chacedog1 updated 1g GSXView updates to this DSM profile...

ok yea that seems right ,thanks again!!

Would you happen to know the torque spec for thoes also?

thanks again tmoney cant tell you how much you have helped me through this project

Here is a pic

hi all im looking for the bolts that hold up the rear subframe in my 91 gsx. they are 6 bolts total (3 on each side) that hold up the triangle stud (2 total triangle studs 1 on each side) to mount up the front part of the rear sub frame. not sure if there are a mitsu part # for them or if anyone...

subframe is out. waiting for my new one to arive. holy rust!

will do, hey were your subframe mounts to the body did you have a hec of a time getting the nuts free. did you use a torch to heat them?

You helped me make up my mind in repairing my rust issues! Lol

yea thats basicly what i havd to do to my subframe.

Yes i have to get a new rear subframe strip it and paint it along with fixing my roker pannels and pass side floor board. Anyone got a cheap subframe they want gone?

was under car fixing exhaust and noticed my rear crossmember had a massive crack in it, was debating on getting another one but knowing ther is alot of under car rust on my car im starting to lean tword a new shell. wanted to share this bizzar photo. (dam newengland weather)

UPDATE: took back motormount bolt and drivers mount bolt out jacked motor up a bit and tranny went right on. Wow what a relief!!!!:hellyeah::thumb:Thanks to who responded, you all were a big help.

Check injector clips one of mine was loose a while ago caused similar issuse for me

Thanks everyone for the help going to unhook a motormount jack up the motor then i should be able to make it. Ive also have read some people have the same problem and have to move the motor up od down a bit to get it. Ill report back

Another image

So ive been at it for a few hours last night and tonight and can only seem to get the tranny on and all the way in but its not on the dowel pins its cocked to the right a bit i try to pull it out a bit and spin it left but tranny just hits the frame to the left of me.would it be any help if i...

:hellyeah:

thanks ill report back on how it goes :pray:

thanks man it sure does :thumb:

thanks again big help, wow id say you were a master at it by now haha, to bad from michigan could use an extra hand. p.s. can you do it by yourself or 2 people is needed.

Hi all, Im in the middle of a clutch and flywheel swap and had a question about putting the tranny back up. I have the car on jacks ready to put the tranny up, got it jacked up using a floor jack having a hec of a time trying to get it all lined up. (either hitting frame were control arm...

chacedog1 submitted a new Showcase Item:1g GSXRead more about this showcase item here...

My motor was flexing also and my mounts were cracked and n/g replaced with poly mounts and stiffened right up vibrates a little more but well worth it. If you want a stock feel try Dealer or Rock auto may have stock mounts.

A few hours of porting (2) and it should help, what turbo do you have?14b stock?

Does it turn over slow or fast

do you have a spare wastegate to try and see if thats the problem before you go out and buy one?

I had a no boost knock problem a while back an ended up being phantom knock. with ecm link you can set your knock sensor control to eliminate phantom knock. i set mine to activate at 4000rpm and 40% tps cured my no boost knock.

P port works good for me and a few other 1g an 2g owners i know:thumb:

if you decide not to build your own try This is the default title by turboboostleaktesters.com and they have good info on how to do one and why its important.

do a boost leak test sounds like you've got a massive air leak.is your biss screw set properly?

just like most here are saying hallman pro for a boost controller and any autometer boost gauge will be great, ive run both in 2 dsm's that ive owned.

they will fit but you may rub a little when you turn the wheels all the way right or left.

I also ran into that problem instead of searching for an eprom ecu I contacted ecmtuning and they converted my non eprom to an eprom, very reasonable prices :thumb:

also for the hec of it check the intake pipe that the clamps and couplers are tight on them and no cracks. I had a cracked intake pipe before and had similar issues. Un metered air was coming in causing problems and back firing issues.

^ the axle is circled to the right of that is the rear diff

very true! makes me want to check mine as soon as I get home!

you could hold the shaft (close to the u joint) and push up and down,side to side to see if you get any play in them. you could also use a small pry bar an gently pry between the u joints looking for any play.

check the Freelancer Products & Services there are a few turbo rebuilders there who can point you in the right direction on the best parts, part #s etc

I had a similar problem and happened to be a crack in my Intake Pipe. make sure your clams are tight around maf and turbo compressor housing check the couplers for slices pre turbo and check the intake pipe or snorkel (which ever kind you have).

her is a website to test some of your sensors, may come in handy :thumb:DSM simple test page

Ahhhh IC, any way of pushing it back in a little? let us know how you make out.

Ive run RC injectors in my 2 recent dsm's . ive had good luck with them

Grab the rear sway bar ends near the links and move up and down to see if there is any play in the links.

From what you describe the clutch seems to be the culprit. with over 200k that is what I would 1st change with the description you gave. Do you have a local shop to bring it too or you plan on doing it yourself?

(this is for a 1G not sure about his 2g) try setting your tps to .63v closed. ive had a problem before with my tps not being at the correct voltage at closed position. and make sure your throttle cable is at correct tension. cable can get tight when engine bay heats up causing the throttle plate...

valve stem seals, same exact thing happened to my car, worth the fix! if you search you will find a good write up on how to do them and save you some labor $$

Im having a similar problem,I replaced my cas oring 2 times and still leaks some. Ive herd of rtv being used like you said and was wondering if it worked for you because im out of options now tried 2 new o rings and still a slight leak hmm.

yes sounds like we have the same problem but opposite a/f issues,i will try leaning it out more at thoes rpms and let you know.