If you've fully ensured you have the master and slave cylinders set correctly. Check the play on the clutch fork. There is the possibility that it somehow popped off the pivot ball/stud inside the bellhousing.To test...start the engine. Push clutch pedal, try shifting into gear, if you...

Believe it or not when these cars are maintained properly and in good working order you can average 35-38 MPG on the highway.

Bottom line if you're looking to go fast and have the A604 (auto) trans especially with a 420a, it's just not a likely scenario. The high mileage also compounds the scenario.I burned up my auto trans shortly after my motor build was done and ended up swapping my motor into a chassis with a...

^^^ There are some great images in the flickr link! Nicely done!I'll be sharing a few later today hopefully, upload has been taking forever!Ok here they are. I will directly upload some to the site when I get home from work tonight...

I've got over 300 photos to go through and edit still. I won't post them all in here, unless you insist. ;)

If you're still having a problem with this...Try pulling your throttle body, removing the sensors (TPS and IAC) and cleaning all the gunk out of it. Clean the back of the butterfly plate as well. Get a new TB gasket, put the sensors back in the TB and reinstall the TB. See what happens.

I currently use the MPX manual IAC screw and it works as advertised. If you are currently building a Megasquirt (MS2 or MS3) it wouldn't be a bad idea to build the IAC circuit and allow MS to handle that for you.I took the alternative approach using the manual IAC screw and adjusting my...

Sorry if that came off the wrong way, I wasn't trying to be rude. No problem, and good luck in the future with the car!

You're trying to get fancy here. As far as "resetting" the ECU on a 420a, it goes as far as disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 to 30 minutes. I don't recall the exact amount of time, but if you're installing a new motor, I would believe you haven't had a battery hooked up for...

We were wondering why it sat so high, that makes sense with it being gutted practically. Very cool what you guys did with the car and were able to accomplish. Nice job, again.

I remember seeing it make some runs over the weekend. Nice job with 2nd overall. One of our buddies tried talking with your brother about the car and got the cold shoulder. It would be cool to see a mod list on the vehicle.

Like a few others have said, invest that money in tuning equipment, (wideband o2, SAFC, or Megaquirt if you're up for it). The stock injectors will work just fine.

I just find it odd that this is being posted right after the SO. If it did happen at the SO, there was hardly any word of it, not too mention the time slips at Norwalk look nothing like the one pictured here.Not to mention the 1.5 60'... many of the seasoned veterans who do this for a living...

EDIT. Guys we've been had.When and where was this done at?

Well, it's partially my fault to begin with not giving them the desired results before all this started. I did however pickup a rear camber kit at the Shootout for next to nothing and will install that at a later date (no more washer games haha) and go back in there.

Went out and measured a bit ago and they are the same if not very close +/- 3/16" maybe.I went in there after work to talk to them, and he mentioned it could be that the spring on that side is starting to sag. As for asking to get the rear toe closer to 0.0 he told me it's not adjustable?So...

Thanks for the insight. Overall the ride quality and handling has drastically improved compared to the previous wheels I was using. I had an 18x8.5 with a 225/40 and I don't think I need to explain much further there heh. The wheels looked great but I'm way more pleased with what I have now...

I would run the car on the stock system for at least a week before your test. Youll want to make sure the car has fully warmed up and that you drive it for longer than 30 minutes during that time. If you just go the day before without doing what I just said you will likely fail.As for.the...

In all reality, you shouldn't have any trouble passing your emissions. Wire the MS2 in parallel with the stock ECU (as mentioned above). All you need to do is go to the junkyard and get an injector pigtail harness and the coilpack pigtail. Wire those in so all you have to do to switch from...

I just had an alignment done yesterday on the car and wanted to share the specs to get some opinions from some of you guys who may know more than I do.In all reality, it looks like a camber kit for the front should be considered in the future to get the left/right even, and I think for the...

Out of curiosity, does the battery light come on while driving/running? I'd check the wire that bolts on at the bottom of your alternator. There has been cases of that nut becoming loose and the wire arcing across its contact, which can start all kinds of bugs. This would rule out one...

This is a common nuisance on the 420a that some people have. The RPM's will "hang" for awhile when going to neutral and rolling up to stops. It will hang for awhile, then usually level off.Sounds like an issue with your IAC (idle air control) valve. You should pull the throttle body...

Try RockAuto.

