I use the above method also and don't have an issue, I do re oil everything a every few months but I have block and heads that still look new after sitting for years.

That manifold looks like it has some cracks in it maybe no good anyway, do you have better pics of top and bottom? I would just get a wire/bottle brush and try to knock off that rust and scaling in the runners and collector and spray it out with brake cleaner before trying to use it, that is if...

Your door switch is probably bad and or has a bad connection. And it sounds like the other issues are just bad connections, check the bulb, plugs, wiring and the switch itself could be failing.

Seven bolts are known to crank walk and kill themselves, but for me I don't care most of them are fine and I prefer 1gb body style and you can always swap to a six bolt. It really depends on the available cars and how they were maintained, what body style you like, what parts are available near...

Sounds like an issue with your alternator or voltage regulator, which may be ecu controlled so there could be issue with that as well, not familiar with 3rd Gen at all but I do believe there are some similarities to a 2nd gen. You may want to try a 3rd Gen forum or evo forum if you don't get...

Yes the smaller quarter glass or cover not sure exactly how they are made, but rare and look good imo.

You can test your isc using a digital multimeter, there is write up on vfaq on how to do it. I would first start by looking for vacuum leaks, build yourself a boost leak tester and see if any air is entering or exiting after the maf.

Sounds like a few issues possibly. Since the isc is removed it may run rough until it's warmed up not a big deal since you should warm a car up to begin with anyway. Your bov not being recirculated can cause a drop in idle on deceleration which you know. The diaphragm in those knockoff greddy...

First I would be checking the condition of the engine, inspect plugs, compression test I'm sure you know the drill. Maintenance is key with these cars if you don't know the cars history I would definitely be changing the timing belt and tensioner. You also could be down on quite a bit of power...

I have never once come across this size bolt, especially on a dsm. What are you working on??? I'm pretty sure they don't exist.

Did you check to see what cylinders were not firing. Get a compression tester if you don't already have one. You said car sat a while, I would check and make sure your injectors are not plugged. If your ecu is bad it is very easy to tell. Use a multimeter on the diagnostic port to pull code and...

That's very odd to me about it not wanting to go into first, have you checked your cable and levers on the trans to make sure nothing is obstructing their movement. You could also try select gears on the trans with cables detached.

Pull your plugs out and check for moisture and do a compression test to start. You may have messed something up in the electrical system instead, check you air filter also and see if it got wet. What do you mean you lost first gear? Is it auto or manual?

That pic sucks but it looks like a Hahn race craft super 16g or 20g, it's good quality (factory mhi centers with hrc housings). If that is what it is.

Also consider getting yourself a quality manifold (FP race manifold) Can't beat the price, I had a pacesetter years ago and it cracked within a couple months.

Does it smell rich? Don't remember if you said it or not. And if you have an exhaust leak get it fixed also, not healthy for you or the car.

I bet it's your valve stem seals.

Does everything shut down including all electrics or just engine?

Have you verified your mechanical and ignition timing yet and you should replace the throttle body shafts seal and biss. Do you have any cel's and have you scanned it for any stored codes.

You may have accidentally got a rail kit for another car/engine but if the bolt holes line up just go to the hardware store and get some new bolts and spacers. I'm sure it won't cost more than five bucks.

Check vfaq as well, it is a great source for info and pics they have a write up on testing iacv. Also just run through basics like mechanical and ignition timing, test your tps and coolant temp sensor. Are you sure no boost or vac leaks, get a can of starting fluid and spray it around vac lines...

I would definitely agree with a stock frame turbo. What are your goals with the car? A 2g head will more than likely be more than enough if your not going ridiculous power, it also has better flow characteristics and can improve bottom and midrange. Your goals will also determine if you want to...

You should have a total of three cts one for the Gauge one for the ecu and one for the a/c. You need to check out the one for the ecu, should be on the thermostat housing with the one for the Gauge just make sure your swapping the right one. You need to get yourself a digital multimeter and...

Are you still running stock maf? And if you are and your bov is not recirculating back into intake pipe it can cause some idle and stalling issues, I don't think that would cause it to run rich like that but just a heads up. A failing coolant temp sensor can also cause rich conditions. Have you...

what type of air fuel gauge(wide band or narrowband)? And also if you do not have an afpr you could be potentially over running the stock regulator, which would introduce more fuel on top of having 550's. Also in the picture I can't tell, but is you bov recirculated?

I don't know if you have resolved your issue yet, but you said in an earlier post that you were not recirculating your bov and if it is not it can cause stalling issues. Everybody in here has had good recommendations on things you can try already so start with the basics.

Have you a checked your ignition timing? Did you adjust you tps and biss properly? Is your idle switch adjusted and is your fiav good? And spraying starting fluid around vacuum Lines Is Better Than Water To Test For Vacuum leaks, Your Idle Will Raise If You FIND A Leak.

