Ok so my fuel trim when in closed loop is 27.2%!! Omg wow. Ok so I have 950 FIC installed with a -51.7% global and 325 deadtime, and stock battery inject table. I was able to get my airflow down to a .24-.25 by adjusting my SD VE table at idle. Now im noticing my front 02 sensor is now acting...
This is normal because when you take your foot off the gas, the injectors cut off and the motor is essentially a big air pump, so the lean condition when cruising and letting your foot off the gas and the injectors cut, is normal, wich is why im so confused since that's normal for a working WB...
I dont care so much for dsmlink to.display my estAFR, although I will go in and edit the info, but im trying to figure out why my ACTUAL AFR on my WB is displaying only 13.0 afr regardless if I try to adjust my fuel map/ global/ deadtime/ or injbattery table... the weird thing is, the wideband...
Idk, I thought the WB was working because when I let off the gas it goes lean, but even if I adjust my inj-batt- table im only to get it to read 13.0 on my wb02... for a leaner afr, you adjust the numbers in that table by decreasing them correct? Idk, I guess ill have to buy a new wb?
standby, im going to go and make a quick log right nowThere another way to upload here? i tried to use the upload provided my the forum, but when i click "browse" nothing happens..Here we go, log postedOk, ignore the WB on the log, thats not hooked up properly. The EST-AFR in the log reads...
first off, 97 GSX, 6-bolt, speed density with no IAT, Linkv3. So while cruising, my WB reads 12-13.2 AFR. Im running forced open loop, i loved using it in my lancer, i was able to run a steady 15.1 AFR while cruising and was able to tune my fuel maps with very stable AFR's and smooth transitions...
im not sure if there is any thread sealant on the plug, but everytime i look under the car, its dripping from that plug. the whole upper half of the timing area is oil free, its only around the oil filter housing, if it were an oil seal from the pump, does it usually just drip downward, or will...
Hey all, 97' GSX, 6-bolt, 90' OFH... i belive that my slight oil leak is coming from the oil relife valve plug, either that or the oil pump seal, but not getting oil on the timing belt or upper components. Is there a more easy way to tighten the oil relife valve other than having to remove the...
thanks for the help guys! hopefully the turbo is alrighti bought this one here: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Is there a spot in the head that I can connect. 4AN or would I need to drill? Ya at WOT its pretty close to 100 psi even warmed up, now if its pushing oil past the seals does that mean I ruined the turbo, or will it be fine with a restrictor?
Hey everyone, so latly i noticed im loosing some oil, and it smokes some blue when im at or near WOT. its starting to smoke a little at idle now as well. I belive the turbo on there is an FP green, ill post a pic in a min. But there is some oil from the compressor wheel side, and some oil in the...
Calan, I have not done a leakdown yet, though I do have the tool, I have never done it before because never had this prob or ever blew a head gasket, but I am very mechanical, could you explain how to do the procedure?
I just did at lunch, not sure if the machine shop used moly lube or not so I torqued them to 100 ft lbs just incase, 5 of them turned from 75 and the rest didn't budge at 100 ft lbs, do you think it could have just needed to be re torqued? 5 of the bolts did move from 75 to 100
That makes me feel better, ill look over and tighten the valve cover down to spec and also clean up everything. and ill inspect the oil cooler when i have time, as i think there is a good chance it could be i cranked the filter too much and ruined a seal or something-*update* three of the...
Your right, wow. i never even took the time to look those over. Ill do that. Ill look into the manual to see what tq spec those are, ill pull the valve cover and re tourque the head studs, and replace the valve cover gasket, then ill take break cleaner and clean everything down wash it all off...
oh ok gotcha, so i guess when i have time ill check the oil cooler, and then if i cant find anything there, ill pull the head off and inspect i guess thats all i can do. What about those head gasket test kits?
Pics! I wont be able to check the filter tonight its getting dark.fast. I was also informed the head was not re torqued after break in..Headgasket appears oilyTop of IM, could be headgasket or valve?Left side rear of head and block below I'MOil filter mountRight side head...
So I should.pull off the filter, and the oil.filter housing? How do I check for damage?? Also I should mention I have no coolant in my oil.according to my dipstick and valve cover, if it was a head gasket wouldn't the car be constantly over heating?
Ok here's the run down on the filter. Went to do a filter and oil change, noticed the filter on the housing was bigger than what I bought, but figured since I had the filter for a 97 gsx ill go ahead and put it on. I then noticed less surface area so I cranked on the filter to hope it wouldn't...
I think oil is getting in from another way besides the head gasket,I do notice a leak in the timing area, oil leak near the filter housing maybe the oil pump or relive valve? Idk, car runs and drives like a champ any ideas?
The motor only has 1200 miles on it, its a fully built 6 bolt and the car has a copper headgasket. I don't think its a head gasket, no smoke or driving problems
I have like alot of oil in my reservoir, its all.sludge and black. I have pics but tapeatalk said security error I can't upload? U need to see it, im.not sure at all.how oil can get.into the coolant? I have no running issues at all
Cool, ill do that! Also, can i install both nozzles directly on my intake mani? i was thinking behind the mani (side that faces firewall) so the nozzles would be spraying right into the ports, is this an ok thing to do? my intake mani is an aftermarket all alum mani.Also, the car is not dyno...
Awesome, thatnks for the reply. I was looking at the DO kits, there are a few there, is there any one there that you would use for something thats trying to reach 550-600 whp? (DVC 30-stage 2) (stage 1 universal)
i was getting some knock at 31 psi on 93, so i turned the boost down to 22 psi, no knock, but the motor is built for more power, thats why i was at 31, Im tuning with DSMlink v3. If i do setup meth, i want to get it dyno tuned at 31 psi, im not sure how to tune with meth, its all very new to me...
hey all, i was wondering what types of Meth kits you guys are running on your 2G 6-bolt setups. I have a 97 GSX @ 31 psi, (turned it down to 22 because currently on 93 pump) But im looking to have setting up a water/meth injection system because im sure 31 psi is unsafe for 93 pump gas. Here are...
I belive you want the IAT sensor after the BOV (in between the BOV & TB if im not mistaken) Im not sure on the harness, i simply used the OMNI power 4-bar MAP sensor that plugs right into the stock MDP harness. However i currently am not running an IAT sensor, i will before the dyno tune just...
Awesome, thanks for the information. I unchecked "missfire" under the DTC tab in link and i should be good to go then now, i appreciate the help, you have been very helpful to me in my other posts as well. Rep pts 4 u :thumb:
Oh very good to hear! Now, why is it recommended to use the BLK top sensor as opposed to the other types? Hope you dont mind these questions.. i like to learn WHY something is a certain way.. im not a very A/B person :thumb:
Questions for you! Thanks for the fast reply! I have the one in the first picture, and i also have one now in my hand that looks simillar to the last one. its got a dome black plastic top. i can take a pic and post it if you would like to see it?
1) Would it be bennificial to use this style...