I'm looking to find some help with this problem Iv looked and still no answers. A few days ago my fuel rail came loose due the previous owner using the wrong hardware. It destroyed the already old o rings so I bought new ones put it back together and now the fuel pump won't kick on. I have a...

I live in Pooler Gerogia and in need of a tune. Does anyone know a good tuning place in the savannah area or anyone that is decent with tuning. Preferably a dyno tune but at this time anyone familiar would be good. Thanks, Mike

Yep this weekend out comes the motor. Re-ring and re bearing and mill the block all in store. I have to do the head gasket might as well go all the way. Is it easier to pull the motor with or without the transmission? I know i would have to unblot the transfer case and all the extra stuff...

No I havent checked it yet. I was told by many people that its really hard to warp a block being made of cast iron. I just cleaned it good and put it together. I should have checked it tho. Something I overlooked. :banghead:

Im not gunna do the block but the head just came back from the machine shop. Now im thinking about going with a fel pro composite along with my arp studs. I run 18-22psi boost. Iv been reading that its a waste of time to use a MLG is you dont deck the block. Im estimating that i make around...

Do you have the radio brackets/pocket compartment that goes under the radio still?

To do it the right way I would weld in steel like said previous. bondo wont hold ver long before its cracking and leaking. or you could even find the little rubber plugs to fill the holes temporarily. When you say half moon shaped wing which are you talking about?

I have custom 3 inch on mine. One pipe from the hot side to the IC and one Pipe from the IC to the Tb. Then I heat wrapped the side from the IC to the TB and it made a noticable difference. If you have someone that is good at welding you would save money making your own. Also it depends on...

This really helped iv been leaning towards the head gasket but after hearing this im sure I gunna replace it now. As of now I have just the regular arp studs should I upgrade to te L19's or just call it done the with the ones I have now?

well the head was fresh when i put it on. No oil or coolant mixing together and its not over heating unless it pushes out a sagnificant amount of coolant out the over flow. like the coolant system is getting way to pressurized somehow.

I have that sping/shock combo on mine and it rides really nice. I had to shim the rear and i have upper adjustable ball joints and essentrics in the front, I had to put the adjustable ball joints in to get the camber right but a good package if you ask me. I also just did the urethane bushings...

Sounds like a stuck thermostat. Also when you do change it it wouldnt hurt to flush the coolant system. Being stuck open would make it run to cool and being stuck closed would cause it to overheat.

I have a 2g with a 6 bolt swap and I have a 2g translator.

Sounds like rod knock to me. Ouchh

Sounds to me like you have a leak somewhere or a sensor unplugged. Did you replace the TB gasket when you cleaned it up?

The reason I put a higher pressure cap was in hope to fix this problem. The deck hasnt been milled that i know of. I hear the blocks are pretty hard to warp. I read somewhere on here that a guy had the same problem as me and it was a head gasket. But it just annoys me that its a new head...

I would never use a pry bar to do any such thing. Turn the engine till the cam lobe isnt applying pressure and torque it down.

I am using a solid copper head gasket on it with arp studs. I just had the head done at the machine shop less than 300 miles ago. My afr's are good all across the board. the reason I got the 19lb cap is cause it would take more pressure to push the coolant into the overflow. The only thing I...

So I have done my research and still come up with nothing. I replaced the head gasket with a solid copper head gasket new thermostat, 19 lb radiator cap , new thermostat replaced some hoses, new mishimoto aluminum radiator, blocked off the heater core and bypassed the coolant lines to the TB...

I had that same issue and it was the head gasket. I would take the radiator cap off and start it and let it run till the t-stat opened and notcied the bubbles then I block tested it and it turned green. After putting a redone head and new gasket on it I havent had a problem since.

I have had a bad water pump without it leaking. The blades on the wheel were so badly corroded that it could pump enough coolant.I have had a bad water pump without it leaking. The blades on the wheel were so badly corroded that it could pump enough coolant

I would go with the metal ones. I am going to be switching to a 1g tb and I have to open up the center for clearance. And a little rtv never hurts.

Does your dipstick blow out after a nice pull?

Is the caliper hard to get off or just the rotor? If its the caliper it could need new flex lines. If its the rotor it sounds like the ebrake cable is mis adjusted

I would do a boost leak check. Do you have a wideband? If so you should be running on the leaner side.

Sounds to me like your timing is off. Even if your rings were bad or a valve or two wasnt sealing you would still have some compression in at least one cylinder.

Go to the hardware store and get the bolts the have the hole in the end and get castle nuts and use a cotter pin. I dont know if i would be welding them. Even a small tack might make it a pain cause they do stretch it could cause a leak after some time.

Go off the line from the manifold to the fpr. I have a t in the middle of that and run my boost gauge and line to my blow off valve from there. I never have any problems.

If you have a gutted one or even totally eliminating it the coolant doesnt have enough time in the radiator to pull the heat from it. The coolant actually flows to fast and can cause problems with your car entering closed loop operation. If your having over heating problems it is not a good...

It all depends on the offset of your rims. I have 18's with 245-40-18's and they barely rub the insides not enough to do damage.

Well i did some looking and figured out it myslef. There is a switch on the MAFT that allows cold start enrichening. Flipped the mode 3 switch and fixed it. Does anyone know what the max advance timing should be under higer rpm's? Im getting like in the 30 degree range.

Im using a mass air flow translator and a wideband for now. No logger

I have researched and still cannot find an answer. When I first start my car (cold start) the wideband reads like 20-30 afr. I believe this is way to high to even support combustion, but it runs. Its a little hesistant at first at low rpm's and kinda misses a little or studders but once the...

So I put a smoker laek detector test on it and found a leak in the intake gasket but i noticed now that it looks like oil on the tops of the pistons ands im losing oil. The motor is supposed to have around 10,000 miles on it compression is 165 150 145 150.

I have checked just about every sensor and everything looks ok. I am also having an intermittent miss for a sec to 5 secs then goes away. the idle isnt idling as high usually around 1000-1500rpm now. Its still running lean on idle

I have looked threw all the threads and I cant find anything related. My car will being idling fine and il start driving and or sitting still and it will rev up anywhere between 1500 to 4000 rpm and hold. It causes problems at red lights and. Il tap the gas and it wont really do much. I...