My suggestion is that if you're going to start replacing bushings, just bite the bullet and get polyurethane bushings. Energy suspension makes a master kit for the front and rear suspension for ~$150. The hardest part will be pressing the old bushings out(find someone with a shop press, it'll...

Come on man, you're in school for engineering (as am I) and you didn't take into consideration which surface was load bearing??????? *tisk tisk*.(kidding around BTW).Yes, caps can be cleaned up to a degree, but definitely don't remove much material.

To start with, minus the front cam journals(ones by the cam gears) the bottom side of the journals are non-load bearing surfaces, therefore minor damage to that face is not a concern. I'd be much more interested to see what the cam caps looked like since they are your load bearing surface. As...

While there are plenty of oil cooled turbos, I'll agree that they don't always need water cooling. If the charger has the capability to be water cooled, why not use it? Here's an article that helps explain it better than I can...

I've actually got that same system on my car, the car had it when I bought it. Now that I've got a customized 3" o2 housing and down pipe off of my PTE and removed the resonance chambers(the 2 little what look like cherry bombs in the exhaust) it sounds amazing and you can hear the turbine...

Oiling grooves go toward the crank, as that's how oil moves down the bearing to get to the entire surface of the crank thrust flange. Also pre-lube the sides that go against the crank, the ones with the oiling grooves.

The one that they have will be very difficult to use on our heads. They're usually generic lever spring compressors, to be used on springs that protrude from the top of the head, but ours are recessed inside the head.

There's a lot of factors beside just run time. I can't really give you a mileage number, but I will give you a way to test without getting a bunch of expensive measuring equipment. I call it the wiggle test, pull the springs off, pull the valve out about 1/2"-1"(just enough to where you can get...

Plus with worn guides, you'll be sacrificing valve-seat sealing. You'll also see accelerated valve-wear because instead of the entire valve closing at once and centered(as its supposed to) one side or the other with close first and then as the rest of the valve closes(not centered) the valve...

I'm not sure about him, but I absolutely love to, or at least learn the subject as I'm somewhat green on suspension physics.

I've got the VRSF short route front mount kit on my car and honestly I don't even remember the AC lines being an issue at all. The only thing that I had problems with fitment wise was the 2gb fog lites. I've read that there are ways to modify them to work in the factory location but I didn't...

Also as far as new cable end bushings, I highly doubt that your local autoparts store will have anything. I would suggest any of the cable end bushings on this page: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance PartsMe personally I bought these: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In...

Currently building with an HX35 and using a Tial MVR(44mm) waste gate.

Or you could take it to a welder and see if they could knock out the JB weld and actually lay a bead on the crack/hole that was patched with JB weld.

You said that you hear the noise AFTER turning the engine off, as the engine begins to cool, correct? If that's the case, then you're just hearing all the metal components in the engine returning to their normal size. Due to thermal expansion, when components heat, they expand, and as they begin...

Running dry lifters would act in the exact oposite way that you're thinking, as there would be no oil in the lifter to counter act the force of the cam pushing down, so therefore you'd have less valve lift as the cam would compress the lifter before it would compress the valve spring. I also...

Coming from experience, lifters that are full of oil will bleed out over a short period of time, so even if you installed them completely full of oil to where you couldn't compress them at all by hand, once you stuck them in the engine and turned it over a few times within about 15 minutes...

If you're planning on putting a bigger turbo in the car, then you're also going to want to look into new injectors and some type of tuning solution, because larger turbo on stock tune and injectors=fuel cut. As far as porting, Jafromobile has a few good videos on youtube that would give you an...

The cam followers/rockers in our engines have rollers, which ride on needle bearings similar to these. You said that you had the valve cover off of your engine, did you take a look at the rockers and did any of them seem different than the rest? Did you make a close inspection of each one, or...

^^^^^^^^^ +1

Have you seen any issue with your tires contacting the fender wells?

How bad did the cylinder walls look after this? Or did you just pull the oil pan off and roll the new bearing in without tearing th engine donw to check for damage?

I'm going to have to disagree here, a broken rod is not the only thing that could cause an engine to sieze. A spun rod/main bearing can also lock up an engine pretty tight.(I have seen this multiple times on the engines that come back to the build area here at work off of tests)Also to the...

I would assume that the relay is in th main fuse block in your engine bay. the cover of the fuse block has a map to locate all the fuses/relays.

I'm pretty sure that trailer coverage would cover whatever you're hauling in/on the trailer

Generally the track/event promoter carries their own insurance coverage(that's why you have to pay higher prices to be in the pits/on the track than just sitting in the stands). My assumption would be that their insurance policy also covers the competetors against being sued in the event of an...

