Not trying to knock anyone's ideas here. The reason everyone is going to start flaming is because the question posed is against the idea of visiting a performance oriented site. It isn't a question really of if an awd car has to have a turbo, of coarse it doesn't. It doesn't even have to be...
+1Your booster is what gives you your power brakes. If the diaphragm inside is cracked, then your engine vacuum does not create a negative pressure differential inside the booster, eliminating the "power assist" and makes your brake system into a manual system. To boot, power assist...
Be very cautious taking the advice of people quoting the timeslips of some of the fastest in their class. Not saying that FWD can't achieve fast 60' times, just that 99% of the time, people don't have the resources that the record setters have at their discretion. That being said, it's hard to...
Best fix, ECMlink and some seat time getting the tune in with no knock.Band aid would be something along the lines of Ostrich or AFC, but in the long run, you're better off doing it right the first time, and just save up for the ECMlink.You will need it in the long run because you're...
I'm not going to quote any 100% verified answers on the more carbon buildup for high octane fuels, but I have seen many many people debate over it. Stating the slower burn time causes more deposits or more time for the fuel to soak into deposits causing more buildup.Not saying I agree...
I said stock.These are your mods right?MODS: Engine & Engine ManagmentLarge FMIC
FP Green Spec Turbo @ 14.6psi
3" IC piping
3" exhaust
3" GM MAF(No MAP or IAT)
ECMlink V3that is from your post about a possible bad tune.
I'm pretty sure I did say STOCK 200 hp.
This is a frustrating thread to read. It's so close to bench racing it isn't funny. Everyone who hasn't hit 400 awhp wants to know what's the easiest/quickest/safest way to do it. And what parts they should use. They all start with a list of parts they are looking at, have no budget in mind...
+1 for that. You're right, they've probably been in their friends stock GSX with a boost controller, who told them that his car was "around 300 horse".It's like working out. You don't set out with goals to bench 500 pounds when you start, you'll never get there. You set a goal of 200 or...
Yeah, that's pretty much how I feel. A good 16g or 20 build most likely won't be in the 500whp range, but it's reliable and fun. It's almost like no one realizes that C5 Z06's only put down 330-350whp stock, and I don't think you'll find a Vette owner anywhere who says his car is slow!
I love my DSM. Bought my 91 Tsi in 2002 and have spent way to much money on a car that is supposed to be owned by a bunch of cheap speed freaks lol. They take very little to go fast, but I feel like I have been overwhelmed by the number of threads and comments from people whom I can only...
If I were you, I would crawl under the dash, and look at the clutch pedal assembly. There is a long rod that goes from the clutch pedal to where the master cylinder on the firewall. It is maybe 12-15 inches long if memory serves correct. It is connected to the master cylinder from here, and...
If $300 seems expensive for something like cutting and welding in new body panels or sheet metal to repair rust damage, I suggest purchasing a relatively new car just a few years old with under 75000 miles, and living with the $250-$600 a month payment. If I were a union welder, I wouldn't do...
Yeah I had a friend who's car got scratched, and another who lost power steering. Both victims of crankwalk!Seriously thought, remove the clutch and inspect it before as quoted from Office Space, "Jumping to conclusions"
Why would you even ask this to a performance forum? Sure, if you just want something that "looks" fast, go for it. If that's what you want, why bother with DSMtuners? Everyone here should be about performance, regardless of looks. Asking about a non turbo car with coilovers and body kit and...
My sister married her middle school band teacher, which led to a horrible relationship which she left him to avoid his social "anxiety". Afterwards I found out the my parents had changed their will to leave everything to me to avoid that asshole getting any dime of their money. She left him...
Speaking from a 16g standpoint, I doubt it, unless you have several other mods that you don't have listed, and unless you have a really good tuner to rework your tune pass after pass. The 16G is a great street turbo in any form, but looking for 350 AWHP, means realistically putting 400 or so at...
Sounds like worn out valve stem seals. When you are off the gas, the intake valves "suck" oil past the seals, and when you hit the gas, you will blow bluish smoke, much like sitting at a stoplight and taking off.
Wow, that might have been the best information I've gotten yet 99gst. Thanks for that, it was kind of the power per clutch information I was looking for. Might give that 6 puck a shot then, worst case scenario, with the amount I drive the car, I upgrade to the twin disc in a couple more years...
The new gear drive from quartermaster uses a single disc on the input shaft, instead of two separate floating hubs, which allows them to run the single disc on the full length of the splines (1.550" vs .850" on the separate hub design) This is meant to prevent increased wear on the input shaft...
Ok, so on the new build with Eagle rods, and Ross 8.2 pistons, I have elected to go with a Magnus street SMIM, as well as recently purchasing a Borg Warner S256 ETT .70 A/R with a Fat Fab T3 header. My goal is to be in the 22 psi range on pump gas, and 30-35 psi on race fuel depending on tune...
