usually the rods will have threads so they can be adjusted inside the clip, I guess just not so much on dsm's. Are the rods in the correct spot facing the right way? You might have a bend facing one way that needs to face the other, or top and bottom switched around?
The man has a good theory lol. Just hose it down with some brake cleaner so you arent looking at old gunked up oil, then start it and watch for leaks. Also maybe invest in a good fire extinguisher.
I think he is talking about the 1g N/a 4g engine. In that case you have to do some things to make it work. Like the oil feed from the head to the turbo. It is possible to do tho.
It makes it much easier to work on. But if its not a racecar, leave it practical. Its more comfortable and makes it easier to sell if that time ever comes, leave it all in there is my opinion....unless it dont work anyway lol.
good point.I used to run that same manifold back in the day. It ended up cracking worse than the stock 1g manifold. I dont want to say Turbonetics is bad quality, but I havent had luck with any of their parts.Whats wrong with the current turbo?
You might be coming off the clutch too fast. Try to ride it out a little when launching. Its hard to get it at first because you just wanna pop the clutch fast. Do it a little slower. Rev the motor and slowly (but not too slow) release the clutch. Then do it a little fast next time, and so on...
sorry, didnt notice it was a t3 manifold. I would maybe sell it all, pick up a cast FP manifold that will be mitsu flange. Then get a 16g or 20g turbo. The mitsu turbos are very good in my opinion and for your goals I would stick with a simple mitsubishi foot print. 300hp is very acheivable...
What are your goals/expectations with the car? 20 psi can have a different outcome turbo to turbo. My opinion on a good quick spooling streetable turbo would be the mitsubishi 16g. Perfect street manners, low cost, direct bolt on.
The rod should be threaded and is adjustable in the handle clip. It might just need pulled out of the clip, slid down more, then re-installed.
Might be the bottom side thats threaded. One side should have an adjustment.
So the studdering went away? I was going to ask you about your Air/Fuel ratio's. Maybe too much boost and not enough fuel. But most likely the plug wires are arcing at the coil side. Very visable at night.
The larger fittings and lines will for sure help. The oil stays mostly in the valve cover because of the baffle. I recommend keeping baffles in the valve cover, or else you will fill a catch can every couple of passes. Also take some vice grips and just slightly collapse the tip of the dipstick...
Not sure exactly where you are putting the wood at. But if you take off the other door panel you can see what part you are missing. Also if there is a part that is just "not there" it will most likely be laying in the bottom of the door.
That isnt normal at all. Are you sure you are making boost in 1st? Might have a leak and not enough time in such a short gear to build boost like the other gears will. Do a leak test.
I ran a cop without a CDI and couldnt take it past 23 psi and maxxed out on the rollers at 478whp. I swithed back to the stock coil and can run 30+ psi no problem. The cop looks better to me, but who builds a dsm just for looks?my opinion is stay stock until you spend a little cash to do...
Mine has been 100% garage kept since I bought it 8 years ago... But I used to take it out in the snow when I still lived in Ohio, axis spins ftw....not much snow in New Orleans tho
LOL, they hate being called Neon owners.....but claim the name "Skittles"? HAHA. Nice looking pictures there, the silver evo looks real good with the forward facing turbo!
rear main seal while its apart, and a compression check before you waste alot of time putting it back together. Definatly timing belt/water pump, balance shaft belt, and ALL fluids including rear end, just for peace of mind.
thanks man, I really appreciate the compliments. And yes I did all the paint work myself, Ive been painting and doing body work for about 6 or 7 years now. I did all the welding/shaving in the engine bay and all the wiring for the tuck also. Ive owned the car for 8 years, and dont plan on...
Thanks guys, the tuck and bay shave took me almost a year to complete.
The motor is a 6 bolt block/ 7 bolt head, Eagle/weisco 9.1:1, 280 cams, PTE billett 6765 t3, PTE 46mm gate, JMFAB race mani, 1600cc, dual walbro intank pumps, V3, ETS race fmic kit, Shep stg 4 trans, competition stg 5...
Hey all, my name is Joe, Im a new member, but Ive been browsing the site for years now. Just figured Id finally join. Im originally from Troy Ohio, but currently living in the New Orleans area for work. I have owned a few dsm's, but Ive only kept one and its the original one I started out with...