Yeah I'm suspecting plug wires.. Honestly don't know when they were replaced last so I'll go ahead and test the whole ignition system and start replacing as needed.

Vacuum at warm idle is right around -22inHg.

Yeah, I don't have much faith in the actuator that's on there right now but I don't see it behaving intermittently like this is.. Still something to check regardless though.

Posting here because it doesn't really fit anywhere else, mods move if you feel appropriate. So here's the deal, I picked up this 97 GST a couple months ago and have been rehabilitating it since then. All boost/intake leaks have been eliminated except for a very small leak at one injector. Plugs...

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You can also use standard diameters if metric is a difficulty. Most of my lines are 3/16, 1/4, and 5/16 IIRC. Length I would recommend measuring yourself since everyone routes their lines a little differently.

If you're measuring resistance on the harness plug, that's just going to give you resistance through the ECU. For the TPS you need to measure resistance at closed and full throttle positions, on the sensor pins themselves. As far as the CAS, though, there is no resistance test that I'm aware of...

Honestly the CEL is not much help in diagnosing a 1G, it only comes on for major emissions related failures (o2 sensor, EGR, spark misfires, etc). Have you checked VFAQ? I'm almost positive they have a full ECU pinout for every DSM ECU. The CAS could have an intermittent output issue, but the...

The only way I've found to test the operation of the CAS is with an oscilloscope and a dealer-only connector, otherwise it's trial and error swapping other units in and out. Sorry I didn't see your other post, I haven't used MMCd in quite a while so I'm not much help there. A bad CAS, though...

No, open loop is when the ECU ignores o2 feedback and calculates fuel needs based on MAF readings from the fuel table programed from the factory.

Okay kids, crankcase ventilation has been beaten to death. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366890I personally run the "improved stock" setup and plan on switching, more than likely, to the "Max relief" setup in the near future. Neither of those, however, have anything to do...

Mine yes, and all emissions equipment removed.

Never resolved unfortunately. Several compression tests were done, boost leak tests, parts changed, and nothing can really be found as a culprit for the pressure translation. I've just adapted my test procedure to work with it, and leave my dipstick up so I don't keep blowing the VC gasket.

You shouldn't, but you'll need something to tune with to compensate for the 2G MAF. If not you will run dangerously lean.

Holy shit that's impressive!

Someone just posted a complete pocket logger setup in the classified section :thumb: You can also test the operation of the TPS with a multimeter.

Not sure from the video why you're saying 1st and 2nd don't work, compared to the movement for 5th and reverse it looks fine. If it's an issue with only certain gears, it's not a clutch issue, but more than likely a shifter/linkage adjustment issue. If it's not going into 1st and 2nd try...

I doubt it's the ISC, I've seen them go out and it's a very different behavior at idle and it doesn't affect much of anything once the throttle plate is open. Vacuum (boost) leaks have to be HUGE to actually make the car shut off. I had a capped 5/16" port on my intake manifold open up and I...

The part of the turbo that has the broken bolts can't be removed from the car separate from the rest of the turbo, like stated before it essentially is the turbo with covers on either side. Just remove the turbo, it's not that hard.

A much simpler way of bleeding it, is just like you would do brakes. Have a helper pump the pedal a few times, hold it, open the bleeder on the slave, close it, release pedal. Repeat until new clean fluid comes out of the bleeder. Also it wouldn't hurt to start with the adjustment out more. I'd...

That's the easy part! Uncomfortable, but easy lol. Follow the clutch lever up to the shaft that goes to the clutch master cylinder, 12mm IIRC to loosen the jam nut and vice grips to adjust the rod one way or the other :thumb:

Generally, yes, that's right. I would still take a look at the ECU first just to make sure, but it definitely sounds like that's the issue.

All you need for ECUFlash (aka ceddymods) is the software ceddy.us, the tactrix open port 2.0 cable tactrix.com, and EVOScan evoscan.com. Along with a lot of research, or someone that's familiar with it to tune your car.

Right, more than likely what's happening is it's leaking at idle, allowing un-metered air into the system. The o2 picks this up as a lean condition and adds fuel to compensate. Then at cruise it doesn't leak (less vacuum) and since the long term fuel trim takes forever to adjust, it sticks rich...

Since you have a 99 you should have a flashable ECU, so ECUFlash/EVOScan is an option you can look into also. Comes out a little cheaper than DSMLink and still has all the functionality an average street/track DSM needs. For injectors it slightly depends, if you're staying with pump gas...

I'd say unlikely that it's a CV bearing or carrier bearing. That's the tricky part of diagnosing wheel bearings, depending on alignment characteristics and other things the noise can behave opposite of what you expect. If it's as bad as it sounds you'll probably be able to tell if the bearing is...

