If you do that and weld the center dif I'm not sure what would break 1st. The problem is the gear ratios of the two rear-ends you are talking about differ buy a few hundreths of a turn (not sure of the ratio).
The airflow gets really eratic with my stuff for some reason. I don't trust my pocketlogger and I'd like to look at boost on a graph after the fact. That way I would have it for a reference.DSMlink requires a laptop right?
Is there a datalogger out there with boost loggin capabilities? It seems useless to have a pocket logger after you've gone past 14psi. Not like I can look at my guage going 130
Oh wow it's good to see all you guys again! I've really missed just hitting the forums and helping out everynight. It was also nice to just shoot-the-poo too. I was wondering about dave, will, diambo, taboo and everyone I remember well. Is there anything I can do to get talk back online? is it a...
You washed it already? I didn't think you were supposed to do that for atleast a week or two after a car was painted? Or I'm just assumeing that's what the hose was out for.
Man they stink! It doesn't matter how often you clean the cage or get them de-scented either. They have this funk about them, kind of like home-less people. No matter what you do it wont wash off.
Well I've seen some without it but it just seems to me if was there to begin with it must have a purpose. That purpose may be just for a pick point but hey who knows.
Sheet metal? Have you actually seen the bracket? It is made of cast iron and 3/4 of an inch thick? If anything just leave it off if you are just going to use sheet metal.
My advice: Don't do anything cheaply, do it smartly (if that's a word). I re-re-built my engine after some one went cheap on some parts when they rebuilt it the 1st time 10k previous to me doing it.Get a mitsubishi gasket kit. You don't have to buy all the after market rods/pistons to do it...
The bolt has welded itself to the sleave inside the bushing. I have yet to finish my bushing install on the rear of mycar because both of the upper control arm eccentric bolts are stuck inside the sleaves. the only way to get it out is to start cutting. However I have no idea how you're going to...
I used a grinder on mine and I still had to use a 45* fitting when I built my line. That bracket is there to aid in pulling the motor. It says "manifold support bracket" in any of the books I've read but I'm not really sure if it supports much.
Pick up a new nut for the turbine shaft too. I re-built mine myself after I had FP clean and balance the rotating assembly. I rebuilt it to the exacting specs but the nut didn't hold torque and broke loose about 1k later. Basiclly I wasted 100$ on the balancing and 100$ on the rebuild. Send it...
If it was a couple of crotch-rockets or a dirt bike doing wheelies like that I'd like it more but you know how easy it is to do that on four wheels. Hell I have to fight to keep my front wheels on the ground, let alone picking them up for a few hundred feet. :p
I'm sorry but that's a waste of a few decent four wheelers. If you want to impress me go ride the thing threw the woods around here for 8 hours strait. I can manual on my bmx bike all day long, I'm sure I could do it on my nice padded warrior seat for a few hours :rolleyes:
Well I feel stupid. I thought we were talking about a 1st gen awd. I know for a fact the rear diff mount bushings are the same size as the front. As for a 2nd gen ya got me.
I've dealt with them in lifted trucks and they just don't have the tensile strength in my opinion to hold a major suspension part. Maybe if it's used on a sway bar or a very high quality part is used. However, they are open to road grit, salt water and just general shit when used in an everyday...
Spherical bearings fail to soon. Try the kit from taboospeedshop.com. His kit uses the same front link so all you have to do is install his kit and buy the front bushing for the rear arm. Cheaper and longer lasting.
I wont swear to it but my source says they are. If not for destroing them in the process I would have checked when I put my kit in. They look very similar and you know how manufacturers like to re-use parts if they can get away with it. Those front kits arent that much compared to the whole kit...
Well anyone that's going to build a 7bolt better do everything he/she can to make it last. It's the same argument over balance shafts. Some leave them in, some do everything they can to get them out.Also are you running factory cast pistions in those two cars?
See: RACE CARI don't know about the other guys on here but I drive a street car. If every last second counts yes buy all means take out anything that might sow the car down or suck power. But as for me, I like them.I think alot of it is opinion also. To each thier own.
How did the rebuild go on that? I've got my factory rear end laying in my garage with a few missing teeth. I'd like to fix it and sell the other for some cash. However I was told it would cost 500$+ to fix the stripped one.
Contact Martin @ taboospeedshop.com Last time I spoke with him I was working on a metal bushing to replace those. My "funding" ran low and I wan't able to continue on the project with him. I was going to drop my whole subframe to take measurments. He has the tooling to make bushings out of...
As I said before they have a "check ball" in them so no oil will pass until a certian pressure is reached. Besides that, it isn't pressure alone that sustains an engine anyway, it's pressure and volume. If you have enough oil flowing pressure is of no matter as long as it is above 8psi at all...
WTF? a cause for crank walk? Have you ever even had a 4g63 apart? How can they possibly have anything to do with cw?Neither did the n/a six bolts. But they have holes drilled and tapped just plugged from the factory.
I meant that the manufacturer put them there vs/ putting them in. Like some put the oil squirters in the n/a block just to keep things a bit cooler. As with all things it's an opinion. I'll keep mine thank you very much.
They don't spray all the time in a 4g63. They have pressure valves in them so they wont drip at lower pressures. Taking them off is just stupid. Especially if the manufacturer put them there :mad:
I can't refuse but my wallet sure can :cry:Honestly it isn't that bad but I'm afraid one day bopping down I77 @ 120+ it's going to A: let go and I'm walking B: lock up and I'm in the hospital C: do nothing and give me an aneurysm from thinking about it for too long.What I'd love to do is...
I know enough to know about gear ratios. It's been on the car for over three years now, if it was off in gear ratio it wouldn't have lasted a day ;)Who's Azrael? Has he broken them with ignorance or just had them do something similar to mine?
Their useless. Atleast in my area. I drive to work every day at 4:30 am and never get a single look from any cops with my exhaust.I just don't see a point in paying for something you don't want. Especially when that part is about 35% of the total exhaust price from other vendors. On a...
Ok so I've asked this of many other forums but never this one. Here's your chance to impress me :pMy car had 135k on it when I bought it (92 5spd gsx). It was all stock with a shitty engine rebuild (felpro and the like). I was very impressed when I bought it but it had a clunking noise in...
Finally some one building an exhaust that works! Some of us don't like mufflers and you've noticed that. You say you're working on that exhaust, so you're going to sell it? Price?
I for one have been a long time member/reader of dsmtalk. It wasn't long ago I joined this forum in my search for more information. I respect both forums and read each almost every day. I even have dsmtalk.com as my home page. But it seems as though it may all be coming to an end soon. For the...
I found these on ebay the other day. (item #7933848806). I emailed the guy and he said his place builds them with off the shelf parts. Not a bad deal if you ask me. I have to either cut my upper arm or the eccentric bolt that holds it to get my poly bushing in and this looks like a good...