I'm sure Paul's looks a lot better than mine but you don't necessarily need all that. Just be careful when drilling. I tore mine up a little bit but it didn't affect the plug at all. Where the pinches are, the plug is extra thick so you can hit the plastic and not phase the plug. Obviously I was...
Well, I got it off. I tried for three hours to bend the pinches out with everything I could fit in there to no avail. Drilled them out and it came out without a fight.Deburred the inside below the O-ring sealing surface. I will JB weld the bottom of it once I reassemble it, though the O-ring...
Paul, I was actually considering grinding down the plastic as well. I've been digging at this thing for over two hours and I don't think I've bent it so much as 1*.
I've been trying to bend the pinches out and haven't had any luck. I'm using eyeglass screwdrivers and tiny flatheads. Insane20 what did you use? This metal is relatively thin but it's still fighting me pretty good.
Hey guys,Trying to remove the white plug from my fuel sending unit in order to have AN fittings welded on. I can see the underneath where it appears the metal is "pinching" or holding onto the white plastic receptacle but any attempt to "unpinch" it by bending the metal with a flathead just...
Well, yes and no. If one is a switching ground I would think you would have to wire that ground up to the relay wouldn't you?I'm really surprised nobody else is chiming in, I figured it was something easy I was just overthinking.
Thanks man, my issue is with the first link and the last link you posted. In the first link, he doesn't cut the stock ground and connect it to the relay, he makes his own at Pin 85.In the last one, he cuts the stock thick black ground wire and connects it to the relay at Pin 85.Is there any...
Hey guys,Trying to do my fuel pump rewire and have a question about the two grounds coming out of the GSX fuel pump pigtail. As you know if you did this, you take the car's main ground and hook it up to the relay but you still have two black ground wires coming out of the pigtail that you...
I need to replace the two large bolts that hold the rear differential to the rear subframe. I believe they are an M14 size however I don't know the pitch.Has anybody replaced these that knows off the top of their head? My local hardware store thread gauges only go up to M12 and I couldn't...
I'm using a fuel tank from the 2G GSX. Adding a pump on the other side is a much cheaper and easier way to run dual Walbro 255s. The Double Pumper units hardly fit in there and are a pain in the ass. It would be much simpler to run it this way should the wiring be simple as well.Here is the...
Evo VIII. I mean no disrespect but I'd like to keep this on topic.Nobody has wired up two fuel pump hangers? I could have sworn I read about people doing this...
I posted this in the Newbie Forum but then I realized this wasn't a newbish question and I haven't seen a definitive answer for it yet so I got brave enough to post this here. Mods, if you see the other thread you may lock or delete it, I apologize for my meekness.I am currently undergoing an...
Hey guys,I am now officially starting my AWD swap to my 3G Eclipse and I have a preliminary question I can't seem to find an answer to.I want to use two pump hanger sending units instead of having a single Walbro 255 in the passenger side. That is to say I want to run two Walbro 255s...
I'm just not quite sure of how that can be though. I have heard of people ditching street disc style clutches and picking up pucked clutches or multiple disk clutches and eliminating the clutch lockout problem.
While I won't disagree with the latter part of your statement the former part is incorrect. Clutch lockout is a very well known issue where you cannot hit another gear at a specific range of high RPMs. Mine is between 6k and 6.2k (my rev limiter is 6200 so I do not know above that). He stated it...
If you passed a boost leak test then there is one more place you can check for a vacuum leak, and that is your idle air control valve. I've seen a lot of these high RPM threads tonight and for some reason the IAC is rarely mentioned. It plays a HUGE role in maintaining idle RPM. Regardless of if...
Unfortunately at this point you've done all you can as far as replacing items, but you really need a multimeter to see where power is or where it stops so you can go through further deductive reasoning. If you've got a Harbor Freight near you and yesterday's newspaper you can grab one for free.
What kind of clutch do you have? It sounds to me like you're getting clutch lockout since you said it shifts fine at lower RPMs.For what it's worth, I have found ACT street disc clutches to be absolute garbage. I can't shift above 6K with my ACT 2100HD due to clutch lockout. I should have...
Does it grind when putting the car into gear from a stop as well as downshifting say to come to a stop at a stop sign? Mine grinds only if I downshift into first while moving. For this reason I always just go second to neutral. I've never had any other issues, first gear syncros just seem touchy...
My fans are also ECU controlled and there is still a control module which must be functional for both the fans to work. I know you would be able to tell if you had one though as it's a large box attached to the back of the radiator fan. Wish I had more ideas :/
I was just going to suggest replacing your alternator to battery, battery ground, and chassis grounds with much larger wire as in the "Big 3" upgrade. It's possible one or more of these wires is the culprit to begin with and even if they aren't totally at fault, perhaps the larger AWG would aid...
Forgive me for my ignorance, but is there perhaps a radiator fan control module on the 2Gs? I have a third gen and I have a large module attached to the driver's side radiator fan. When changing out my blowoff valve I must have accidentally disconnected it (had to be already coming loose, not...
Another thing that I'm surprised wasn't mentioned is to check the IAC (idle air control) valve. It's located at the bottom of your throttle body. It sees coolant flow and gets gummed up and can fail over time and it is what controls airflow via inducing a small vacuum leak when you're not...
Mine used to squeal quite a lot too. I just kept tightening the belt until it finally went away. Strange though there was VERY little belt deflection to begin with. I worry now they are too tight, but it's better than the squealing and carrying on. That shit is embarassing.
Are you referring to the two little hoses coming out of the top of the throttle body where it is stamped AEP or whatever? Those are just emissions lines and wouldn't be the root of your problem. They do get brittle and decay overtime and can cause all sorts of idle issues and for the boosted...
I don't think this is true, a lot of people modify their cars to be setup this way but from the factory the fuel pump is only powered when the car is cranking or on.Edit:Hell I never refreshed the page before entering my reply and didn't see luv2rallye's better explanation. My bad.
Yeah sounds like you just bridged two connections as the ions in the water acted as one giant wire and shorted you out. Hopefully you didn't do too much damage, but you should try swapping out the battery if you don't find any visible frying or burning of components/wires.
Since this thread was already bumped and I'm currently painting my setup, I went with a gloss black engine block and a pearl white powdercoated valve cover. The head and transmission are aluminum and should be kept their natural color, as stated before.
The cat can definitely hurt spool a lot. I had a MagnaFlow HFC on my third gen when I first boosted it and despite running the stock Evo VIII wastegate spring pressure (about 12PSI), I was only able to see about 7PSI due to the cat. It got so clogged during the tuning process that it eventually...
My bet is this. I'm using an Evo VIII 16G and this same thing happened to me. The oil, to my knowledge, wouldn't explain why you wouldn't build ANY boost at all.
That all looks correct to me. If you're ever confused, you can always look into a vacuum manifold from Godspeed or Eagle ($25 on eBay) which you can splice into a major vacuum source such as the brake booster. This allows you multiple ports for accessories requiring vacuum such as your...
The only way an O2 sensor throws a code is if the heater circuit is bad. The ECU doesn't know whether it's reading incorrectly or not - it only knows if the sensor itself is heating up through the circuit of the heater wire.
I had the same problem when helping a buddy change his. We just soaked it in PB Blaster and used a pipe braced against the strut with a towel in between and gave it some good elbow grease. It eventually slid out to the end and a few final shoves took it off. Take some sanding paper over the...