I doubt the block is cracked, likely the aluminum oil pump. Possibly cracked from improper installation / bolt torque.

Check clutch fluid level, slave or master cylinder leaks.

Might be the idle air control valve moving sticking or moving slower than it used to.

That is toast, you'll loose a lot of top end oil pressure with that.

Where in Wisconsin are you?

I would just buy a roll of brake line, cut bend and flare yourself. You can usually reuse the original fittings.

You probably have a bad lifter, since it goes away when cams are removed, allowing the lifters to extend st that time.

99 Spyder GST thermostat part # is MD315301.

Yes the Evap lines not being hooked up will set the CEL, no it will have nothing to do with your running problem.

I've used several Specta Premium radiators and have never had any failures. The fitment is often a little off, but never to the point of having to return it.Yes, the OE radiator is made by Koyo.

The axles do not interchange much with each other. Awd is different on both sides from fwd, auto is different from manual, 1g and 2g do not interchange, abs or non abs. Basically if you have a 2g, fwd, manual trans with abs, you'll need an axle from the same car.

If you pump the clutch several times, is it easier to shift? IF so there is probably air in the system.

A rod knock doesn't have to happen at a certain rpm. It can happen at any rpm depending on how bad the damage is. If your oil has a silver metallic color to it, engine will need to be gone through. Hard to tell from the video, but does it get better or worse under a load, or at higher rpms...

I'd get a oil pressure tester (mechanical gauge) and see what the oil pressure readings are. A damaged or plugged up pickup may cause your issue.

A failed crank sensor could cause your issue. Check for crankshaft end play and see if a walking crank took out the sensor.

The '96-'99 transmissions are the same. '00 and up are different.

What he said. You do not want to use a tap to clean up threads. A tap will cut some material out of the threads. You would use what is called a thread chaser, which is essentially what the previous poster described.

If I,m seeing that 1st picture correctly, there are 2 wires coming from 2 different sensors on the transmission? If so it looks like they are input and output speed sensors for the transmission. You'll have to dig around and find where their harness plug in is. The speed sensors are essential...

The factory set fuel cut is there to prevent overrunning the capabilities of the stock fuel system. I'm sure the car is fine and no damage was done.

Make sure that there are no air leaks between your maf and turbo with your new intake pipe. That would definitely cause your issue.

Denso is a high quality alternator you can get from rockauto for $183.

If the power steering fluid was over filled, it could cause it to leak out of the reservoir at the cap. Coolant overflow may of filled up due to radiator cap not sealed up to hold pressure in system or failed cap not holding pressure. What were the mods that were recently done?

Check for vacuum leaks, air leaks between maf and throttle body, possible idle air motor sticking and reacting slowly.