I'll take one with the "mitsubishi" lettering in the sandblast finish if you have it available.

Updated the list and some prices.

Mofugas Shifter bushing set. These are reproductions of the Mofugas bushings that allow a 3000gt shifter to be bolted into a 1g DSM or GVR4. Two sets available.$35 per set

Bump. Still available.

Updated this list. Everything here is still available.

Bump. Make an offer.

17" Kosei K1 wheels Will fit Galant VR4 and some other mitsubishis, etc. Have some scrapes in the finish but overall good shape. No bends or curbing, etc.$350

1g head machined for +1mm valves and fresh resurface. Came on a built 6 bolt I bought. I swapped to a 2g head and took the cams and springs/retainers off this one. Includes what you see in pics.$300

$350

Evo 9 suspension with TEIN lowering springs. Rears have been modified to bolt straight into a 1g/GVR4.I bought these a couple years ago from a member to use on my car and never got around to installing them. They are still hanging in my parts building.$400

I'm in Savannah and have lots of parts for 1g/2g/gvr4's. LMK what you need.

-Garrett GT3582. Balling bearing with precision .63 exhaust housing. Includes water/oil lines and 2.5" o2 housing $950 -Bullseye/Borg S259. Has a SS bullseye exhaust housing. $650 Can include nice 2.5" o2 housing for additional price. -3" Catback exhaust for FWD 1g. $260 -2g MAS, K&N filter...

Nice hatch! You don't see many of these on here. Mine isn't as purty, but it came AWD from the factory. Very fun car with a basic 4g63 swap and minimal mods!

Happens occasionally with the open downpipe. :coy:

First thing to do in a situation like this is to check for boost leak. Second, fix all the leak you didn't even know you had. Third, adjust the biss the correct way. Very easy with dsmlink and not too bad without it. Just follow the instructions on VFAQ. Good luck.

The 90 style cooler is great. If you want to improve it you could just go with a larger cooler itself.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Yeah, tuners has enough smart A.S.S people here, I don't need to add to it. :p Anyway, I recognize you from gvr4.org. It never a good idea to rush a build, but whats done is done. It could be an easy problem the could be sorted out for very little cost. Just go to a shop and ask to have the...

You really should test each component separately instead of just throwing other parts on the car. You now have too many variables changed to easily diagnose the problem.

Let us know what you end up deciding on. I, too, am in the market for a new manifold.

I am currently trying the none projected tip NGKs on my car due to the hype on EVOm. They seem to work just as good as the BPR7es so far. I'm gonna leave them in for a while to see how they hold up in the long run.

If the clear has been missing in certain areas for a while, the base color may actually be dead and have to be resprayed. Talk to a quality paint shop to see what your options are.

Like these guys said, check the fuse (and ac relays) first and then check the charge of refrigerant on the system.

That is in fact the number 4 cylinder. I would not run the motor again, even for diagnoses until the pan is dropped and the bearings and oil are checked. You could be damaging the parts that you are hoping to reuse by doing this.

Go with just a stock head and save the rest of your money for a future turbo conversion or a turbo car.

Something is probably bent. I would use new oem parts to begin with if you are not sure. This will save you a headache.

Take it to a reputable shop and having the cooling system checked out. Thermostat is a necessity too.

Post some pics but I doubt it will be worth the effort.

Fuel pump relay?

Look pretty decent. We dont have to worry about not having a cat here either!

I agree. There are plenty of other ways to make more power with less hassle. I well designed intercooler setup is all you really need.

If you dial in your setup correctly it can be a very accurate estimate.

Let us know what you find.

Good job figuring it out yourself. This is where dsmlink would have saved hours and hours of hassle. You can just log any sensor to make sure it is working correctly.

Change your spark plugs and gap the new ones correctly. Most likely your main issue.

Wow. Ive never seen one like that!

Looks pretty nice.

I always boost leak test before dealing with idle issues. It takes care of the problem most of the time.

+1 on video. Do you have a wideband o2?

I'd be curious to see the difference too.

It's easier too if you remove the bolt holding the strut to the bottom fork instead of trying to remove the whole thing as an assembly. This way you dont even have to take the bottom fork out of the car, just let it drop down, remove old strut and install new. done!

Did you find the issue yet?

Thanks for the link!

You need to use factory style lug nuts on the factory wheels. The parts store may sell them but they would be behind the counter, not in a kit out on the floor. Tell them what you need.

I'm here in Savannah too. Don't own a dsm anymore but do have 2 4G63 cars currently. :sneaky: -Ryan

Does that hose run to the cruise control actuator?

Seems a bit high, but if it is nice in person and you like it then go for it.