Got a new pc and installed ecmlink, firmware and everything is up to date, but some of the values aren't showing up like lc1wb, omni4Bar, gmiat......Are these removed?
Starting to retune my car and I did a pull and let out because of knock light, turn around and did the pull again on same road with no changes and no knock? Can someone take a look at this log and tell me are you seeing something changing that would cause that? Have had this problem any times...
The liquid in the gage has leak out and the pressure drops instantly when I shut the car off. It holds the correct psi tho. Could the gage be the problem or AFPR? I took it apart and the diaphragm is fine.
I'm running the Hx35/bep .55 setup now and I'm considering a hx40. Before I switch I was wondering thoughts on the hx35 in t3 form vs the hx40 in bep. 55 housing.
Had a out the blue job change and I can't get a hold of My1GDSM ( said something about a network crash or something). We have been retuning on E-85 and I can't find it anywhere in the Charlotte area. Question is, will I be safe to go back to 93 on the E-85 tune as long as I don't get on it? If...
Ok car cut off on me today and before it cut off it went all the way lean on my wb. Had someone try to crank it while I looked at the afpr and it wasn't reading anything. So I expected fuel pump, BUT I can hear it cut on when I activate it in link and it will try to start with and without it...
Got a 1993 AWD Talon and my gage cluster stopped working. I can still read values thew link, but nothing works on the dash besides speed and odometer. I did notice it went out after giving a jump so I checked every fuse in the car. Could be coincidence that it stopped working after that, just...
I have a Jacks 2.1 awd tranny that just started to make a popping or clicking sound (almost like cv joints), but it only does it in 1st gear. Goes in all gears flawless as usual. Had it put on a lift today to assure it was coming from the tranny. What problems I'm I looking at here?
My power locks locks and unlocks back and forth for a while before they stop. I changed both driver side and passenger side actuators and still same problem. I noticed some wires inside the door cut today and wonder what they went to? Here is pics of where they're located (inside door running to...
I changed out my 255 to 450 today and I had about 3/4 tank of gas now its showing less than 1/4 tank. Guess I'll pull it back out, but what do I check for? This is a 1g awd if it matters.
My MTX-L wb took a dump on me and I either have to send it off for repair or buy a new one. I'm thinking the car wouldn't run once I take the gage out to send it in for repair so my question is will the car just have to be down with the gage out? It runs now but I can tell the difference. If...
Back seat was ment from day 1 so its still factory, but the fronts were trash. The guy did a hell of a job to me. Don't mind the dirty floor, I hadn't had time to vacuum the mess from the old seats.:D:D I shoulda took some before pics. Even got the pin holes in the middle!!!
My clear cam cover is all hosed up due to some kind of fluid/liquid getting on it. Its been like this for a while and has been getting worse and I need to figure out what it is before I buy a new one. Only thing I can think of in close vicinity that could get any kind of fluid/liquid on it is...
My goal was 450 whp. I made 458 corrected/424 whp uncorrected and that was falling from 32 psi to 25-26ish from about 6,000 rpm to 8,000 rpm. I'm in the process of trying to hold boost and retune because there should be more left in my Hx35 setup. With that said where would you draw the line...
Looking at my wires if I'm looking in the correct spot, one wire is red and one wire is orange. Every place I've seen says they are orange, orange/yellow. Its ran in the same bunch of wires as the maf before they branch out into there own. Its a 93 tsi awd and I'd like confirmation since...
Thought that my seats were black leather but after searching it seems they are rare dark grey/charcoal. Guess that explains why I can't find them anywhere :cry:. Anyways my front seats looks like trash and the back seat and the rest of my cars interior is mint and I'm looking for options here...
Was almost done tuning and my car started to break up around 4-5k rpm wot and I need to chase the problem down so I can finish. The car drives good and pulls good except if I go wot and does the same thing even when I ran 18 psi wg pressure. Most threads I've read say check plugs and wires...
Well I was doing a blt yesterday at 35psi regulated pressure and the gage on the tester would only go up to 10-12psi. I could here the leak so I got out the soapy water and sprayed in the area on the turbo where the c-clamp keeps the compressor housing on and its leaking pretty bad in the area...
Need help troubleshooting my nlts. I have 1g(93) with v3 and a straight wire ran from pin 104 of my ecu to the green/black wire on the clutch switch and the rev limit is hitting nlts setting. I can crank the car up with and without the clutch switch hooked up so I think that's where my problem...
It holds 18psi WG pressure fine without the mbc connected and with the mbc connected it holds around 23-24psi to my desired rpm. Anything above that it falls back down to 24-25ish psi. Right now it hits 30psi before falling to 29-28ish in the 5000rmp range and around the 6000rpm range its...
Well we have proved I'm at the limit of 93 by running 110. The car just doesn't like more than 18-20psi with low timing on 93. With that said the closest E-85 station to me is 35mins away(22 miles). I think its too far for a dd, but I'm looking for other thoughts on it. I'm really...
I've recently moved my bov from the front of the intake manifold (stock 1g) port to the "P" port on the tb so I could run my map sensor without "T"ing it and now bov flutters. Is the "P" port a good enough source for the bov?I've read some threads on this but none had answers that I felt...
