Bobby, let me know when you get the other thread up as a for sale/group buy thread as well. Still interested in this.

Not sure if you're referring to me or not in your post 95REGF150, but I have driven plenty of vehicles without power steering. Hell, the first vehicle that I drove was an '82 Toyota Pickup with 33" tires and no power steering when I was a sophomore in high school. That thing was truly a bear to...

I think what Bobby was trying to get at when he says easier to steer is that a true manual rack would be easier to steer than a comparable de-powered rack would be, which is generally true. Having driven several different Miatas with varying setups I can attest to the difference being quite...

I've only ever broken one door handle, albeit this one may have actually been my fault and not the crappy plastic; door handle and door were frozen shut from a blizzard and yanking on it hard snapped the handle right off. Door could barely even be pushed open from the inside once I did finally...

When I sent the original panel is to be used for a mold, it weighed 18.5# (give or a take 1/4#). And yes, I would say that to use this EXACT panel you would want a full cage. The cage is the main reason that I will not be installing mine any time soon.

New roof looks good on there John. Glad I could help with that project. :hellyeah:Quick question for you on the install though. I see that the edges of your roof are black after being installed. Did you have that part of the roof painted? I know Dave said that the roof would need some kind of...

You COULD do exactly what you're saying. Except that the bellhousing mounting is a bit different. 2 of the bolts wouldn't line up if you used a DSM block with an Evo 4-9 trans. The Evo guys use a Sirius II 4G64, usually sourced from a 3G Eclipse or equivalent year Galant.

I agree with that. The other advantage to eliminating the countershaft was adding overall strength to the transaxle as well.Perhaps I should have said rotated the engine rather than spin. Either way, Evo 6-Speed is garbage. That's why most 6-Speed owners ditch it in favor of the 5-Speed...

This is wrong. All 4G engines spin the same direction. You could make custom mounts to spin the engine 180* to use an Evo 4-9 transmission and transfer case. It's not remotely worth it to a Turbo DSM, but it is possible. That's basically what the NA 2G guys do when they do an "Evo" swap.

I doubt they would want to do that because the Evo 6-Speed is known to be a bit of a grenade. Lots of stories of them not holding much for power, and constantly fragging 3rd/4th even under just Bolt-On power.

That right there was my excuse. Not on here as much as I am during the warmer months. It's snowmobile season dammit!

I second this opinion. I planned on going to an electrohydraulic PS setup anyway. Having driven a couple of Autocross cars with full manual racks I can say from experience that they would be miserable to use if you only had a manual option with real sticky tires (ie what we all wish we could run...

Deposit sent. Somehow I feel like I am late to the party on all of this. Haha.

Bobby, I'm in and you know it. Just say the word on when you're ready to go.

I also received mine today. Packaging looked great overall. Very impressed. I also second the taping of the ends of the bolt bags in the future. Mine was rubbed through and dropped two of the washers into the bottom of the package. Had there been any kind of hole there, they may very well have...

I'll throw my hat in for a full set... would love to see a slightly thicker rear bar if possible. Let me know if you do go through with making another batch.

Be sure to add me to that thread as well. Not sure if I will be needing them or not, but I may have someone else interested in a set.

I see Bobby neglected to put me on the list. Fixed...1, GSXbooster 2, TheLemon 3, 95eclipser 4, jls_Frog 5, slowwhite 6, ViciousLord 7, gsxitement 8, Eclipse 1998 9, Mitsumikey 10, EclipseRacing99 11, T2Small 12, fredom dsm 13, NWHtank 14, mountain_man 15, Apache 16,

Don't even think about counting me out on this, Bobby.

Seconded... where's the damn neg rep button?! Haha, I kid. I'll just return to patiently waiting for more awesome parts...

I know that Paul Volk had said once that he had an idea on how to do the inner mount so as to avoid the flopping around of the arm, but i dont remember the specifics. May be worth quizzing him on it though.

I second this as I would like something that both keeps the dual lower arm setup as well as eliminates the rubber bushings and replaces them with either solid bushings or spherical bearings, possibly with some adjustment for additional caster.

Anxiously awaiting some numbers on these... Hopefully the Camber and Caster numbers that you calculated out will end up being close. Also curious to hear if your Anti-Dive ends up working out.

Just a note to the guys that keep asking to be added to the list, you have to pay up front to be added. Just saying.

I've run 18's on my 2G for years now, no complaints at all. 17's also look pretty good and perform well. I have a friend up here that has 19's on his 2G. I think they look too big personally, and the ride with those and the Tokico shocks that he has makes for a VERY stiff ride on our crappy roads.

I for one would love to have some anti dive adjustment available. Maybe make it as an option? I'm not sure I guess how much is really involved in that, but I'm betting that most of the hardcore guys would like to see it stay. Just a thought.

