This is what i figured, to me it seems it would be more accurate that way, most people i talk to are just like "use the black top like weve been doing for years" but to me it just seems lazy, and i understand its much simpler.
All in the same breath im like does it really need to be that...
What is a better way to read timing in a 2.4 build
Should i stick with using the crank angle sensor and the cam angle sensor in the cam gear or go with the cam angle sensor and just rewire
I know back in the day people preferred the 1g cam angle sensor to adjust base timing, ill jsut set mine...
Exactly the type of info i was looking for! I was curious if i should just scrap the dif with my car or if it would do me any good in my new auto with work of course.Should i go through the trouble with swapping everything over if i plan to weld my center dif? Would it make much if any...
I knew the gear ratio was different, but can i unbolt the lsd from the gearing or whatever it is connected to and connect it to the gearing of the auto diff, not sure if that works really not sure about anything in there other than it has teeth and whatnot ha
Good tip on the evo rear diff ill...
Id take it too ive got to paint my car anyways, ill throw you some money too pm me, i think ive seen your car before too, do you have a tv where the airbag used to go?
Ive never really seen the insides of the rear diff in a 2g but my questions are:
Can i remove the lsd from my manual and install it in my auto diff?
Does it even remove from the gears inside?
Should i even bother with it if im going to weld my center diff?As you can probably tell i have...
Wow yes they do other than them being universal, getting somewhere... someone told me enkie rp01 there close but have an extra lip so there out. Its something thats been bugging me
The only marking i can find on them without pulling them off are "jwl via 690kg" which is prettymuch useless, they are 17x7.5's i believe and have multiple bolt patterns any help is appreciated
Look in my thread 1st post i have a link with the cam card
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/466326-input-cams-too-big-okay.html
I have a set of fp5r fp11 cams would these be too big for a 2.4lr with a bw s366 or possibly s400 reved to 8500Heres the spec sheet if anyone needs it:
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/00000001/data/119FP5RV2.pdf
Well all the plastics were gone by the time i checked, i do still have all the seats though, the drivers side has a decent tear in it but all the others look pretty good
Oh man it actually had perfect grey panels and leather seats but I just tossed them in the dumpster cause I figured no one would want them since there the generic color. Ill check and see if they are still in there tomorrow morning and grab them. I'm down to shoot the shit anytime man
They would all be matching splines from the rear end to the transfercase,axles etc and any 2g transmission would work, it would all be coming off of this exact car, im just keeping the shell itself
The shell is fine but i did replace the quarter panel and cut the front radiator support off to tube it and welded it back on but not selling I'm just going to scrap it, prob 500 for the harness i paid 300 for the spare so I could have the same color wires on everything I extendedIll explain...
I have a 95 talon tsi awd, let me know what you need off of it.
Blacked out tail lights and headlights
Fully wire tucked harness (fuse box is wired to the air bag compartment)
Fludyne aluminum radiator
6 bolt bare block (virgin)
6 bolt crank (virgin)
7 bolt engine (rod knock)
1g ported...
Ive read they have issues with blowing headgaskets, not sure why though. However people had the most luck with running an o-ringed head or block with a composite gasket
Is the lr2.4 that much better than the std if only revving to 8k, or worth the extra $3-400Well decided to stick with original plan of a lr2.4 and ordered the manley pistons hopefully they work out, there going to be connected to grp 156mm aluminum rods (custom made)
They would work with a 150mm rod though and 100mm crank... hmm
what other options are there for a 4g64 block, 100mm crank and 156mm rods, all that ive been able to find is manley
Or should i just stick with a plain ole 2.4 so i have multiple options on pistons and rods, from what i understand...