http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/ What you're looking for may be here

You need an analog or analog/digital voltmetre,probes to pins 1 and 12 of the data link connector1 being top left 12 being bottom right. Analog because it just gives a pulse, count the sweeps and that's the code ex. Code 24 two slow sweeps pause four quick sweeps. Good luck

All of these are good advice and can work. With the new axle came out quite easily, pretty much effortless. But taking my old one out, passenger side, was very hard and guessing it was because of the c-clip? When mine finally came out the clip was grooved to the splines of the tranny, if that...

If you just had someone else do tranny service and it's doing this, then I would definitely check it out myself. Too many stories of a shop messing stuff up

http://simon.chi.il.us/ECU/ECUID.html Check this out found it in another post

Haynes manual, I picked mine up at a parts store. And you can get digital copy online on their website. Probably order a printed copy too

When I picked up my '91, cruise didn't work. It was an old vacuum hose. Replaced it and never had an issue again

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/

19wiseman90 asked a question i'll ask again.is it the right bolt in the tensioner pulley? This will help determine if it is http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/

Agree with pauleyman. It kind of looks like you're not setting the tension on the tensioner pulley before you pull the pin.

Just a thought. Refer to 19eclipse90's photo. You have the right pulley's in the right spot? Meaning the tensioner pulley's in the right spot? And the 2 little holes facing outward?

Not sure what it's actually called to find it, but take a look in here http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/

I would test the resistances in them as well. Don't know what the values for these are but it will give an idea of condition if values are way out of one another

At the very least, I would take the head apart and clean it up, maybe new seal and lap the valves. All that work whats a little more for peace of mind. When I did mine, for the head, I cemented sand paper on a big chunk of glass and put the head to it. Not that mine was warped but it worked...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/ Hopefully this will help, good luck

Before it stalls out, rpm too low, dummy lights will usually come on before it stalls out

On my '91 I put a data logger to it and my ecu was resetting every time i shut the car off, no codes ever. A year or so later ecu crapped out. I did not have any of these issues anytime at all, but I would imagine it depends where the failure is?. Kind of sounds like a wiring issue. I would log...

This motor looks like it was sitting in a farm field or hood removed for awhile. Compression values like that, alone, is a rebuild(bent valves,rings, pistons,crank cams.) Was it in time when you rolled it over?Did the plugs look like they were damaged?One of the fuses actually look like it's...

Agreed, it actually will make it worse by breaking down what little grease/lube is left

this is a list of I think all nut/bolt ect http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/

I would inspect your line for cracks, damaged thread, imperfections, dirt, ect. If you think you've done it all right, to me this would be the next thing I would start to think about.

agree with the heil-coils

You need to start a new thread and have real info on what you're driving in order for people to shout back ect. :idontknow:

find out what resistance values are suppose to be for your injectors and test them to see if they are bad or nothaha this thread was started 2005

Because you said temp switch in the rad I'm assuming you meant the thermo switch? Did you just replace it or was original bad? A little more detail would help. How did you test it, Did you test the thermo switch at normal operating temp or better? Did you check for continuity of the switch(again...

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18061&cat=1841&page=1

as far as over heating, a bad head gasket doesn't always do that. But if you leave it long enough and hg gets worse it can definitley start to.

Agree to the compression test, maybe a leak down test and a coolant system pressure test and a boost leak test White smoke is coolant. Blue is oil, Black fuel. Questions to ask yourself, is there coolant in your oil, oil in coolant. How is your coolant levels holding? Are you over heating? What...

drewbuddy submitted a new DSM Profile :Stock no modsRead more about this vehicle here...

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ECUs.html is a list of ecu part numbers

STRAIGHT FROM MANUAL: Engine cooling fan(s) and circuit check 1. The engine cooling fan(s) are controlled by a fan motor relay and a rad fan thermo switch. The two fans operate separately.coolant reaches pr-determined temp, the switch opens the ground return for the fan motor relay, completing...

check continuity in thermo switch. Temp under 160, there should be no continuity. if there is replace it. At normal operating temp, check continuity again there should be continuity. If not replace the switch

Also check the thermo fan switch for normal operation, as well I would put voltage to the fans to make sure they are functional.

And from what I understand, you would have to look deeper into it, a manual will work in an automatic, but a automatic won't work in a manual. mine wouldn't stay running

start on the exhaust cam and work clockwise, so any slack can be taken by the tensioner/puley. I used lock and tie wraps made sure it was good n tight and cams as close to lined up as I could, moving clockwise. Make sure the cam lock (little plastic piece) is right side up as well, it is...

This is just a personal opinion, but if the head is off and you're iffy about rings I would just go that extra step or few and put in new rings. You can check all the spec on old rings when they are out and if good can keep as spares or re-use, whatever. For all the messing around and time...

1G EGR valve - DSM Forums Check this thread out, I posted a vac schematic in this. Won't let me repost the pic here. Hopefully it helps. good luck

I was going to say check idler pulley as well. I blew a timing belt once because it was on backwards. I would actually go as far as taking the cover off and take a look at where broken off shavings/chunks are sitting

Of course, passenger side my bad

Do you have oil pressure at all? Verify oil pump is working. Is white smoke coming out of exhaust as well? white smoke usually means you are burning coolant. Is there coolant in your oil? If there is could be head gasket, or maybe head not torqued to spec. Bad rings you would have blow by and...

Cam/crank sensor is one unit located drivers side of intake cam. issues with crank should set code 22, cam 23

you can order one through napa, can tire, or go on the haynes website. You can order one or by a online downloadable version

also what is the condition of your rad? (inside) had an escort that was so contaminated it wouldn't throw heat cause the core was caked.made driving the highway at -35C not too fun. just a thought

also inspect harmonic balancer, it can separate and throw out your timing. just a thought

you definately need to do a compression test, thats the first thing i would do especially if you suspect compression issues. maybe a leak down test. is it smoking under boost? I ask cause i had same starting issues, on first start of day then was good. only 5 psi in #2 ended up piston lands had...

i would check the temp sending unit, coolant temp sensor, your guage, look for a bad ground. If you can get a hold of a data logger you could see what its running temp is at. Is your cooling fan working? if not check you thermo fan switch/relay, make sure fan motor is good. and check your fuses

appply pressure, then you will know if diaphram is still good. even if you could by hand you wouldn't really know if it is fuctional.find spec so you don't apply too much and damage the diaphram. my 1G is max 12.4psi according to spec

couldn't find a link but here's a pic for egr vac lines