The Outlander manifold only fits the Galants. The 3G Eclipse (which is basically what your chassis is) doesn't have an engine bay that's deep enough to fit it.

I wouldn't turbo it until after the head swap personally. If you turbo the motor with that intake manifold it will just Crack it in short order and create a giant boost leak. Whereas doing the DOHC head swap will net a decent power gain, especially with a tune on it. Just a suggestion.

There is no better intake manifold for that head. If you do the DOHC head swap from an Evo, then you can use all of the manifolds that they can. Until then, you're stuck with the TERRIBLE manifold that you have. They're prone to cracking, even unboosted. Truth be told, there's a lot that can be...

LH and RH orientation are as if you were sitting in the Driver''s seat. DSMs have the engine on the LH side, so the right side of the engine bay if you were looking at the car with the hood up. 3Gs and Evo 8s/9s have the engine on the RH side, like your Sebring.

All of the "newer" 4G64s that are mounted on the RH side of the engine bay are 7-Bolt blocks. Having said that, there is no reason to try switching to a 6-bolt since the "newer" 4G blocks should all have the revised 3-piece thrust washers like the Evo 8 and 9 does. No worry of crankwalk there...

Good to hear the compression arm has enough clearance. It's been a while since I was under the car measuring that stuff and couldn't remember how much room there really was.Do you think that ET36 would still clear a 265 tire on a 9.5" wheel? Or would the knuckle require modification to fit...

Could possibly be for an oil coooler? That would be my guess. Any Time Attack car HAS to keep oil temps in check or they will just meltdown. May also be a transmission cooler I suppose? Or a heat exchanger for a setup that does both? Wish the article was a bit more complete with regards to that...

Damn. I like that idea. How much clearance does he have with the lower compression arm on his car at full lock after clearancing the upright?

Look a little closer at the CFD images. His ducts pull air from under the car as well as through the rear doors. The trick side skirts that he has are for the double decker diffuser design that he has.

I can think of a couple of Time Attack cars that pull air from under the car for both the radiator and for increasing downforce.http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/06/for-my-ally-is-the-force/That is one such car. Granted, that particular car is also pulling air from the sides of the car as...

True. You would definitely need a mesh to keep out debris, even for a race application. If you had a properly designed shroud for the fans you could easily suck up a lot of shit that you don't want to.Another point to this is that you would need to have a VERY large opening at the rear of the...

Actually, it may be better to pull air from both the sides of the car as well as under the car. It's quite difficult to get enough air to go through a radiator once it's not in the high pressure zone in front of the front bumper. Only pulling from the sides like that probably won't have enough...

I agree that steel is probably better as well. The argument could be made that aluminum COULD be better simply for the weight savings, but that's probably splitting hairs on this part. Especially if it could become a consumable because it doesn't have the strength to last a decent number of...

I am becoming more and more excited as this progresses. Would love to be able to have fully adjustable arms for my car. Keep at it and keep us posted!

I would stick with the Koni Sports personally. Honestly, you shouldn't have to keep adjusting them. Once you find where they work good for you, just leave them be. This makes initial setup a bit of a pain in the ass, but at the end of the day you still have a better quality shock than an AGX or...

Yeah, the rears require removal for adjustment. Still worth it in my opinion, but to each their own. I'll be doing the full Koni/HyperCo coilovers later this summer.

2Gs don't have camber plates. Period. Anyone that says otherwise has no clue what they're talking about.As for a good setup, the Koni Sports (Yellows) are the best quality shock available for the 2G chassis. They can also be converted to a coilovers as well if you want to later down the road...

I feel a need to comment on this with regards to what you were thinking about Roll Center. Andrew Brilliant has gone through quite a bit of effort on his Time Attack car to get the Roll Center back up to where it should be. He even went so far as to have the lower front subframe modified to...

Agreed. Sign me up for a set as well when you get around to them Kevin.

I do believe that that is indeed the ideal F:R balance for the 2G DSM from nearly everything that I've read, albeit every car is slightly different based on it's exact configuration. I'm curious as to what has led you to your conclusion.

I thought I remembered seeing pics of Kevin (greengoblin) doing exactly that for his race car. I do know that he replaced all of the bushings in his car with either solid metal (bronze/aluminum) bushings, or spherical bearings. Hopefully he can chime in and provide some pictures of this.

I actually have a 99-Spec (3-Piece Thrust Washer) 4G64 block in my car currently. When we did the engine build we had to block off the extra ports in the block to use a DSM-Style head. It is VERY possible that an Evo 8 head and headgasket would drop right on to the 4G64 blocks found in the...

Curious why you ran the Turbo Return line straight into the block? Was that just so you could reuse the original oil pan with no modifications other than blocking off that port? I was always under the impression that the lower the turbo return port was, the better.

Then your only choice is to try to identify what the thread pitch on your new sensor is and hunt down an adaptor for it.