Since this thread is nine years old I don't know how many of these guys still frequent the site, but I'm sure you will need to repair the area it bolts to if it's all rusted out.

You cannot just purchase a v2 cable without proving authenticity of the chip, but last time I checked they were still available through ecm tuning(I need one also). It may be a smarter decision to try and upgrade to v3, it has more features and is more user friendly. If you stick with v2...

I don't have any real updates yet, the insurance company still won't come up a little so I have not settled yet. The adjuster is telling me their is nothing she can do since the evaluation came from a third party which doesn't make sense to me , she would not have a job then. Can anyone she'd...

I'm not familiar with ceddy mods, never used it so I can't help you there. The amount of boost you can run depends on a fuels resistance to knock and 91 is on the lower end but it also depends on turbo, timing, air/fuel... there is no set rules on the amount of boost you can run in correlation...

The insurance company contacted me today with their offer of roughly $5k and I keep the car or $5100 and they keep it. The way it worked out is they put a value of about $4400 and the rest was taxes and some other stuff I don't fully understand yet. So I am going to try to get the value up over...

Do you have the block totally disassembled? If the bottom end is still together and you never had an issue with it and it has good compression I would leave it. You can pop the con rod caps off and just check the bearings just for piece of mind. What's your plans or goals for the car/engine.

As of right now I am still waiting to here back from them. The car had no insurance because we don't drive it, it was just a toy that sat mostly. Eventually the plan was to use it as a drag car. I even had a full other drive train for it. I will just wait and see what they offer and go from...

Ya I planned on buying it back. To me it looked like no more than 1500 in damage, I went to school for auto body and paint and did the Icar program which is used for estimating but that was a long time ago I don't remember everything that goes into estimations. What I don't understand is why...

Thanks guys I really appreciate the comments, and my reasoning behind putting this up was for other people to see if they ever get put in a similar situation. The shop called me a couple hours ago and said that the insurance had put a value around $5k on the car, which is amazing. They did say...

They called this morning and said they are having trouble putting a value on the car, so they are expanding their search for similar cars. I do not have the car in my possession at the moment it's at the body shop, so I can't pull parts off even if I wanted to. I did a search last night of my...

A couple years ago I was able to get keys made for an eclipse I bought that had none. I went to the dealer with the vin and got the code for a locksmith to cut, they may not have this info anymore but it's worth a shot. It's easier than replacing the locks. Good luck.

I only paid $700 for it but it had a bad head gasket, the previous owner wanted $4k before he found out it had a hg issue. Pretty much all the dsm around are between 700 and 2000. My aunt just totaled her avalon which was loaded and real good shape also and the insurance tried to base the...

The driver door and quarter in front of rear tire got pushed in just a little. I'm trying to figure out how to load pics, it won't let me atm. It's not the car in my avatar. I would be happy around the 5k range but it is probably wishful thinking. They should be calling tomorrow morning with...

Hey guys, I need some help with trying to figure out what my car approximately could be worth. My buddies girlfriend backed into it the other day and her insurance is covering the cost of repair but the shop is thinking it's more than likely going to be totaled. I have tried to value it through...

That compressor wheel does look to be 16g style vs 14b which has all the fins spaced evenly

That appears to be a 16g but it may be cheap ebay one. There Should be a serial number on the compressor cover somewhere. It may be difficult to get 350 out of a 16g bit it is possible.

I would definitely check the coolant temp sensor( the one for the ecu). Check basics like iugrad said and timing for sure. You can verify that the ecu is working properly and pull any codes using a digital multimeter on the diagnostic port. Also a turbo timer has nothing to do with this and...

You should still perform a boost leak test, you can have leaks and the gauge read constant. What type of gauge are you using? What your describing sounds like a boost leak and/or timing related so I would verify your ignition timing and mechanical timing.

I will buy anything I can make a buck on, if you like it buy it fix drive till you save enough to get a gsx plus you should be able to make a good chunk selling this car. My first DSM was a 1g non turbo for $90 it just needed ecu, I liked it so much I went and got a tsi since then I have had...

The balance shaft doesn't need to disappear, but it may be a good idea. every engine is different i Have a buddy make 634 hp on stock bottom end, but it would probably be a good idea to go with forged rods pistons for reliability and since your engine is already apart. The mods to achieve this...

I think you need to be a little more specific with your question. The only thing I can say is you need to proceed by installing them. You might get better answers if you elaborate a bit more.

You should run a compression and leakdown test to see how healthy your engine is. I am assuming they were referring to boost creep, which there are remedies for but upgrading the turbo should not hurt anything as long as you keep the boos at safe levels. Is your exhaust a catback or turboback.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-horsepower-ugrades-2g-4g63t.480196/this link should direct you to most of the stuff you need to know to start with, and what are your plans and goals for the car. if the engine checks out good there is no real reason to start modding internals unless your...