There's a factory amp under the passenger seat, the one you traced back to the seat belt connects the factory radio to the factory amp

Don't forget the bracket on the back of the engine that connects between the bottom of the intake manifold and the block.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/207-4203.pdf 80 ft/lb, from ARP's web site.crap, that was for a 2Ghttp://arpinstructions.com/instructions/207-4201.pdf 90 ft/lb for a 1G

It might also be that big 120?amp alternator fuse in the engine fuse block, I just remembered that I shorted that fuse out once when I was trying to disconnect the possitive lead off the alternator by touching the rachet I was using to the block (yes I was in a bit of a hurry and forgot to...

I had a similar issue with my 98 GSX where one day on the way home I hit a bump in the road (headlights were already one so I didn't notice it at the time) but the horn just started going off out of no where and it wouldn't shut off, I ended up just unplugging the horn so it wasn't so annoying...

IAC motor sticking? I'm guessing when you were corning you had the clutch in and you let off the throttle, correct?

Again, like 97_4g63t said, under boost you're going to have positive pressure on the inside of the piping(greater than atmospheric). Also are you sure that you're under boost when you're doing this? most of the time a our cars won't build boost if they're in neutral and you're just reving the...

In the area of injectors/fuel pump, I'd say that 1650's are a bit excessive on race fuel. Now if you were running alcohol I could understand that big of injectors. I'd say 1000-1200cc would be plenty to handle an HX 35 with a stock rotating assembly(non stroker/hi compression). Also unless...

Good luck man, I'd advise finding someone in your area to come help you with it.

Honestly with how the density of the smoke changes when you crack the throttle would suggest to me an exhaust leak, not just burning oil. Does it smell like it's burning oil?

What part of Indy are you in?If you're near the south side, take a trip down to Ray Skilman's south side mitsu and talk to Brian Terhune in their shop, he's probably one of the best in this area when it comes to DSM/Evo's. Plus if you've had the block and head both to a machine shop to get...

Nope, they're different lenghts.

I got ya, I didn't mean it to sound like I was questioning your abillites or anything, just something that I thought I remembered reading.

All of your attachments are coming up and saying "invalid attachment"Looking at the pics of your engine bay I saw that you t-ed into your BOV signal line. I'm guessing that the hose coming off of it goes to your boost guage? I've seen it posted on here before that it's not a good idea to tie...

My stage 2 Shep came with instructions to change the trans oil every 3k miles with your engine oil, but in reading that would be every 4th oil change for you. However, I could certainly be wrong, wouldn't be the first time :)

Do you see any damage on the combustion face of the head? If the top of the piston separatated from the rest of the rotating assembly then it's likely to have made contact with the head. And if that's the case, then I'd be very leary of reusing the head.

What exactly do you mean by this?

You said that you eliminated one of the balance shafts? I would advise you that you not drive the car any more until you either replace the one that you elimnated, or finish the delete. You're in Indy? If you're on the South Side, go down to Ray Skillman Mitsu in Greenwood and talk to Brian...

If you decide to go full out and have someone rebuild it for you or maybe just give you some pointers on how to, call Brian Trehune he lives on the east side of Indy and he has a web site http://www.terhuneraceworks.com/ (it's still under construction, but it has his number) He sold me the...

I think you need a little bit of editing, I believe what you meant was that there are a different number of bolts holding the flywheel to the crank. Sorry to correct you, but we didn't want anyone thinking in V-8 terms where 4bolt would mean there are 4 bolts per main cap.

Well, the bolt that holds the intermediate shat to the back of the '98 block is snapped off and I did a pretty good numer on the bolt trying to get it out without taking the engine itself out, in any case it's a little too late to go back now(the enigne is already assembled and installed in the...

ah, I see thanks for the info, so if our block uses the 1 piece thrust bearing, is it necessarily doomed to crank walk, or if it has aftermarket thrust bearings and the block and crank have been machined is it possible that we're safe? I ask because I just took the '98 7 bolt out of my car and...

not trying to noob this thread up, but can someone tell me how you pull off a 1 piece thrust bearing? Did the just put a thrust bearing on the top or the bottom main? Thanks for the answers, and if anyone has a link to a better explanation it'd save you quite an amout of typing trying to explain it.

Recirced BOV and no you souldn't need to get a new intake, just drill a hole in the intake and tap it, or get someone to weld in a bung that you can attach a pipe nipple to, to replace the port that was welded closed. And on your frankly horrible gas milage, I'm not really sure I can diagnose...