yup im using the stock feed and return line right now. im going to send you a pm

I appreciate it! Yeah sucks your on the other side of PA. I did read the ECM article you just sent about the wb. Mine acts just as that says bounces all over the place from good to lean back and fourth quickly as I’m sure you saw in the log I posted. So maybe to fix that I need to adjust my o2...

Hmm...okay. I’ll checked that link and searched for the wideband info. A lot of info in there. I honestly don’t even know where to start to verify this is setup right. Is there a way I can verify the calibration? Should I change the way the wideband is setup? I followed a write up on here back...

It has its own vac source from the intake manifold. I had someone else say it could be that the stock return is restricting and that’s why I’m having issues. Idk if that could be a possibility. But I feel like plenty of people have used stock feed and stock return without issues. I read through...

what do you think would cause that issue I’m having then with the pressure? I pulled one of the plugs and this is what is looks like right now.

Yeah I’m running a fuel pressure in car as well. So I’m able to see it. Another thing I noticed was if I use link with car off and activate fuel pump my pressure will sit right at 43. Then I turn the car on and the pressure is at like 47-48psi back and fourth At idle, is that normal??

Does that look like that might be the issue? Right now I have the wideband sensor under the drivers seat area in the test pipe.

It has the numbers haha. It’s a normal digital AEM wideband. It displays the numerical readout. But like I mentioned if it goes either to rich or lean for What the gauge can display it will show three dashes instead of numbers till it’s back in range. As far the the voltages and global deadtime...

Yes it is a wideband gauge. And that wideband will read 3 dashes at any point if to rich or lean for the gauge to read it will just show three dashes. Yup car has the High z Fic 2150s on pump right now. I’ve attached a photo for what my injector voltages are at. As far as global fuel that is at...

Hmm ok...and the gauge will go full sweep red. It’s the AEM digital gauge so you get the three dashes.

Car is on pump gas right now. Pump is rewired. And yup stock feed and return lines.

Hey guys having some fuel related issue and can’t seem to narrow it down. The car right now has FIC 2150s and a walbro 450. I was having an issue every time the turbo would start to spool as soon as I hit 5k I just get back firing and breaking up and it’s lean. At first I thought it was maybe...

Ok I will do that. I did adjust that clutch stop thread rod at the top a decent amount to give that pedal more travel when it comes up but maybe I could go a tad more. The stop on the pedal itself has to just come up enough to barely be touching that little button right? Here is a photo of how...

Hey guys update....so I actually followed the Jacks Transmission clutch pedal and master cylinder adjustment video, a great video on adjusting. Followed that and the pedal feels much better. I’m guessing it was in fact a clutch drag issue causing it to shutoff. The RPMs drop ever so slightly...

Have a QM twin disk in my car. I’m curious if this sounds like I may have the clutch pedal adjusted incorrectly. The engine is brand new. Few passes around the block is all it has on it. But having an issue where I would press the clutch and the car would die or try to die. I thought I was over...

After it starts I’d let it warmup then do an oil change right away as well. Really if the motor was sealed there really shouldn’t be any issues with it. I had a 7bolt in my car that sat for a similar time period. I want to say like maybe 15 years. There’s guys that pull cars out of junkyards and...

Yeah I had the hoodie awhile back with the 2G on it. Put it through the dryer and it shrank a little to much, would love to get another but I guess the design isn’t available anymore :(

I’d also do a boost leak test.

Have you tried “Miller Import Parts” or “DSM Partout”? One of those guys may have it! Good luck!

Yup very easy! Loosen the nut on top. And tighten down the Allen bolt to increase pressure, if you have DSM link you can leave everything hooked up. Turn the key on, leave the car “off” and turn the fuel pump on in link to set your pressure.

If he can make that shirt in black and do a black hoodie with the same logo my prayers will be answered. Even if maybe we could get a group buy to see if enough people want it that would be cool!

Hey guys I was curious who is in charge of the DSM shirts and hoodies? In the past I had the hoodie with the rear of the 2G on the back of the hoodie. I outgrew it and I wanted to get another but I guess they aren’t available anymore. Was curious if they would ever return? I also really want the...

Very nice build. How much of the harness this you have to extend? I was always under the impression that the engine harness there wasn't to much soldering involved. More depinning and relooming it. Because everything should stay the same distance no? I did my fusebox harness over the winter...

They actually just moved locations as well. Josh is a good guy but very very busy. Just keep trying to get ahold of him and he will answer. He probably gets a ton of emails etc.

Sylent--Assassin I mostly play Call of duty!

No problems at all no worries I get it! I'm glad you sent it to me. Thanks for the info again!

I am putting four in. Okay got it so if I do goto connect some with the cig lighter I need to replace that fuse with a higher amp one. Also thank you for the link. It wasn't the main question I guess I could have left the dimmer part out and did searching but I thought I'd include it in my...

Having trouble finding an answer to this... I was looking at the STM pigtail fuses for power to my AutoMeter mechanical gauges. Now it appears to be plug and play. Put it in the fusebox and run the wires to it etc. doesn't seem like you have to even cut into the harness at all. Seems like a much...