Had to dent water pipe some. The 40 pulls so much f*cking harder(obviously) at the same boost and spools just about the same.

Before this setup I had an FP manifold, bep. 55, 7 blade hx35, bc 272s....that was the best Dailey driven setup I had. No wait for boost. I prefer the hx40 twinscroll though....

I have a T/S manifold with 1.5 runners, 6 blade hx40 in the t3 18cm housing...i don't have access to my laptop at the moment but it spool ridiculously fast. Once it it's 5 psi, 30 psi is there like right now. When I get the garage I'll post some real info.

The links not working. What year accord?

I always love seeing yours posts! Maybe market this? I made a 4 spider for an auto. So far so good but I haven't opened it up in about 2500 miles. Im half tempted to now and check it out.

Did the accord ones work for the 1g Chump?

If I'm not mistaken the front clutch piston has two oil ports. That is where you line up the missing teeth. The missing teeth are for cooling purposes.Now that I think about it the piston has a bunch of holes and it shouldn't matter.

No, the fuel pump was held on the hanger by a zip tie. There wasn't enough force to hold the pump up in the metal tube.

I agree! It must have been hold just enough at 43 psi, but once the pressure started raising 1 to 1 it just couldn't hold it. I'm very surprised it even held in there. SMH a zip tie...

Every time the pressure increased it pushed the pump out of the tube causeing pressure let off.

Fuel Pump was loose on the hanger! Previous owner decided a zip tie would be efficient enough to hold it. Thanks for the tips!

Its the stock basemap boost is set around 15. Full 3" exhaust. Turbo is in good shape no excessive shaft play. We BLT to 25psi.

Sorry. Mods are cams(unknown), new bpr 7's .028 gap, 450cc inj., 17c, NO boost leaks. 3" exhaust. Jackal/ostrich.

Ive got a buddies car here that will not go into boost. If I slowly press the throttle I can go to any rpm/boost. As soon as I stomp it and gets to boost it stutters, bogs out, dies. Ive put a new ECU wiring harness and all sensors in this car with no luck. I'm no newb and have never had a...

Definitely keep checking the forums. There is always good quality parts and good prices out there. If you want to stay somewhat stock look for a 16g and at least a 2g manifold.

I used energy suspension 5 SPD inserts on my auto.

Great job man! Your shits doing work as always.

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tcucodes.htm

Check the fluid warm and in neutral. Use ATF +4. as for the vvac line thats hard for me to say. ALSO you say your car is stuck in first (or second)??? if so thats prob a bad TCU. If it has all the gears and shifts properly except into OD then its prob end clutch related. If it only has one...

If it was a bad TCU I would assume that it would cause either 2nd or 3rd gear limp mode

The transmission dipstick is right in front of the trans mount the bolts to the frame rail and where the shift cable connects to the gear selector lever. At this point I would assume its the just then end clutches shot. Does the Trans shift act normal other than that? Im unsure of what the...

Does the Transmission shift into overdrive? How many times does it shift start to finish and whats the RPM at 50?When was the last fluid change?Have you checked the TCU for any codes?Sounds to me either the End Clutches(OD) May be shot or the TCU may not be functioning right.

I would love to see more alternative fuels. The time is now. It's 2015 for flips sake we have relied on fossil fuels for over 100 years. It's time to move on.

It all depends on your goals and parts. Stock motor? Do you have cams? What size injectors etc. I loved my 35 in the bep housing on my 2.3 although up top it seemed to loose power but, that could be a number of things. For the 40 I went with the stock t3 18cm housing and a twin scroll...

If you still have the original caps just replace them in the correct order.

From right of the starter to about 8 inches behind the top right bolt was the nastiest and its still holding. Just make sure a pro does it with a really good tig welder.

I have had my buddy weld a few up for me...nothing to it he says(coming from a PRO). So with that said make sure you take it to someone thats trusted welding cast pieces and you will be just fine.

Post up a slip, im sure someone can say if you went faster or not.

^^^agreed. Either get a new ECU or have that one looked at.

anyone with good results?

Whats the fluid level like? Did you check the pan for any shavings? Reverse uses the Front Clutch and Low-reverse brake. It may be something clogging the VB. I would suggest doing 2nd to 3rd gear pulls.

I swapped out a set of the 3g revised lifters for the Keltalon modded 1g lifters, and I have no added valve train noise. As far as I can tell Keltalons mods work and work well...

If you wire it into the ECU, link will read it. Its been awhile since I wired it up, but it works awesome. PLX is where its at

Awesome thanks!

Does anyone know which port is outlet TO the trans cooler and which one is the inlet FROM the trans cooler on the transmission? aka the hot flow and cold flow. I am adding a thermostat for my fan. Thanks!

I have one if your interested PM me, Ill get you squared away.

Whatever came of this??

If the TC wasn't seated in the pump right it will take out the bearings and/or the gears inside the pump, causing it not to pump fluid. If it is pumping take a small sample of what comes out and look at it see if the fluid looks shiny.

This is about the crap casting quality of FP's compressor covers, not oiling issues, compressor wheel contact, thrust bearings etc...Its been known FP is Chinese parts....

Did you guys remove the transmission from the motor? If so the TC may not have seated the whole way in the pump. I see it all the time doing tans. If the TC wasnt seated correctly in the trans it take out the gears inside.

Take one of the trans cooler lines off make sure its pumping fluid still...you may have blown the pump...

Great numbers man! Are you injecting any water? What mixture of meth/nitro do you run?

definitely, get a shift kit for the trans!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/stroker-destroker-and-long-rod-engine-basics.461017/

amazing how a "stage 1" cam nets almost as much as a "stage 3" cam! Maybe because the LSA is so much tighter on comp cams than any other? 108 vs 110????

holy shi*t batman 2 gallon surge with 12an feed, yet to boot 10an to the rail. no restrictions there!

Have you tried to add another stock starter plate? When you mated the trans to the motor, did you have to pull the converter to the flexplate? The TC should spin freely when everything its all bolted up. Are you reusing the TC?

Is the alternator new? Is it relocated?When I did my swap I bought one from advance. And with the o2 housing being there so hot it actually messed the alt up(like 3 days) I returned it for a new one and put some heat duct aheild on it and hadn't had a problem. Sometimes you will get a bad new...

Here is your sale. Bought a Sim 2.3 stroker 1050 fic, never tuned a car ever. I adjusted the base map for the 1050's, started it let it warm up. Looked at the log made minor adjustments drove the car for 1,500 mi till I blew the torque converter out and muffed the trans. Ive never had the var @...

These guys aren't DSM graveyard. I agree that it isn't acceptable but mistakes do happen. You know they care when they make those mistakes right!