That would be very frustraiting as i have already had to replace it last summer.
During startup it shoots straight to lean, during driving i can sometimes get it to ready, but most of the time its just lean or boucing between 13.2 during cruise.
So Ive spent the better part of two days trying to fix this issue with no reward. Safc2, aem wideband, 2g weisco pistons, 274 cams, 2g maf, walbro pump. 6-an from tank to filter 4-an from areomotive regulator to tank, apr set to 50psi at the moment with rising rate vacuum line installed to...
Well i should be done with my pedal swap sometime this week so ill be sure to let you know. I need to get it buttoned up for a track day next month so it wont be leaving my bay untill all this weight is out.
holy cow I didn't even see the other two modules. when you unpluged it were you able to start the car no problem? I havent pulled mine out because I'm halfway through my clutch pedal install and cant test if the car starts yet.
Did yours have an antenna wire going up the A piller on the driver...
*Specific model used
---Pressure plate type:
-->HD-Series
---Disk type:
-->TZ-Series full Kevlar
*Specific model flywheel used
-->Fidanza Aluminum
*Duration of usage AND mileage on clutch
-->550 miles over 5 weeks
*Power levels and Drag ET's/MPH if available
--350hp, not time...
I just dont want to jump into some huge fast car class with my beginner skillset and deal with a harsh learning curve. But going back to stock is not something i want any part of so i suppose i will jump in feet first. Still have another few months till the car is up to my stardard of saftey so...
So my goal for next year is to have my 1g fully capable of racing in some events. I started to mod it, just replacing whatever was broken with aftermarket parts. Then started doing some hard research into my class type and see what other mods I can do and it seems like I may have accidently...
I took the 2 front seats out of my 91 1GA and i found under my driver side seat is a 4x6 mitsubishi computer that has terrible corrosion on all the connectors, one side of the harness goes into my OEM looking alarm switch that says things like "impact alarm" on it, another part of the harness...
I test everything that goes into my car, why do a job twice when i can be done once? Its a new friction, used disk, but since the clutch the previous owner put in didnt hold shit for torque id like to be certain to outrule a flywheel failure.
I still cant find a proper spec online, but i guess...
Im trying to get my fidanza alum flywheel step height checked and cut but none of the machine shops i take it to will touch it. Does anybody know what kind of lathe i need to find to get this cut, or what the step height of a new fidanza wheel is?
^lol'd
great read, very few times do you see people who should have stopped a long time ago, keep at it and over come some turmoil, or lack of knowledge. keep at it man.
that front end does have me thankful im a few states away though..
Thank you, i figured it was just a crappy generic clutch problem.And i read into how the kevlar sbc clutches work with alumnium flywheels, the cons didnt merit me spending another 500 or so to replace a new flywheel. The car is not a dragster, i just road course it, if heat becomes an issues...
So i bought this car from a guy who did nothing but install parts on his gsx for 11 years in his garage. During his ownership the car drove 3000 miles, so i can only assume that this clutch is basically new.
Enter me, i buy it from him and drive it home. By the time i got on the highway i began...
i purchased my 2 owner 91 gsx for 1000 and went 130mph at the strip that same night. But my friends all bought their 1gs for 4-6k. just depends how good you are at waiting for your dream car deal.
I find short shifters to be an expensive couple words to put in a for sale ad. With solid bushings and a nice properly function transmission you should never need one. I spent weeks trying to find a stock one for my 1g since the PO threw the original out. so much better usability.
I had ment the outside of the block, even my spare one at 65k on it was still covered in just filth. Insides dont bother me, in fact in i could have a candle that smelled like a freshly removed head...
Mines proving to be a nice core as well, im just shooting for 450 at most in this build so im...
i just tore my spare motor apart the other day, these stock motors get so filthy i just want to power wash the whole thing before i even touch it.
good thread so far!
my bet in on linkage. based on the fact that 1/3/5 are all on the forward portion of the gearbox, 5th gear may just be able to slip in, because otherwise, 1 and 3 have nothing in common really.
your best bet is to take it to a body shop, and have them put it on the frame machine to check it out, and if it is out, i was only quoted 300$ on my bmw to do it after an accident, negligable if your car is worth much to you.
Already bought it;)I went to the car, removed the boot, slave cylinder, and pressed the fork so it was lying against the pressure plate it pointed more to the passenger side of the car.
This would presume a new fork or shim is needed?
i stand corrected, my car has the fidanza flywheel with the steel plate. i thought it was an act thing. it just seems to not rev like a lightweight flywheel should.replaced the master, slave, and installed the SS line last month chasing down the clutch problem.
ordered that clip, and pivot ball.the previous owner installed an act 2600 with act alum flywheel. i hate the clutch, flywheel is meh, if its in good shape and only needs a slight machine ill keep it, if not im switching to the fidanza steel lightweight.
good call, pivot ball for sure. but are the clutch forks a big issue with these cars? its hard to justify 90$ for a nice one when i have no real reason to replace it, in terms of wear and tear.
when i do a job. i dont like to do anything around it twice, just the way i am, so what im looking for is to cover anything possible i can do during a trans job.
so far i have, Southbend clutch, oem TOB. extremepsi shift base bushings, and linkage bushings, a rebuilt transfer case, new axle...
Solid bushings and a nice shift ball is more than what you need for a manual, i personally do not enjoy short shift kits either. mostly because they are difficult to get alligned properly once installed, and ive seen a few fools ruin their trans that way.
solid bushings and a nice trans get you...
So, im new to dsm tuning, my previous cars have all had standalones or similar units. When i bought my 91 gsx, it came with a SAFC installed. which is alright, but it is nowhere near what i like to use controlling wise, very limited, although does the job under boost for fuel management.
I...
true that, removing the stock radio and speakers will be 4x as much weight reduction as any wiring elimination.
in my last road course car i did a full harness, interior strip, and removed heat and a/c.
just made it anoying to drive to car shows and unsellable.
also tracing wiring issues with...
Fuel is some blue top injectors ,walbro 255.stock everything else.
Today i re tested the boost test and my damn throttle is leaking. Had to use soap water to find the leak, so im going to rebuild it this week and see what happens. Im betting it will aleviate a large part of the issue.
Well, no it cant? The only thing that can cause a wideband to be rich, is richness? Its not shorted in the wiring, it reacts correctly to the throttle applied.
So, 1991 gsx, stock compression forged motor, crower oversized valves, springs, retainers, stock cams, 20g turbo.
No egr, with blockoff, pcv deleted. Correctly ran vacuum lines to the WG, bov fpr. Safc tuned.So when i start the car, it starts up fine, idles fine at 1700 warming up, but my...
So about a month ago i purchased a 2nd owner 1991 gsx with 120K. it was unmolested except for a buscher built bottom end, 16g turbo, punisment BFMIC and dynomax exhaust. it had been in his garage for 7 years untouched. so i picked it up for...1000$:rocks: and drove it home.
a bit about me. i...
do yourself the favor, either build it the way you want it now, saving up while this motor dies. or do a stock rebuild and build a block on the side, doing two halfway builds it just gonna cost you more in the long run.
it all really depends on your tire/suspension setup, and what you intend to do with it. on my 1g i run 255s so mine is set at about 1.7" lower to make sure my fenders dont contact my tires.
on my srt4 i road coursed i had my ride set to 3.5" lower because i rolled my fenders enough to clear...
if you replaced the TOB the culprit could be a bad axle or motor mount causing the axles to bind up and groan.
but the fact you replaced the TOB and it still makes the noise when you let the clutch out sitting still leads me to belive your TOB failed shortly after install for one reason or...