced the coolant temp sensor with a new one pulled the cas and spun it fuel pump kicks on all injectors work have weak yellow spark at first then no spark at all same thing with another cas , my ecu did have leaky caps but i put a...
So I guess u can call it a no start condition it will crank and crank or when it does start it only runs couple mins then dies I have spark there fuel in rail haven't been able to confirm if injectors are opening or not but I opened my Ecu to check the caps and see if it was an EPROM and I found...
turned out the walboro i tried putting in was bad i put a new pump in today and works fine, no rewire as of yet I'm planning on going to radio shack today today to get relay and wire today to do this weekend
other day i went to hop in my car and go for a ride and wouldn't start, after doing some trouble shooting i discovered the pump was not kicking on, i jumped power to the plug by battery and pump would kick on after taping top of sending unit for lil bit so i deemed the pump on its way out, i had...
My first dsm, she's a 1992 tsi bought her bone stock couple upgrades I've done so far is a full 3"exhuast, fmic, real greddy type s, gates racing belt, future mods a gm maf, maf-t, wAlboro 255, afpr, 650 injectors, and dsm link
My port P has no vac at it if the car idles and u pull the hose off it and put ## finger on it nothing but with it hooked up and driving it will read boost or 0 never pulls a vac plus the car idles like shit, is the a write up or anything to inspect throttle body for bad seals or how to...
I used the taboo diagram to route my vac lines
Now I hooked my aftermarket boost gauge up the port p on throttle
Body and get a zero reading for vac but does read boost, I have swapped the line directly to intake manifold and reads around 16vac, is there a check valve on the port that stops...
checked timing, it was out, now set to 5 btdc and it still idles a lil rough at idle and its around 1000rpm any lower and car stalls out when coming to a stop, i spoke with the guy i bought the car from and he suspects a leaky o-ring possibly at either the base of fuel injectors or somewhere in...
I have put the honeycomb back in lost few lbs boost but car is idling Lil smoother down to jus re timing the car trying to find pic of which plug to ground out I found two single wire plugs next to eachother behind battery one is a small pin connector other is a female spade connector but jus...
Some problems the one plug was the knock sensor which solved my CEL issue now I'm trying to set the timing but I don't know what plug the ground out, there two on fire wall there one is a wide spade connector and the other is a circular oval plug with a small pin in it both next to each other...
Cool so I don't need that one, now would that honey comb screen missing in the maf cause my idle to be rough? Car drives 100% jus idles a Lil rough now
The grey one was the knock that got rid of my cel and no more idle surge but it's idling at 1000Also I noticed one of the honey comb screens is missing from maf
Recently did head gasket had a cel so started investigating checked all my vac lines and found these two plug can't seem to find where they go<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r25/acura_grizzly/?action=view¤t=683f3123.jpg" target="_blank"><img...
I will also check the timing, timing should be 5 btdc with the connected grounded correct?Would it damage anything to use a test light to get the cel all topics I read never mention being able to use a test lightWell I checked my vac lines re ran them with good new ones still have check...
So I recently did a cometic head gasket and arp studs on my 1g tsi I did the simple route with vac lines from the taboo diagram now I have a check engine light and a idle surge from 1000-1500rpms after I drive it hard if it drives normal no surge but still check engine my course of action is...
My maft on Corner say cfg 2.02 is that what version software is in it?? I have read thu full throttles write up think I have a good idea how to tune it but not 100% sure I'm jus wondering if anyone knows the settings to have it read a 3.5" gm sensor like a stock 1g maf or if anyone is in cnj...
Ok some I'm new to the dsm scene I have a 92 tsi Non EPROM Ecu my only mods are A front mount kit and 3" exhuast I recently picked up a maft and 3.5" gm maf but no book I pretty sure I have a grasp on how to set it up Full throttles site but jus wanna know for sure so I'm looking for the correct...