The rear axles and drive shaft are the same for either as long as both are lsd.

Usually you can get the nuts off with some PB blaster and a good wrench with maybe a pipe for a handle. The bigger problem may be getting the bolts to come out of the bushing. You may have to cut thru the control arm to get it off and buy a replacement. There are several threads I've read...

In order to get the spacing right you need the bracket or if someone has one handy to measure you can replace it with stacked up washers.

Has your air conditioning been removed? The a/c compressor bracket is where the axle bracket bolts go thru providing the proper alignment with the trans hole. If that is gone, it makes the alignment off putting some extra stress on the bolt heads.

Not being a smart ass here but if your 7 bolt head is from a 1g you have the same ports as the 6bolt head. The only 7 bolt head with the smaller ports is a 2g head.

I think you are probably reading those adds wrong. The claims for that 450 pump are that it is safe for E85 not that it must run with E85.

He said the springs were too short. If more height is needed you either have to buy new springs or add spacers. The helper springs are to prevent the suspension from completely unloading and springs loosing alignment on the perches.

A set of helper springs would be plus for your set-up. At the same time you could add some dividers which would increase the height of your springs a bit. There are also spacers available. Check www.shock-shop.com as an example of what is available.

I can add a bit to this, Stock head bolts are a socket head and use a 10mm allen to turn them. The ARPs are a stud and have 14mm 12 point nuts on them. You will see some of the thread protruding above the nut. About your afpr, the base fuel pressure on a 1g is supposed to be 38 psi ( I believe...

Those wheel bearing/hub assemblies are the right way to go. I got mine recently from JNZ and they are the OEM ones. The difficulty of that job varies depending on the corrosion. If the axle comes out of the old hub easily and all of the necessary bolts come loose it will be a snap to do. When...

I just noticed that your car is n/t. I really have no experience with those so my post is probably of no use. Unless someone drilled and tapped that piece you won't find any 3/8 bolts on a Mitsu. Try the 8mm bolt.

That 10mmX1.25 is the correct size for your application. The bolt should not fit thru the motor/transmission mount but should thread into it. You fit it in from underneath and thru the cross-member and tighten it into the mount

I don't want to sound insulting but what did you use to make your measurements? I have always found the simplest way to check clearances is to use plasti-gauge. You get the true torqued bearing reading and it is pretty much fool-proof.

Probably want to keep in mind that the nuts will require a 12pt deep well socket. For a 6 bolt engine you need a 14mm but I'm not sure if the 7 bolt uses the same socket or not.

I know you said the starter checked good but is it freewheeling or does it not spin when you hear the solenoid? I would seriously suspect a starter issue. Could be that the contacts are worn and the solenoid is not extending far enough.

The float is attached to the pump assembly so that wouldn't be a worry. It's more than likely something that happened during your pump remove and install

You mighy try switching the connectors between the preaaure sender and the oil light switch. I remember getting those backwards before and having a similar problem.

Sorry for not posting back here. Yes Wes I sent them an e-mail with the question " is this the Diaqueen oil or is a cheaper substitute ". They answered back that this was the Mitsu facotry OEM gear oil originally designed for the EVO 5 speed trans and it is what they recommend for their...

I've used several types of transmission fluids over the years as recommendations have changed. My most recent trans oil is from Jacks. If you order from them, you are not getting the newer Diaqueen MR trans fluid. I was expecting to get some plain containers that they had filled from a large...

I didn't see a wide band af in your profile. If you don't have one it will be difficult to tune that thing. With the V3 you have control over the fuel and timing but you have to monitor the running engine in order to make the proper adjustments.

A lot of the suggested methods here are going to leave you with a pair of AGX shocks needing repair or replacement. If you can get the other suspension pieces loose you can just switch the rusted on shocks as an assembly from one car to the other. It won't solve your rust problem but it won't...

Washers under the lifters is how they take up the difference when re-grinding a cam. Your HKS cams may be re-ground or they could even be stock cams re-ground to the HKS profile.

The Punishment Racing down pipe actually has a 2.5" flange welded to the 3" pipe. I'm pretty sure it will work with your OEM O2 housing. I didn't try that with mine since I'm running the 3" FP housing but I think it will work.

As you pull the engine out take note of any broken bolts ( exhaust manifold for example ) and get the fixes done before re-install. It's much easier to put in a helicoil without the cramped spaces

I'm probably stating the obvious here but if you want to use that oil cooler you will also need to get the oil filter housing to go with it. If the cooler was only $10 I would probably go back and get the filter housing off the same car.

I have to disagree here. The id of the hose is -6 no matter how it's constructed. On the other hand, the OD of the PTFE is smaller.

Thanks for all the help. Bastarddsm, I don't think there is enough room on the bottom of those holes for a nut, but I will check that when I get home. I did buy some high temp nickel anti-sieze so once I get this issue fiixed it shouldn't come back.

I know how difficult that stainless will be to cut, I was afraid of breaking a tap just chasing the threads. Do you think that the tap with the Helicoil kit will survive? Last thing I want is a broken tap in the hole.

I always wanted and recently purchased an FP3052 turbo. I was told low milage and have no reason to doubt that yet since I haven't run the car. Working on the install I discovered that the threads in the housing to bolt to the exhaust manifold are not the best. I cleaned 2 of the holes up easily...

I haven't seen this in a reply yet so, is your engine temp getting to where it should be? If not, change the thermostat if it is then you need to look at the other stuff mentioned.

I used to run those web 546/547 cams in my 91 talon. I'm not real sure where they got those numbers from ( I think it's just their grind number ) but it doesn't designate valve lift. From their web site the valve lift is ( in inches ) .400/.385 and the duration is 272/256. They are not nearly as...

While not exactly what you are asking for, I've pretty much decided on an air to water from frozenboost.com. They would meet all of your requirements for being stealthy and allowing for short pipe runs while retaining your a/c. I don't yet have any experience with the system but you might read...

Just a thought, you can buy some 3/8 aluminum fuel line and the tube nuts and necessary fittings a lot cheaper than the hose. I think the line is about $20 for a 15 or 20' piece. Just flare the ends and it bolts right up to your -6an filter. You can't even see that expensive braided line anyway...

Is it a wide band display? What is the brand name?

I would check that out more closely before doing anything. Most of the DSMers are really too thrifty to by an electronic boost guage. Usually it's mechcanical and the boost is measured thru a hose that comes into the pillar and plugs onto a barbed fitting on the back of the unit. There aren't...

Wow, lots of stuff going on here.First, the 2G head bolts won't work in a 6 bolt block. (I think you mentioned a 6 bolt block in your first post). Make sure you have clearance in the bolt holes in the 2G head for the bigger 6 bolt head bolts.Second, don't use that MLS head gasket if you are...

I don't have the same issues that you are trying to solve, my feed line will only be -6AN. What I think is getting overlooked is the existing feed line. If you take it loose at both ends ( which you will do when upgrading ), why not use it as the return? This will give you a sizable increase in...

Lou98gsx, that's the way I always thought about a recall also. From what I've read here it's not the case with these cars. The senario goes, Mitsu sends out the recall notice ( I think ), the owner takes the car in, Dealer tech inspects the ball joints/arms and either replaces them or gives them...

I bought a replacement OEM front kit from JNZtuning for $88.00 per side for my 98 GSX. It includes both arms and the knuckle. So you can replace all at once and save some money to.

I have a similar hp goal for my car but with an FP 3052 turbo. I have been looking at the available regrinds. The dsm graveyard 274s have caught my eye as a suitable candidate. Half the price of those Kelfords.

You probably want to check the gaps around your door also. If they are not even, you should adjust your hinges first.