Update: Received my US Plastics Check Valve.So, on Wednesday I will have to to do a compression/leak down test. Then I'm going to check the condition of the PCV valve, install the plastic check valve, do an oil change, and check plugs.I'll report back and go from there.:thumb:
I guess the only thing is that you need to cut the flange off more cleanly if your going to weld new circle flanges on there. Shouldn't be a deal breaker, though.Also, I just noticed the 3-inch DP "EVO O2" LONG on RRE's website. I guess if that measured up close to my existing DP and race...
I currently have some fitment issues with my downpipe. (rubs either the oil pan or the T-case and the straight pipe flange sits about 2 centimeters away from the driveshaft) Also, I want to use the EVO3 O2 housing I got a long time ago. So I was thinking a good solution would be to buy the RRE...
Ummm, the PCV is on the valve cover and a hose runs from it to intake manifold. And it draws out excessive crankcase pressure (and whatever doesn't get unburned and sneaks past the piston rings during a rich condition) back into the intake tract.So I guess my question was more like ...
Can a bad PCV in anyway lead to a smell of gasoline in oil?I just want to narrow down the "Gas in Oil" problem I have after I do a compression/leak down test this weekend.Yes I have wideband. 14.5 at idle, 10.5 - 11.2 during WOT.Recently rebuilt head including valve seals and guides...
Have you tried welding a nut on the bracket that master cylinder rod goes into on the pedal assembly to give yourself a few more centimeters of adjustability?I know it can be seen as a bandaid, but I have been running that way for years on ACT 2600 setup.
Yeah that was my next and probably last step for a while. Most likely going to make it a Winter project though.Is there a way to confirm that, like if I do like 3 consecutive pulls it should get progressively worse, right?
Black = Fuel
Blue = Oil
White = Coolant or CondensationSearch "Black Smoke" if it is as such and you will find that it is most likely from lack of catalytic converter, especially at WOT/Boost.
No, for a while I didn't have the SAFC making any corrections at WOT. But then I was able to do a log @ 23PSI and found 1 or 2 counts of knock around 5,000rpm, so I added a couple points of fuel.But I guess that was rich knock and I should really be pulling fuel to get WOT AFR closer to...
Oh I never thought of isolating O2 trims with airflow.Two things:Currently I'm near 14.7 at cruise (which I believe is a testament to the KeyDiver chip), so I wouldn't want to affect that right?At WOT I might get a count or two of knock once and a while even though my AFR is usually...
Yeah I don't think that is possible. I can't directly affect fuel trims with SAFC, I think those get calibrated over time. I think I just have to go in and pull back like 5% fuel and then tune for no knock. I'll try it after I get a better Palm Pilot that doesn't eat batteries so fast.
Sounds like a plan on keeping in the BPR-7ES's.So what would be my best approach on achieving roughly 11.5 AFR during WOT. Should I just set all RPM points on my SAFC to -5 and start datalogging for no knock?For guys still running the SAFC: I know the fine tuning kicks in pretty quickly...
Yeah that makes sense. And it was more like a "why couldn't you do this?" type thing asked by him. I'm gonna set him straight before he starts buying parts, I hope. I wish they would have had things like ECM link back when I got into DSMs in like 2001.I told him that in general, he won't be...
It was a way for me to learn more about tuning and fuel delivery in general from this forum. Sometimes intelligent conversation is more rewarding than just writing someone off.What's Hellaflush?Calan: OK, manifold pressure. Got it.99gst_racer: So if I, for example, were to use...
He does own one. It's a 1990 (late '89 actually) that is seriously mint. And its bone stock. He's not going to modify it because its FWD and he'll probably want to sell it in the near future.He wants to get an AWD platform to build. And in fairness he's an all around knowledgeable guy that...
Hey, I have a SAFC! ;)Thanks for the argument ammunition so far. So far I got:Stock injectors just can't flow enough regardless of pressure
Injectors could get stuck shut
You wouldn't be able to tune for specific RPM/Engine load conditionsReally what it is is that he want to...
So quick question a friend of mine asked me.Why cant we (DSM guys) just run a "boost dependent fuel pressure regulator" with stock injectors and a bigger fuel pump?Basically he's claiming that all the fine tuning with ECM link or fuel controllers, etc.. is unnecessary. He's also saying...
Yeah, I agree with that. I basically want to get all I can out of my current setup. The only exception would be maybe to find an old Dejontool big SMIC. (One day I would like to have a true sleeper 1G. Factory wheels, muffler, no FMIC, nice paint, find an old windown sticker, etc. At that point...
Just a quick clarification.You are not getting 25 "counts of knock" it looks like the most you are getting is 2 counts, but 24 cumulatively. And yeah, it looks like timing is getting pulled a bit for it.Looks to me like you need more fuel. What are your plans?And how is your coolant...
Lets try this ...See attached.I can't quite figure out how to show the actual pull in the text box, can only link to Excel.Does that chart PDF look right?Any thoughts on actual data?Battery value looks sub-par.
Thanks. I've read through most of the threads after searching "black smoke" and I think the consensus was that this was normal without a catalytic converter. I actually have a high-flow cat laying around that I might throw on there but not sure yet.It would be interesting to test a stock DSM...
You have to buy the cable and software from Pocketlogger. It just plugs into diagnostic port and allows you to log on your Palm Pilot. Also, you can read check engine lights and check fuel injector and pump relays. Its what I use, but I do admit that it is old, clunky technology compared to...
I used 4 thin washer to shim the pivot ball, and welded a small nut to the C-clip on the pedal assembly that grabs the master cylinder to give me just about another few centimeters of adjustability.The disengagement point has been rock steady for years now which I honestly was surprised...
No, I'm still doing research on it. I really don't do much wrenching during the week.I'm currently at about 10.8 - 11.2 at WOT, which is mostly just how the Keydiver chip came out of the box.
So you are going to borrow a WB to use? How is that going to work?BTW, I just followed the link on these forums to get the AEM WB for like $175. Well worth it.
I had the same problem and when everything was said and done I had to extend the clutch rod.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/225521-whats-left-low-clutch-disengagement.htmlhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/204214-no-disengagement-tried-everything.htmlI...
Yes I do have a wideband and yes it does go full lean (3 dashes). It does this until you slow down to the point where its essentially idling. (under 1.5k rpm)Does that mean the switch is in working order?Also, SAFC says 0% on decel.
OK. That idle/cruise explanation makes sense.The cylinder head is rebuilt so so valve guides and seals are brand new. (about 1500 miles)Yeah, from what I have read the 190lph pump is probably not overrunning the stock FPR, I have good idle and cruising tune without any real issues...
Thanks for the info. I have the stock 7.8/1 compression pistons.Firstly, I know the 140psi or so is on the low side but I don't think I'll rebuild the engine until it gets lower than that or my goals go higher.I see what your saying that this may just be a tuning issue and I should tune...
Thanks for the PCV info, for some reason some other threads made the connection between inter-gear smoking and excessive crankcase pressure. And I kind of figured the black exhaust soot at startup and idle was normal sans catalytic converter.Let me answer a couple questions:No, I am...