Is your slave cylinder rod moving when you're pushing in the clutch? Have someone check it while you are depressing the clutch pedal. If it isn't moving, you might be in need of a clutch pedal rebuild. In addition, was your pivot ball inspected when you had it apart? If it is worn down, it...
Well it sounds like I'll be ok with it, other than giving up a little bit of mid-range, so I'll run it and see how it performs. Sounds like I won't be starving a cylinder of air, at least with my mods so far. Thanks.
Thanks for that. Not trying to sound paranoid, just want as much info as I can get before burning up a cylinder on a fresh motor. Still wouldn't mind hearing from some people who have a Magnus SMIM on their car with no problems, but at least it's a little peace of mind.
to LiQUiDx, I appreciate you looking out for bad responses. That being said, I can tell a legitimate answer vs. "build you own" lol. I do appreciate it tho, seeing as I'm still a "newbie"
That being said, I was referring to such debates about the Magnus such as this...
Ok, I've got my mods listed in my profile, may have forgot that the walbro 255 has been rewired.
Getting ready to drop in the new Ross/Eagle combo on the motor build, and came across a Magnus street SMIM for cheap and added it to the build. I love the cleaner look it gives the install, but...
yeah, usually won't run at all with that code.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/269002-car-wont-start-no-fuel-prime-no-spark.html#post151265626maybe this will help
+1By the way, your mods list isn't filled out in your profile, are you replacing a 100% stock motor with 100% stock? If so, it's pretty straight forward. If you're looking to put some mods and/or have some in progress, that would be a little more helpful to know what you are looking for.
$1700 for my 91 Tsi awd in 2003, with 127k on it. Have since put $15k into it, and it is currently going through it's 2nd build... Eyes on 11's, wish me luck. :ohdamn:
FYI if you aren't familiar with using a multimeter, be sure to check out the owners manual if it comes with on (some of the cheap $20 ones are just the meter and leads)
and be absolutely sure that you have your leads in the proper holes for testing amperage! Some meter's (Ahem, Fluke) use a...
Sounds like a belt squeak to me. I would shut the engine off, hit your belts with a shot of silicone spray, and restart the engine. If the noise goes away, then you just need to purchase a couple new belts and make sure to tension them correctly.
what struts/coilovers are you running that you want to put hypercoil springs on? I'm a little frustrated here because there isn't any info provided in your profile on what you are running, yet you want to know what springs you should run.
You can run crappy springs with good shocks and have...
before you drill it oversized and tap it, try drilling a smaller hole in the center and using an easy out you can buy at a local parts store or sears harbor freight, etc. Also, soak it in pb blast to help loosen it up, and if you have access to acetylene torch, than will make it easier, if not...
Ross pistons for an economical upgrade that will last for your 20g.
As for the head, have to have a machine shop check it to see if it's salvageable with new valves only.As for the 6 or 7 bolt, here's a linkhttp://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html
Is the mesh wide enough to fold over and use some self tapping screws to hold it in? Would be more reliable than trusting an epoxy to hold the mesh in place.
I certainly can't speak for everyone, but as a general rule of thumb for me, every time I take one thing apart to fix/upgrade it, I find two or three more things that need to be fixed to make my first fix/repair worthwhile. i.e. exhaust+intercooler pipe=blown turbo=cylinder head off for new...
There's a couple common things that can cause this. If the window lift motor is pulling to much amperage, it can blow the fuse. This could be the issue, as the motor ran the window down, but when adding the weight of the window going back up. (Puts more load on the motor than going down)...
Also, check for play in the clutch pedal assembly. Look at the focal point where the clutch pedal is attached to the master cylinder. There is a slotted hole where the pedal assembly has a rectangular hole going into the bracket to the master cylinder. If the corners are rounded, allowing the...
First off, this is a crazy build, I love it. Second, thanks for pushing the limits of what we consider an "entry level" turbo. I can completely understand wanting the record, but am unwilling to gut every bit of the car, but I love seeing someone who wants to. It's nice to know what the turbo...
There is a big difference between whether something CAN be done, and whether it can be SAFELY done. For all the same reasons listed above, I would have to err on the side of caution and say I might hold off putting the s16g on until you had a 190 pump, some 550's and a fuel management of some...
1Ga exterior door trim pieces. Both the ones halfway down the door, and the skirts at the bottom. We don't want those awful looking aftermarket body kits, we just want our cars to look as good as when they were new, and searching junkyards for 20 year old plastic body trim is getting worse and...
Or even check your local parts store, and tell them you need to look at their molded heater hoses. Should be able to find one with a molded 180 bend or so that will be long enough to hook up the the engine in both spots without kinking. And probably only be $10 to $15
are they original lifters? If so, maybe consider upgrading to the revised lifters, which use the bigger 3mm oil channel (as opposed to the original ones which were about 1 or 1.5 mm) Better oil flow = no tick
where exactly are you stuck at? after getting the timing cover and belt off, it's pretty straight forward unbolt and install new pump/o-ring. Are you having trouble getting the timing cover removed???
Here's a link that covers start to finish pretty well..Mitsubishi DOHC Timing Belt...