sounds strange to burp the system. But it will really help. You would be surprised how much air is probably in your system if you haven't burped, pressurized it.Its not "strange". This is what we do FIRST in intermittent overheating situations for ALL cars. (I work at a dealership.)...
Ahem. No. "I" did NOT. My car was being moved across the country and they didn't see the note I left by the ignition that said, "my car has a "push-to crank" button in the center console". Bastards missed it and figured I had a dead battery. Fried my whole system.
Alright, brother. Let's put your heating issue to bed.First off, don't look at your coolant reservoir like its gonna give you real-time info. This is only for overflow. When your engine cools down, your engine will suck coolant from there to replace anything lost. But only after...
Looks like you got lucky, there. I wasn't so fortunate. Diode 103 was blown and the adjacent track was in tact on mine. Blown ECU altogether due to idiots who tried to jump start my car and reversed the polarity. In situations like this, the ECMTuning chip is fine.Good to see you got...
Much love, Jafro. Your DSM vids are the poo.Helped me out when I rebuilt my driveshaft and replaced my carrier bearings. Them Lobro joints are no joke, though!DSM4Life!
Rollin' on Eibach Sportlines. 1.5" drop. Not ridiculous, but yes, lowered. I'll replace the axle again this weekend. I get the feeling I may be okay since I changed the mounts. I'll keep this post updated. No catastrophic failure yet.Thanks, all.
No. AC is NOT deleted. Lets put that to bed.Engine mounts? Just did all 4 3 weeks ago. Spent the money and got some GOOD ones. Avid Racing billet aluminum with 75A inserts rated up to 650hp. THAT took car of my first gear take-off shimmy.I also just replaced my sway bar links with...
Yeah. Those are just fine.Have you ever heard of this kind of symptom from a bad motor mount? All I see from others on mounts is bad vibrations. But never any CV joint separations.
So I'm on my 4th or 5th CV shaft. I get about 300 miles out of each one, and then they blow up.Basically, I put one in, and then after about 300 miles, I get a HARD pulling to the left for a few seconds and then I hear parts "falling" out from underneath and then it straightens up again...
So here's the deal. I keep blowing out my front drivers side CV axle. I get about 300 miles out of each one and then, BAM! Gone.I'm on my 4th or 5th one in the past 8 months. No joke.Tired of replacing them.Here's what happens. Right before they go, I get a HARD pulling to left...
Any meets planned for the future? I see that this thread has been idle for a while. I just moved back to the area and the local import scene seems decent. Seein' a lot of Hondas, a few Evos, and a couple 1Gs and 2Gs in the area. Looked online and the only things I saw were classic car meets...
Well, new springs are installed. Wasn't difficult at all. I was a little concerned with with the difference in ride height, still. The driver's side is about half an inch lower than the passenger's side. After a bit of reading, I guess it's pretty common in 2G's. Just normal wear and tear...
So since I was going to do the struts, I figured I might as well do all the ball joints too. So I replaced all of the lower control arms and replaced the struts with KYBs as well as replaced all the bushings and hardware with all new ones.No luck. Still low on the driver's side.New...
Agreed. Sounds like you're still running a 7-Bolt. With a 6-Bolt block swap, the pesky crank angle sensor is eliminated. Just runs off the cam angle sensor.As regards your issue, the mech is NOT to blame. These sensors cannot "look good". They either work or don't.Get a new one...
It WAS in running condition. That's how it got on the truck in the first place. Long story short, they TOLD me they tried to jump start my car. And I KNOW they f'd it up because of the ECU being fried. I did a reverse polarity diagnostic on the ECU and it was fried due to this.I DID...
So when I moved from North Carolina, I had a shipping company move my GSX for me. Bad move. They tried to jump start my car and reversed the polarity and fried my ECU.New ECU got here yesterday and it fired up on the first try.Here's the issue. ALL my AutoMeter gauges give NO...
Gentlemen, (All of you)Please realize that when you start your car cold the ECU is in "Open Loop Mode". What this means is that the ECU does not take the sensor readings into account until the engine has at least reached operating temperature. What it does is just ASSUME settings and run...
I second this motion.Just because it was good before, don't assume it's still good. I ran into the same situation when I did my 6 Bolt swap. Worked grand before and then ran into issues with it after that. Threw codes and everything you describe. Spend the $35 to replace it and then if...
When you posted it as "Drive Shaft", I'm sure we ALL thought you meant a no kidding DRIVE SHAFT for a GSX. Since you have, a GST, you mean "CV (Constant Velocity) Axle".Moving right along... Lesson learned. IF EVER you need to whack on the CV axle to ensure proper seating into the...
