Amazing build and awesome to see the progress over time. Just spent a few hours reading through every post from start to finish and I'm very impressed! Keep up the good work! :)

Thanks...didn't even think to search Amazon (or elsewhere).

I'm aware of that option but I appreciate you letting me know. Was hoping to get a better idea of when they would be available versus waiting around to be notified and I'd also like an idea of price. If the price is right and it's not gonna be too long perhaps I'll wait, since I need everything...

Seems like a nice little kit. Any idea when these will actually be in stock? Specifically for a 1Gb with a 2.0T. Also, any idea on pricing?

Awesome. Thanks for the info. That would explain why I didn't see it - it only showed the single wastegate setup in the pictures/description. Glad to hear you guys put in the effort to make sure it fits as well as possible within the constraints of a fairly/completely stock car!Will hopefully...

This is gorgeous. This is for a true, twin-scroll, twin-wastegate, T3 Holset V-Band (outlet) setup, yes? I don't see this on your site - I'd be interesting to know the cost and lead time. Also, was this specific set designed for a 1G or 2G and will it work with stock radiator and plumbing setup...

Would flattening the trunk floor (removing the spare tire dip) fix this issue? I don't have/use/care for a spare tire and would be willing to flatten the floor if it would make it much easier to fit the large tank. Need to take a look under my car later tonight and see if that would do much...

I'd be curious, but I'd need at least a 15 gallon tank to make it worthwhile, ideally 20+. 10 is too small, as someone who regularly drives their car hundreds of miles at a time without stops. Did you explore larger tank options?

I've got 4 cars, 2 of which are DSMs. My 92 Talon TSi AWD is one of my 'toys' and is the one with all the mods that only sees summer duty. My bone stock 92 Laser RS Turbo FWD is my daily and in the 4 years I've owned it has seen close to 100k miles put on it. I've put probably another 200-300k...

Just bought adjustable UCAs and RTEs a few months ago...wish I would have waited now (especially for the bent UCAs). Definitely interested in the LCAs w. RSB provision and am interested in both the front and rear tubular subframes you're mentioning. Tubular front control arms with provisions for...

Is there much demand for this? I can likely have these made up if there is, including replacement metal sleeves in case yours are corroded. I will be making some for myself but have access to people who can make larger batches of things like this.

If only Thanksgiving in Canada was the 21st and not the 14th I'd almost definitely come out. Never been to this before and it would be nice to visit some other gatherings besides the Shootout!

Cut it shorter, weld a bead around the edge of the 'fitting' to give it a bead/lip like a regular fitting has, slide the hose over and throw on a clamp - DONE!There is not really any pressure running through the drain line, especially one of that size, so there really isn't much worry of it...

Yup, they are that different.The 2G AWD 5-Speed plate is: MD167356 The 2G AWD Auto, and FWD Auto/5-Speed are all the same: MD194962If you don't have the proper plate you're going to run into issues. Spend the $25 and buy a new OEM one and be done with it :)

As an aside to what was mentioned above, Ziggy (at RTM) will ship it to you for MUCH cheaper than that. The auto-quote on the website is very inaccurate for most things...i'd estimate shipping to be about a third of that, if even that much. It would be less if you were in Canada, that's for sure.

This ^^^^ is very important. For many other bolts you can buy non-OEM replacements without worrying, but for these you must use the OEM bolts. Besides, shoulder or not, good luck finding a 41.5mm bolt anywhere else. :hmm:

The service limit is 121psi on a stock 1G block (7.8 CR)...i.e. anything below 121psi is supposed to be rebuilt. A 'perfect' engine will read 164psi.For the 8.5CR engines, the 'perfect' value is 178psi and the service limit is 133psi.

I suppose I should have posted the thread I got the specs from, it's ultra useful:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/437697-what-size-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.htmlFor anyone with a 1G and/or any running a 6-bolt, it's fantastic. And even for the 2G 7-bolt guys...

Carrier Bearing (Intermediate or Half Shaft) to Engine Block Bolts, AWD (with spring washers) - M10x1.25, 41.5mm length, 14mm head size, 7 head mark, 26-33 ft-lbs torque spec.Not sure what the part number is.https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18747&cat=0&page=1 - Select...

Keep in mind for all sanitary stuff it needs to be complete penetration and be smooth on the inside of the pipes/tubes, as any pockets of any size can catch food/liquid and are bacteria havens. I used to design beverage equipment (predominantly brewery stuff) and a lot of the stuff we did had to...

Looks like a raccoon to me, which is probably why he's throwing it. ::cool:

For almost all it can easily be done whilst on the car. Some of the ones closer to the driver/timing side may be difficult to get at.As for drilling, as mentioned, one hole does run perpendicular to an oil galley, but it's pretty obvious when you've started drilling into solid aluminum versus...

Awesome news. Would love to see some video of the beast in action! Pictures of the work in progress as well. :D

Clutch adjustment costs you nothing but time. A new pedal assembly will be at least a couple hundred bucks and a fair chunk of time to remove the old one and install the new one (the time is the least of the issue, though...it is a huge PITA).I would try checking/bleeding/adjusting...

