I know somewhere back in the thread you said pedal assembly is rebuilt. Do you know how it was done? I've seen this done incorrectly.

What is your skill set? Start here. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-diagnose-a-no-start.217951/

The bracket and axle is heavy. Hold it up and it won't drag.

Need more info. What have you checked? Ecu? PTU? Timing belt? There are 100 reasons. Give us some detail. What does smokey spark plugs mean?

I've never had one of those bolts fight me. Try screwing one in all by itself. How does it feel? On using them as dowels that doesn't make much sense to me. I have no idea why they have that machined end. A bolt is centered all on its own. The holes in the bracket aren't all that precision fit...

Quitcher bitchin, lol.try a 2g trans. 1g is cake by comparison. Btw my record is 8 trans drops over a weekend.

Did Tim comment? .608 seems shallow to me.

Have you looked at the filler neck? Just because it doesn't click off early doesnt mean you don't have a leak. If it reeks that bad a leak should be obvious.

Did you put a new fuel pump in? Probably needs it.

Measure it. Whether you change it or not measure it so you know what it is.

Hold up. I think he's asking if he can just do that and not have to get a new tcase and rear end. Yes if tourbring gear is matches to a particular tcase and rear end then yes they are swappable. You need to know what's what and have a complete matching set. Ring gear and output, tcase and rear...

Thanks for all the feedback. I was reading some electricians post that leviton has gone downhill for whatever reason. Typically if I'm in a box store I choose lowes who carries Eaton and surprisingly now all klein tools. Guess the pros finally complained enough.

This forum always has better info on ANY topic it seems. What is your preference for residential electrical supply stuff like switches, outlets etc. Leviton? Eaton? Cooper? I mainly stick to the box stores and buy the better stuff and not the "basic" 1$ stuff. Any opinions? I hate doing work twice.

Any codes? Replace throttle body? No. Unlikely. Given driveability and idle are affected I would start by checking vacuum/leaks and check mechanical timing. NOT ignition timing.

For what it's worth there is "big 16g" and "evo3 16g" there is no "evo3 big 16g".

Same company but apparently they made hand tools also.

Has anybody heard of Rimac???

Just because I'm that guy, you do understand he just gave you a firing order that is not stock for a 97. It's required to run DSMLink in a 2gb

I assume you've checked the pedal assembly also?

Please check the faq or resource sections. That's where I found this.https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-2g-fuse-box-diagrams-cover-diagram-fuses.310956/

Check the fusible link for the alternator. It's a bolt in fuse so don't just yank it. Charging system is simple. Did you check voltage at the alternator? If it's putting out 14 but batt is 12 fusible link is my first suspect. If a shop couldn't figure this out maybe time to get another shop.

I went to dallas to see it. If you haven't seen totality put it on your bucket list. Easily one of the coolest things I've ever experienced.

Look at the piping going to it. That's your intercooler

This has been my only method for 25+ years. Haven't had one stuck yet.

Put a square shank screwdriver/prybar behind it. Twist the shank with a crescent wrenchOn awd drivers side has no c-clip.

Fwd and awd use same pattern. The difference is 1g and 2g. They are different. I know a 2g trans will bolt to a 1g block but if memory serves one bolt won't be used. I can't tell you if it goes the other way. If you're swapping awd/fwd stuff you need to know starter plates are different etc...

I would undo the passenger control arm. When I drop a trans I don't pull the axle from the hub. I drop the control arm and undo the knuckle from the strut. In your case you only need to move out some. Undo control arm should allow knuckle enough movement to take axle with it. Whether you...

You ikely won't find it at a store but yes people have it. Try a muscle car Specialty type place.

Get a real boost gauge and find out.

Neither of those will fix that problem. Different wastegate will fix it.

Use your 1g components. Ignore the crank sensor. Use the 1g cam sensor. Can't remember if the intake came is drilled to accept this so you may need the 1g cam also. Everything else just use what you have.

Check the throttle cable at the manifold. Something isn't right and likely at that end. Additionally if it dies you may have two problems. Make sure the throttle is closed. If it doesn't idle then you've got a leak or something wrong in the idle control. Leak is more likely considering somebody...

Pull which pedal back?

I think you're missing the point. You can't use that engine at all as it won't bolt into a 1g car. It can't. 1g uses front and rear mounts on the block. 2g uses them on the trans.If you have all 4 motor mounts present then you don't have a 2g block. Clarify please..

Wouldn't matter. 2g engine diesnt have engine mount bosses front or rear. You can't bolt in a 2g block into a 1g carAnd to answer your question 1g doesn't use a crank sensor.

Please reread your posts. I cant even tell what kind of car you have. Do you have a 95 car or 94 car? Please try and use whole sentences so we can tell what you have and what you need so we can help you.

Am I reading this wrong? 94 which would be a 7 bolt.Op your posts are very difficult to read. You want to use a 94 engine in a 95?

It could be. You need to know for sure. Rule out one possibility at a time.

Does it have a real boost gauge? 3" turbo back is known to cause boost creep/overboost. You need to know for sure.

Did this car sit fir awhile. Does it have fresh gas?

No. It will not. Dsms do not have any clamped connections or a Schrader valve.

You posted in another thread. You don't have an oem manifold. You have a forced performance exhaust manifold.

As stated earlier. Please check the resources section. Alternatively you can actually Google this site by asking a question in Google followed by , dsmtuners. Problem is some topics, boost leak, have been asked so many times you may not find anything useful. UNLESS you go to the resource pages...

You have multiple threads for multiple topics. I suggest you stop and identify exactly what you have on the car first. Post some pics if you're not sure. Verify by whatever means necessary the following What ecu is in the car What maf What injectors Is your bov recirculated Do you have any boost...

All is revealed in the resources section or the forum archives. Please spend some time looking through the resources. 30+ years worth of knowledge.https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/injector-and-fuel-pump-supported-airflow.366003/

Have to ask. How did you verify this?

See post 18

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-4g63t-pcv-system.366890/Also found in the resources section. Please take some time and just read. Believe me it is worth your time.

Many common topics are discussed in the resources link at the top of the page. You have decades of research and development at your fingertips.

Try this. https://www.anplumbing.com/