Switched to SD today and started it up and took a little drive and it wasn't running smooth so I took it back home to take a break and when I went to try to dial in combft again the car won't start. It just turns over and over. What do I need to check for? This is just a log I'll post to make...
I'm thinking about tapping it but with some of the fitting setting in the pipe, will it cause a small flow restriction or should I say cause it not to have a smooth flow transition(you know what I'm getting at). Or would drilling a hole and wielding a piece on it be better since there won't be...
I've came to a conclusion of running a .075 restrictor and a -12 hose for oil drain for my Hx35 setup. My question is will the hole on the oil pan itself need to be bigger? I'll have the 19mm recommended drain coming out the turbo, but will the stock size hole on the 1g oil pan be big enough...
I have Mitsubishi factory bolts from my fp manny to my stock turbine housing and I'm wondering if they will work with the BEP housing for the Hx35? If not what bolts do I need to get?
Wondering if you can use a round filter on the fp 4" intake pipe since its oval shaped. I've read the thread about guys using the 9" k&n filter, but I don't want to use that one. Also is there another 4" intake pipe you guys are using? Pics would be nice.
I'm trying to figure out the size of my compressor wheel on my Hx35, but where do I measure the wheel at because the top of the wheel is going to be the smallest and get larger as I measure down.
I had my mind set on gm maf with ecm cable and the more I read and kinda understand it, seems SD might be the way to go. With my lack of tuning will SD be the right choice for me after the 1st initial setup is done? And with the gm maf cable(not running the translator) does it still a tuning...
Going hx 35 and its in a 1g. My setup now with the 2g maf and 20g puts my filter right up against the inside passanger finder. With the new setup, will I have enough clearance with the 2g maf? Also is the fp 4" pipe shorter than the 2g injen intake pipe or should I go ahead and switch to gm...
Well I've seen alot of guys including myself struggle with the 1g master cylinder rod adjustment running out of thread and still being able to push in the slave cylinder by hand. With this happening you can't really adjust the clutch like in Jacks video. I've fought this problem every since...
Been trying to track down my knock issue today so we did some trouble shooting. We unhooked the knock sensor from the connector and turned the threshold down to 1200rpm and when I pat the gas ecm link is showing 3.2 counts of knock. With it plugged up correctly and I rev up at idle(car on) its...
No leaks, 170 compression with kelford 272s and it idles very good. I can't figure out why I'm getting knock. All basic things has been checked and motor was rebuilt 1,400 miles ago. My profile is up to date. It runs perfect until I try to tune doing 3rd gear pulls. Here are todays pulls.
Well my clutch started to feel like crap today so I bled it. First I pushed in the slave piston to try the reverse method and now I can only get pressure when I have the bleeder locked down, pedal up and then push in the slave piston. I went back to the traditional way and it won't build any...
Well I had a 1g 7 bolt built that crankwalked on me with less than 1,000 miles and in the the process it took out my turbo and the oil pump was on its way. The walk was so bad it scared my block and I was almost at the point of cutting my losses and stepping away from the dsm game because I was...
What is too much oil pressure and what kind of damage can it cause besides blowing seals in a turbo? Is high oil pressure bad for bearings? The pressure is measured right after the oil pump at the oil sending unit and by the time the oil reaches other parts of the motor wouldn't there be...
I have a almost new OEM master and slave and the master is adjusted all the way out and the clutch seems a little notchy at times. I can't adjust it out anymore at all. I have bled it plenty of times also. When my builder put the tranny back in I told him to shim it because I was having this...
I pretty much know the anwser to the question from the research on here, but my builder says to take a poll of guys that really has had a ACT t.o.b. failure. So only if you have had ACT t.o.b failure, vote and post your story here. Same as if you had OEM failure.
Well my engine will be getting the oil pan put on today and my builder has a set of arp mains and a kiggly girdle he is offering to put in for a good price. I'm just nervous about not having it line honed and the other machine work is already done. Yes I've researched, but theres seems to be no...
I have a set of injectors that needs seals and they are PTE/Delphi injectors. I found these at STM and I want to make sure they will work. Here is a link to the seals and I included a pic of the injectors.FIC | FUEL INJECTOR CLINIC | INJECTOR SEAL KIT
I have a bastard 20g and I want to make 400 whp. Seems bigger turbo is a safer route and keep in mind I'm limited to pump 93 or I would just run e85. My options are to keep 20g add meth/water or sell 20g and run a bigger turbo on 93. For the ones that say bigger turbo, which turbo? This is a DD.
According to the motoman break in you should drive it hard. It states the 1st 20 miles the rings should seat(correct me if I'm wrong). I see a lot of people saying to wait 1000+ to switch to synthetic or good oil. If the motor is broke in the motoman way and rings are set why can't you go...
The title sums it up, going from 1g 7bolt to 6 bolt. What parts can I keep since the 1g 7 was just rebuilt. Talking parts like timing stuff, timing lower cover, water pump etc, you know, the small things.