You want to run a bigger turbo or even more boost on a stock turbo you're going to need to upgrade your fuel system.What do you have for a fuel pump? Injectors? Regulator?An E16G or an FP68HTA will be more than adequate to get you into the 12's. A 14b will get you there too, but it will take...

What washers (if any) do you have on there?You need to use the OEM turbo lock washers. They are concave and come in pairs. They are expensive as far as washers go, but cheap in the big picture and are what will hold best. I have never had these back out on me when installed properly.The...

Haven't touched the car since mid last week...had too much other stuff on my plate. Going to go at it tonight. Definitely going to grind it a little smaller and more shapely, then rubber coat it. I'll send you the post-grinding pics and the post-coating pics.

Hey and welcome to the boards/world of DSMs!Once you check the compression of the motor, make sure your clutch is properly adjusted...see these following links to verifY:Clutch Drag Kills Synchros! – Jacks Transmissions LLC http://youtu.be/vYJxQyjIhUw Clutch Pedeal Adjustment - Team...

I do not know of any Canadian cars that were/are euro spec. I do not a lot of Canadians that wish their cars were, though.We had our own spec (no power seatbelts, metric gauges, DRLs, etc.) and that was about it as far as I know.

I've actually got pretty big feet and I can heel-toe in the car as-is, but there is NO room for error...I just wanted the extension so I could have a little more security when pushing the car at ten tenths. If you've ever had a foot slip off the brake pedal - even for a split second - coming...

And that has a drivetrain as bulletproof as the engine...We can dream, can't we?!

If your master is sweating/wet, it's time for a new one or time to rebuild it. It will cause issues if you don't take care of it.I would say fix that first and go from there. Just make sure to very thoroughly bleed it.

Not to mention that the HKS cams are now discontinued.

Drain the gas, put fresh stuff in. Clean the injectors and fuel rail and probably replace your fuel filter.Drain and replace all the fluids, do your timing belt, tensioners, water pump and accessory belts. If the car still has balance shafts you will need to replace the balance shaft belts as...

Ahh...I only saw broken links, but I see it on my phone. The pictures must be blocked at work...like damn near everything else.Thanks.

^-- Looks great - have any pictures of the process? Was thinking of doing something nearly identical for mine and would be interested to see how you did it.

Well, if there is oil in the exhaust, it is going to burn out. But a new motor and new/cleaned parts is going to smoke a lot (in the engine bay, anyways) and your rings aren't seated/engine isn't anywhere near broken in. Stop idling it unless absolutely necessary and go break it in. Once you've...

Run ATF through it under gentle driving around the block a few times. This will clean it out way better than any MTF ever can, and as an added bonus, will help clean up any old gunk as well.After the short drive, come back, drain it, fill with MTF of choice and enjoy :)

Greg, you've got a beauty! I have a buddy who had that exact car...'97 GST in that colour - you don't see too many of them.Any plans for her? Why's she non-op?

What do you have done to your car? What turbo? What are your goals?It doesn't say in your profile, so it's hard to say.I run the BC272's...haven't had any problem with them but will be moving to Kelford 272's when money allows. Most people I know running Kelfords swear by them but a Kelford...

Woah...didn't even notice that. It was mixed in with the most recently updated threads...not sure why it was there if it's from '05.Oops?

The Dodge Garage mod works very nicely, is pretty easy to do if you're careful and have basic hands-on skills and basic tools, will work better and more reliably than a crushed BOV and looks much better than a crushed BOV, too.I've had mine in my car for a few years and it works great and I...

I've run a number of 1G and 2G manifolds that had internal cracking but nothing showing through on the outside. Port them out nicely and makes your mating surfaces are flat (a mill works great for this) and you will have a great, cheap manifold that will be more than adequate for a 14b.

When you say the pedal is slow to return, do you mean that it comes back at a slower pace than you are lifting your foot up or are you side-stepping it to let it just pop back up and it's coming up slow/too slow for your liking? Can you get a video of it while you're sitting in the car?Ask a...

Can you draw a schematic showing exactly how you have everything hooked up (what your source is, where it hooks up, etc.).Have you done a boost leak test to ensure everything is sealed up?

I know this is a long shot, but I did have it happen to me once - the hose connecting the pump to the sending unit had split a little and so gas shooting at the top of the sending unit, and the sending unit wasn't sealed 100% so a little bit of gas was leaking out from around the sending unit...

Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. Not sure why I couldn't find it before...

Have you changed anything besides the mirror covers and door stickers? You mentioned that the #34 had been changed pretty extensively - what else was done to it and what have you already reverted back?

Been following you since day 1 of this build - love this car! Hoping you did well.On a different note, Lowell and TSiAWD666, can you guys elaborate on your coolant swirl pot/pressure tank setup? Perhaps a schematic showing what hooks up to what?

Definitely interested. This kind of stuff is always exciting!