Whatever it is, it's not stock. Some sort of aftermarket accessory that was added, and then removed but the wiring and that plug was left behind? Maybe someone else can chime in here and give a better explanation.

IIRC, it is 22b in your diagram. Use this link to help you figure out which wires control what.2GNT.com - 1997_ECUFollow it by wire color since it is the pinout for a 97. There are differences in the ECU's pinouts between these years, but the wire colors are the same. Hope this helps.

First things first, low coolant is not good. If you just got the car, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have it flushed. I'd go ahead and give her a basic tune-up as well. New plugs, wires, oil change, bleed the clutch/master cylinder. I'd also go over the engine and make sure all your sensors...

I'd get the front end back up in the air and on stands. Go back over your brake job and look for anything that might point you in the right direction. You won't know until you get back in there and try to pinpoint whats going on.

The motor will work fine, I believe the situation you are running into is that you have a 96 wiring harness in the car which utilized round pin connections on the crank, coilpack, and perhaps a couple other sensors. 95-96 used these types of connectors. 97-99 switched to flat pin connectors...

Yes. 185 across the board is like you said...decent. Average. Keep up the routine maintenance and you'll be fine.

Another rule of thumb to go by...Don't always rely on the pinout. Go by wire color designation.

Any specific reason why you are changing out the IM gasket?The black box that's in your way is the vacuum reservoir for the cruise control. There should be a couple brackets that extend off the back of the manifold and engine block that hold that in place. Be gentle as you can as you don't...

It needs to be ready for the SO! See you there man.

If you're not willing or confident enough to do a timing belt job on your car you might want to consider another hobby. No offense, just being frank. Especially on an aging platform as this one. I understand where you're coming from being unsure of yourself with the timing belt maintenance...

That's what I was afraid of...well back to the drawing board again. Think I'll just go back to my 14b plan.

I could use some help identifying either of these turbos.First one has the following markings, S/N OEM00577 and 409410-50065.http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/SHOAFECLIPSE/null-6.jpghttp://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/SHOAFECLIPSE/null-8.jpgThe other in question has MIM03872...

The TOB noise as you described is 'typical'...and it will go away when you engage the clutch. As for the second part, it sounds like you're not getting it fully engaged into reverse. Since you have the transmission already pulled you probably ought to have it looked at if you're not confident...

When's the last time you checked/changed the fluid in the clutch reservoir and bled the slave? That might be an area to look into.

Best advice I can give you is don't do it and find another option. You're better off building your 2.0 or doing the conventional 2.4 EDZ block.

Here's a trick to remembering.If you're under the car or looking at the back of the block where the 3 sensors are. They do a 'step/stair' pattern. Reading left to right it goes oil pressure, knock, crank. If you read it in that direction you are going "downstairs". Read right to left...

My thoughts exactly. Very very impressive work sir. Congratulations on all that you have accomplished up til now and to the future!

I can't believe this many people are that chickenshit around spiders.Get that torch back out, heat the pulley or in that vicinity up, and he'll be out of there in no time.OR...wear some gloves and get back to work.OR buy some home defense spray and spray that shit around the inside/outside...

Pretty sure he is referring to a timing belt, Steve. Heh.

Pretty good list there. I'd ditch the OBX cam gears, and opt for a set of Fidanza's. Otherwise, cam gears don't do much for our cars.On the rockers and lifters/lash adj's, look for the upgraded 2.4's. They are a direct fit, and will give you better oiling of the valvetrain vs. the 2.0's...

Abe...look at the previous post. This thread is almost 3 years old now.If you bought the OBX manifold, that was your first mistake. Waste of money. There are several modifications to perform before it really becomes a necessity to start altering the intake manifold.

The box is not a necessity. Just re route the vacuum line from the cruise vacuum servo and you should be good to go.I pulled my intake manifold last summer to install a phenolic spacer and I didn't bother re-installing the box...and to my surprise my cruise control still works fine.

A604 is the code for the automatic transmission on the 420a.

I'd start by wiping everything down as clean as you can get, and then start looking for the source of the leak. It's going to be a messy clean up, but needed to locate the source.

I just want to say nice job so far on saving the car. I wish I had the time/money/garage space to do something like this...and especially if I could find one for only $200.

That's a good way to grenade your A604 AT.

Don't forget to check the small hose that's about 3" long that runs across the top of the manifold. It's directly over the #1 runner of the exhaust manifold.