The constant RPM fluctuation at idle is a sure indicator of a vacuum leak somewhere. Check ALL your lines. Listen under the hood for any small, high-pitched sucking sound. Vacuum leaks can give you MIL Codes for many things. Find the leak, and plug 'er up.
Wow. That's a pretty significant rust issue. I was hoping just to see simple rust and throw a "wire wheel and repaint" corrosion control measure. But your issue seems to be much deeper than that.After you do get that figured out, I have seen people put a light coat of RhinoLining or...
As stated before, I wouldn't do anything until you have a failure. My suggestions is that when you do run into one, do a 6 Bolt block/2G Head build. Just to eliminate the walking issue the 7-Bolts are plagued with.Keeping the boost in check was a good call as well.I did a 6 Bolt/2G...
When you set your initial base time, it should be set to 5 degrees. When you start the car, verify with a timing light that the timing matches what Link shows you. During cruise, I normally see around 22 degrees. During wide open throttle operations, full boosting, you should be seeing around...
Check out this link from Eric the Car Guy on YouTube. It's for the issue you're having. He breaks it down Barney-style for you.He's great.Cheers.How To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
Personally, I'd steer clear of an RX-8 in ALL possible ways. Even down to the wheels. I've briefly owned one and it was nothing but a headache.Some bad joo-joo may follow if you use wheels from an RX-8.Just sayin', Bro.
Yes AND no. If you're concerned about having the upper timing cover mate with it, then no.But if you don't plan on running an upper timing cover, then yes. Trimming away some of the material for the water pump and taking some material off the bottom where it extends out from the engine, so...
You will be able to see the teeth of the flywheel with the help of a flashlight. Unfortunately, you will only be able to see just a few teeth at a time. Like 4 or 5. In order to see more teeth at a time, get under the vehicle and look between the block and the transmission. You'll see a lot...
"DANGER TO MANIFOLD". Lulz. I remember watching that movie for the first time and thinking it was awesome. Then I just watched it recently and thought, "Wow, this is ###."I feel you on the helping each other aspect of this site. We're all here for a common goal and bashing each other on...
Pull the engine. It'll make life so much simpler for you. If you know what you're doing, you can work slowly while drinking a cold beer and have the engine completely out in 4 hours. With 2 people who've done it multiple times, it can be out in less than 2 hours.With the engine out, you...
I've had the same issue. It turned out that the firmware on the ECU was outdated. If you upgraded the program to the newest, and the ECU has the old firmware, this will cause a "no response" condition.Unfortunately to do the firmware upgrade, you have to send it in to ECM Tuning to get...
Olympia here. I've only seen a red 2G recently. Mine is down until I get a new ECU. Moving company tried to jump my car and reversed the polarity. :ohdamn:Tried to get them to pay for a new one. Told me to piss off cause I have no proof.To do: New EPROM ECU, front stuts, upper and...
I agree with Azrael. Although I have not had this issue, I agree with his troubleshooting steps.Based off what you said, I believe you mean this happens while the car is in motion which leads me to believe it's drivetrain related.I think you should check is your engine mounts. If one...
My 6 Bolt swap currently has 435 miles on it. Runs like a new car.I'm not trying to step on anyones balls here, just saying he wouldn't post a rough engine situation if it werent pertinent.
BEFORE YOU SPEND ANY MONEY!!!I HAD THE SAME ISSUE!!!Go out and idle the car up to operating temperature. Then go to your streaming data. O2 not cycling? Tap the gas real quick. Does the signal jump? If yes, go to your fuel tab and increase injector deadtime until your idle AFRs are...
Sounds like a MAF issue. I would do your checking there. I wish I had more to give you but just shooting from the hip, that'd be my guess. If your MAF ain't working right, you won't get the fuel to match and cause some sputtering/lack of power issues.
Althought it may be convienient to get a universal from your nearest parts store if they don't have your OEM in stock, I wouldn't recommend it.I get mine from rockauto.com. OEM, perfect fit, no issues. Sure the wait for shipping can be a drag, but you get the right part. And CHEAPER than...
I usually write long a drawn out posts 'cause I hate the ol' "BOOST LEAK" quick reply.But I really recommend you get DSMLink. It's an invaluable tool no only for general datalogging but for troubleshooting as well. Sometimes, tinkering with an issue for days and throwing parts at it can be...
UPDATE:I filed a claim with the moving company and they told me to piss off because I have no proof that they fried my ECU.I also did a reverse polarity check to my ECU to determine whether or not the ECU can be repaired in it's current state. Diode 106 was blown to bits and the...