Sounds to me like you found the problem: the infamous Greddy leak. As an initial check, you can cap that fitting good and tight, and pull the negative battery cable to reset your fuel trims. See how it drives then. After, or instead, you can pull the BOV and disassemble (just 6 Allen head bolts)...

Test your ISC motor with a voltmeter, I believe there's a write-up on it on VFAQ. Is the coolant temp gauge still dipping/jumping? If so it's possible it could be ECU related. It wouldn't hurt to pull it for a quick visual check.

Have you run a log to see if the narrow sim is still cycling once warmed up? The wideband reading and black exhaust sound like they match up though, so I wouldn't really suspect that. Take a look at MAF Hz, coolant temp, TPS, and see if anything is out of the ordinary. I don't remember if MMCd...

It's been swapped at some point then. Only 98-99 came with flashable black boxes from the factory.

Closed loop wouldn't affect WOT, but coolant temp is used by the ECU for fuel enrichment. If the ECU is seeing wildly inaccurate coolant temps it would cause either lean or rich conditions that could cause a misfire. Our cars also hate a lean idle, so that could cause a surging idle if it's...

^^Clutch adjustment/master cylinder adjustment.

I noticed your coolant gauge dip when the revs dropped, that could definitely be causing problems if your sensor isn't working properly. That surging idle sounds more like a bad ISC, but could be related to the coolant sensor jumping around. How did you check for boost leaks?

Just a few things to point out- for the 16g I would look for a rebuilt MHI turbo. I can't speak for CXRacing, but I know the reason GodSpeed turbos are inexpensive is because they rent balanced from the factory and because of that tend to self destruct easily. You could take it to a machine shop...

"I wanna stick my penis in your anus" hahaha gotta love Eminem..If I'm out for a cruise, usually chill hip hop like Atmosphere or Grieves. If I'm getting on it metal \m/ (>_<) \m/ Bleeding Through, As They Burn, Whitechapel, As I Lay Dying to name a few :D

It sounds like something is forcing you into open loop. Can you log coolant temps, o2 voltage, and throttle position?

Actual spool-up of the turbo isn't the problem, just a lack of power during that time. I do have logs, but the filetypes aren't Tuners friendly (TunerProRT and Jackal). They're hard to compare though, since one is MAF Hz and the other MAP and IAT.. I will have to look between the logs more...

^ They aren't talking about the stock gauge.Turn the key to ON but don't start the car. If the gauge jumps straight to max, then it's wiring/sender related. If it just goes to "0" then it's your actual oil pressure.

Those should be the only drivers you need. COM3 is the port I use also so that should work fine. I've been using Link's 1G logging cable with great success so hopefully you'll have luck with your brother's.

That's more than I would like to have, I'd go ahead and fill them just to reduce the chance of it becoming a problem in the near future.

Have you tried the cable with a known working logging setup to eliminate that as a possible cause? Verified drivers and settings within TunerPro? The COM port can be different between machines, but generally only the one that's plugged in will show up in the configuration box.

So I recently switched to speed density (yay!) and I'll just say I'm loving it! However after the switch I've noticed a difference that I can't really pin down to any particular cause. Running my clipped MHI big 16g previously with the MAF tune power would roll on fairly smooth from ~0psi to...

With AEM's units you have to choose one option from their settings (5v wideband signal, narrowband sim signal, etc.) so if you're planning on logging AFR's before you get Link you'll definitely have issues. If you don't plan on logging until you get Link, then you can install it in the o2...

Hard to diagnose from the videos; the easiest way to check carrier bearings is while they're bolted up try to move the drive shaft up and down. Mine didn't show symptoms (the infamous "clunk" or any other noises) but with the bearings secure I had probably 1-2" total freeplay in each carrier...

Sorry, the particular voltage cell that may be incorrect. After watching my wideband VERY closely, it seems the lean spot happens ever so instantly after the actual miss though, so I'm now suspecting an ignition related miss.

Not necessarily the ISC being bad/not working, but occasionally internal leaks can happen mainly in the FIAV.I thought about fuel delivery too, even though logged voltage stays between 13.4-13.8. I understand the "stock" ECU code uses interpolation, you think that would be enough of a range...

That's kind of a tough find.. You might have the best luck contacting Innovate directly for a replacement, I've noticed people don't give up their Innovate stuff easily ;)

You can install everything except the injectors without needing a tune, just keep the boost low until you get injectors and a way to tune. There's no way to run larger-than-stock injectors without a way to compensate (DSMLink, AFC, ceddy mods, etc) you'll run so rich the car probably won't...

I have almost the identical thing happening on my car. Very irritating for me since I'm self-tuned and it looks like a tuning error to others. I'm locked open loop also, and see a lean blip when it stumbles. I doubt it's plugs or wires, I'm running month old NGK wires and BR7ES's gapped to .020"...