>You are 100% correct, I was in a rush and have a lot going on right now. Overwhelmed to say the least. If i had the money to have it tuned I would but no big deal. Hopefully the cylinders are okay. Thats actually why I was panicking because i didn't even want to keep running the car like that...

ok yea I think it is. The website says 2018 next to the most recent so i did that with a firmware update in 2019.

Also i did input that value 1136cc at 43.5 psi. Thats how i got -60.9 global. I don't know why but for some reason it glitches after i put the calculation in and click the tab again. Sometimes it just switches the values in the tab, I've never entered a different fuel pressure than stock.

I didn't mean any disrespect, i just autistically wanted to get it right with the data sheet to see what i could have changed. My apologies hope you didn't take offense. Here's the values you suggested in a warm up/idle.

Hey all good, thank you for getting back to me. They are the cheaper low impedance injectors.

That’s copied directly from the FIC data sheet bro. Did you look at the log?

Could be a metric to measure the type of people that end taking care of and keeping these cars. I've seen owners of other popular cars reference this website specifically just because of how excellent it is compared to other forums. DSM owners might just not be ruled by money. There used to be a...

Best way I've found is from jaffromobile. You can put the motor on a jack stand with a 2x4 under the oil pan slightly lower than where it sits in the bay (enough room for timing gears to not touch). It puts the motor at a good angle and then it's not moving at all. Then you can line up the...

This might help you out. I do believe the 90 TB/ISC is different though. Could use this as an opportunity to upgrade to a later version TB and rebuild it with new seals.

@Vegas Smith @Stapl3 @1cleangsx Well bros, that was it. My inability to understand the function of deadtime was the culprit. I was able to get it partially dialed in. Have to smooth out AFR, redo ISC position, and fix my TPS volts but it's a good start. Can't thank you guys enough. I have maybe...

Wow i thought the value corresponded with how long the injector was resting while not spraying. If i had the money i would just get it tuned because i can't figure this kind of thing out anymore i guess.

So higher dead time = richer condition? I was mistaken, i thought higher deadtime values = longer pulse width creating leaner conditions. About to go mess with the settings now.

I always liked driving a nice 5spd suby. Just feels like a solid, comfy ride but also maneuverable. Have seen some motors last longer in them than they should too.

Ok, I was under the understanding that the higher the INjBatADj value, the longer the pulse width final calculation, equaling a leaner mixture. I will change that and report back. Hopefully that's the whole problem right there. Its a Fuel lab AFPR.I can't do a boost leak test where the car...

The injectors are new, never had fuel in the rail with them installed. I never changed the switch point since the original install instructions but I'll look into it. The battery offset may be incorrect. I thought i copied it correctly from the data sheet but i think i was only supposed to drop...

No worries. Im on a 2g maf. FIC 1220cc. Yea the deadtime could be -80% and the car will still be sitting at a 10:1 afr. Any changes made to global, deadtime or maf comp has no effect. On gas.

Awesome thank you. I really appreciate it.

@Vegas Smith @1990TSIAWDTALON Any thoughts? figured I'd check in on here before just swapping out parts. Pretty good chance it's the WB sensor. Only things left are that maf and ecu pretty much.

It doesn't look familiar.

Got her running after a long period of being out of commission. Cannot get a stable enough idle to adjust BISS/ISC properly. Shes running insanely rich regardless of whatever global/deadtime settings are used. Eventually goes into closed loop but narrow band O2 doesn't cycle. Possibly bad Bosch...

Damn I didnt even notice that, looks like it progressively leans out throughout the pull too. I wonder what the actual boost is. @tdykes1234 how do you monitor boost? A gauge and BoostEst?

Yea not really surprising your having trouble building boost, with a crack it’s like a second wastage dumping exhaust gas. Basically the turbo can’t spin as fast because that crack is redirecting exhaust letting it escape before your turbine.

A hole and in your exhaust manifold definitely affects the turbos ability to build boost. Not really the best idea to keep going WOT with a leak of your mani either. Where is the leak? Do you have pictures? Could just have someone weld it for you.

I would probably start by checking battery voltage and if your alternator is charging correctly. Check main fuses and connectors/grounds again.

Yea if the lines had a bunch of corrosion and weren’t clean then they could definitely leak. I remember after upgrading from a t25 to 16g having to chase a few very small leaks from not tightening clamps enough or corrosion I ignored.

