So as I researched today I found it really hard to find a place that hot tanks. Also saw on another thread that hot tanking doesn't remove the rust and instead it needs to be thermal cleaned ?! That seemed even harder to find.

What is the process when doing this? I've seen stuff about removing the freeze plugs and pressure washing.It's seeming more like I'm going to have to take the head off. Is there anything I can soak the head in, if in fact it's full of junk?Thanks for the replies so far, I'm trying not to...

At least 12 years

Been working on my 95 talon awd. I knew it needed a new water pump as I could see it leaking down the front of the motor. I pulled the motor, torn the front down, got the water pump out and found the attached pictures. What is this? It's kind of spongy and rust colored. Did I just uncover a...

Really came together nicely! :thumb: Are you a painter by trade? Or is this something you picked up by practicing?

LOL I also found out that I have a few bolts that have turned to glass. The lightest turn of them snaps them off. :D

yeah I know but, it's been sitting for 10 years. I wanted to take it out and give it a once over and this is giving me the opportunity to touch almost everything in the engine bay. so far I've already found a few electrical clips that are busted, a lot of the driveline parts are barely tightened...

I actually have one; I plan on checking it out later today. Honestly just paranoid and can't stop thinking about how much extra work I might have just created :sosad:. Oh well, I'd rather have it done right then just turning a blind eye. Thanks for your suggestions!

Yeah for sure lesson learned. I am pulling the motor because I am replacing the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump and all of the pulleys.

So I'm in the process of pulling the motor/trans in my 2g awd. While removing the electrical clips I pulled the injectors. I had just cleaned the whole engine bay in the beginning of summer. Though, when I pulled the fuel rail I noticed it was dirty around the injectors. Sand could have fell in...

Took some pictures a while ago when doing it but now finally getting time to post. Driver side window replacement, as far as the removal/install procedure I pretty much followed the book. The removal of the window was pretty much done for me :p but it left a huge mess.I removed the interior...

Alright here it goes... I'm a terrible DSM owner. I've owned this TSI since 2010ish. When i bought it it had been sitting in a garage for a few years, not running. It sat in my driveway for a few more years then when i moved it moved to a field. There it has sat for the last 6ish years. I had...

bstaley submitted a new DSM Profile :Brandon's 95 Eagle Talon TSI AWDRead more about this vehicle here...

Thanks for filling that out. You should not be getting fuel cut until like 17+ psi. I suggest you start with a new bov. I think i got mine from craigslist for like 15. Start there and boost leak check like crazy!!

Do you have a tuner? It seems like a bad tune. I had a turbo xs and it was leaking like crazy, switched it out for a 1g and that helped a lot. I don't think you are getting fuel cut. I think its a mix of a bad tune and boost leak. Btw, you should fill out your profile so we know what is on your car.

Had to tune this morning, not sure if its the winter gas but my CombinedFT was like -25%!!!!

Brian thank you so much for your help! I have another project a 95 awd tsi so all this info you shared will go a long way, again thank you so much!

Yes! With those settings the WBFactor was really close. There was some random knock but it didn't get over .7 degrees. Though the injector duty got up to 95% again. Here's the pull:

Have you checked the voltage on your isc?

Well that helped out a lot, im getting double the boost now and my sliders look a lot better. Take a look.Do i have to adjust my timing too or wont I know until I run it? And which way would i change it, most of the time is it up?

Alright finished the blt got it up to about 20 PSi and and held for aprox a min. Now I'm just waiting for the rtv to cure.

Well, my turbo xs bov is junk; I put my 1g on and that fixed it. Though my j-pipe gasket is shot. More tomorrow.I assume, i don't have a FPR yet...

I have the feeling that my temp gauge is not correct because it never goes over half. I looked at some other logs and it seems to get up to 219 degrees. When i do the blt ill check the of ratio of antifreeze to water.

Here is an idle log i just took.I haven't done a blt since before the tb rebuild. I rebuilt the tb because the fiav had a leak. I will do one tomorrow. I thought it was getting pretty crazy with all of those so far down, then again I'm a noob lol. Also so your aware my profile is up to date.

Woo shes running a lot better than yesterday here's the latest log.

Great advice! Made a ton of progress with that tip as you can see in my 26th try below. Though for some reason im getting capped at around 10-13 psi of boost. Also it never seems to go over 4500 rpm.

The second wot is third gear

I have a big problem, 2nd gear WOT from 2k only reaches 3.5k and riches out. I really need help here is the log.

You have to have the ecmlink program to open it.

When I WOT boost goes around 10 psi and AFR is at 9-9.2 . So when this happens the car falls flat, no power. Does it fall flat because its being flooded? Anyway here is my log, any help is appreciated.

That makes me feel betterThat's one thing I do need is a fpr. Should I change the global any?

So I have RC 550's which are supposed to have a dead time of 180 but I had to set mine to 840! Am I missing something?

OK now with the new wide-band, how am i looking?

Wow hand cutting copper shims lol. Very dedicated to saving some coin. I got a ,like new condition, head from craigslist for a 50 spot. After my mill and little thicker gasket I used that permetex copper spray. Have had no issues at all. Just a thought.

That's what it is thank you

Have my dash apart installing my new wide band. I've been looking at this and can't figure out what it does. Its controlled by the switch in the left corner.

Got my mtx-l should be here tomorrow...

Nope it's recirculated.What else would cause that?

From 283 seconds on of the log is idling.

Going to go with mtx-l, haven't found any bad reviews. Amazon has them from Innovate for 174 with free shipping!

I've been eyeing a lc1, though yesterday I read they don't last long. I see you have one, what do you think about it?

Yesterday I watched the jafro video on adjusting the biss and I went to adjust mine and got it to 30. Then in like 10 seconds it moved all the way to 100. This was just on idle too. So I had tested the isc before and one of the test came back 50 so I ordered a new one. Could this cause the issue...

Anyways, bashing aside, can anyone give any insight into this log??

When you first open ecmlink you should see the file path its writing to.

I second that it would be nice to be able to access it from my android!

Seems I'm running really rich, so much that after an oil change I can drive it 10 miles and oil smells like gas and is thin. Please check out my log.log.2012.04.21-03.elg

Should I add any other items to the graph?Here is one i just did. Couple mins on the way home and idle in the drive for a couple.

just got done with a 3 day blt chase, this is the first log ive been able to post. How does it look?

I don't see any info about your car in your profile. What injectors are you running?