If the lower hose isn’t warming up your thermostat is not opening up. Could be that your radiator cap is not functioning correctly as well if you see steam coming out of it. Nice clean bay btw.

Yea I would replace them if they seem worn out and are getting squishy/no longer stiff. You said it was just a drop you noticed?

You can try pressure testing your coolant system before you start replacing hoses to narrow down what’s leaking.

Are the fans coming on? How high is the temp gauge in the cluster going?

We’re you able to get the code with a multimeter?

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-eclipse-diagnostic-port-no-power.511878/#post-153646078 This should help

If you post a log it’s easier to see what’s actually going on. Did you fix the 02 sensor problem? What cel is it throwing?

@Hickory-NC-2Ggsx haha damn well I guess it’s good your building your transmission yourself then. Is this your fist time doing mods to your transmission? I’m a little intimidated by how much goes into doing it, but it seems like a must if you want to keep shooting for higher power numbers and...

Looks like jacks transmissions still has the rail in stock, I guess it’s an upgrade because you can use the 1g shift fork with a evoIII gear set. I think that evo gear set is hard to find though...

Nice, I believe I have the AEM 30-4110 which also uses the Bosch 4.9 sensor. I think the main differences between the two are that your gauge actually has an air calibration and a CANbus output for the AEMnet system(allows you to daisy chain and Data-Log multiple controllers) I’ll be...

Pretty attainable goals. start reading and doing research on here to narrow down your upgrade path. How many miles on the body? Is it the original motor? What other mods have been done? I only see ecmlink v3 in your profile.

My AEM uego has a 0-5 v output that’s a white wire and a serial output that’s a blue wire. The white wire gets soldered into ecu front o2 pin. You then set the pin in link for the front o2 and simulate narrow band. If you use the uego it has a problem logging with link, so you have to log it as...

Hopefully you have better luck than I have, this is my second one that’s not working correctly. However it is possible that my voltage regulator burned out something in the gauge itself. It’s reading normally on the gauge display but as @Vegas smith Pointed out it’s pinned at 9.6 in link...

Thank you for the example to shoot for, hopefully I can start to tune when I work out all these bugs. Im not sure if my ISC position swinging around is normal considering all the other problems with my 02, coolant temp and vacuum.I think I’m done with AEM WBs I’m ordering an innovate LC2 this...

No worries easy mistake with all the posts like this on here. What a relief I had those settings wrong and it’s not the sensor, thanks again for spotting that. My ECU May still be damaged unfortunately due to the alternator. my WB still reads A/F just fine on the gauge but cannot log in link...

ok awesome didn't even notice I had it set for baro not MDP thank you its logging again. now I just have to figure out the WB, maybe it shorted out the gauge when my voltage spiked with the faulty alternator. it was oscillating around 14.7 before and going nicely between .20 and .80 but now it...

Did you adjust the biss with the car running? I think 1g is different but you do it during warm idle in neutral for a 2g.also with idle set to 900rpm you may have to retard timingecmtuning.com/wiki/idlesurge

so I was still driving it to work waiting until had money for an alternator, was running fine besides rich condition at idle. on a cold start up two weeks ago maybe 2 min into a cruise no longer could log WB and was running lean. limped it home and parked it till I replaced the alternator with a...

Yea I locked it when I was trying to tune, unfortunately my Omni isn’t reading it stays at a fixed number so when I get the sd bundle I’ll be able to log vacuum and boost, I’ll log isc position after work tonight

And yea stock TB witch is also possibly not sealing because it’s the oem unit

Thank you for all the info I got frustrated and made a post when maybe more research and verification that everything is mechanically sound before tuning is what I need. I just didn’t understand why when I got everything back together it randomly started going rich like it is at idle and Revving...

Not on SD yet, need to get the sd bundle

thank you for the reply im not sure if a boost leak would cause this considering its occurring at idle/partial throttle at a stop but I do need to do a boost leak test for peace of mind. I originally uploaded a xl doc here is the correct one

Recently got the car back together and mobile, but im having trouble getting my baseline tune dialed in correctly using the basic info on the ecmlink wikki and from here. I have very limited experience so im not sure what to change to get smooth idle and free revs back inline.its struggling...