I still have the big 16 bolted on. I like the lag cause it reminds me of my 400 bb w/ barrel carb back in the day

What other parts that are metal or plastic?

I want us to build a list of hard to find parts to help people see what possible bumps they could hit in the road and possibly help vendors know what we need to keep dsms alive.

I seconded this as well. I always take the cross member off. Makes life so much easier. If I remember right there four 17mm bolts. But when you are prying on this, pry one side at a time .

Man handle it. Just don't go crazy on it. Also dont forget to take your clutch slave cylinder off.

Double check amd make sure all the bolts are out along with the mount. But its the transmission shaft thats giving you trouble. You'll need a pry bar to make life easy. Just show it whos boss

You definitely want to reinstall the motor mount after the trans has been removed. The hardest part is reinstalling the trans. But I did it on a gravel drive way. It is a must to have your jack under your engine so you don't put to much strain on the motor mount. That's if you decide to leave...

Oh okay cool. Could i even use this or does it suppose to connect to another borad?

Found in a eclipse i bought

Fill out your profile so it will be easier for us to help you in the future.

Everyone here is going to scream dsmlink. (ecmlink) same thing. I would recommend that to you as well. Since its user friendly and cheap

You have to recirculate the bov. I wouldn't be driving it around your just asking for trouble. You need a wideband and a safc at least. But honestly if I were you I would get 450cc injectors and do my homework on these cars first. I'm from domestic cars my self. But there's ALOT to know about...

you can unhook it and go with your mbc. What are you tuning with?

You can find all your questions on here there is a write up with pics on what connectors are for what. Use google to search and type dsm after what you ask. If you don't have tuning software or device for your car, I wouldnt drive it around with 640cc injectors. That's to much for that little...

Forgot to mention to say thanks for everyone's help on this issue. :-)

Okay I figured it out. One of my intake valves isn't sealing on cylinder one. Everything was just machined. I bet I was dumb enough to actually accidentally put a old intake valve back in. Lol It had 22% loss and the others 0%.

I was able to take it for another ride. It does it has i get closer to a shifting point. or if I keep it forth gear going 40-45mph. It does it in fifth but you can barely tell its doing it. I also have a parasitic battery drain. Cause I started to do a compression test, my battery ended up...

Of course my battery is dead.lol must have left a light on...

Man I can't tell you how many times I did a boost leak test.lol i forgot to mention it does hit 16 on the wideband when it stumbles on the wideband. But it also did this when i had the 450s in. But the wideband was normal. I'll make a video and post it some time tomorrow. Also fuel...

It's between -15 to -5 vac is when it does it. I have to go into boost so it stops. It does do it in all gears but its little less noticeable cursing in 5th.

I can seem to figure this out. I've took care of all of my boost leaks and checks plug and gaped them to .28, cleaned fuel injectors, its a rebuilt engine, I'm now running my 550cc injectors and had this same problem with the 450cc. Coil packs new, rebuilt throttle body, rebuilt turbo, replaced...

The 550cc took care of that issue. But she seems like she's missing before going into boost or even cursing. You guys think its because it needs a better tune? I have a rough tune on it from rre.

Lol. Well I will pop in the 550s and see what she does.

Stumbles while cursing.

I was thinking about putting them back in. But it spits while crusing. I cleaned the fuel injectors with air pressure and carb cleaner and they spray good. My wideband hasn't showed me going lean yet plus i feather the gas pedal so it doesn't over boost. But I have to kick the turbo on to stop...

I took it for another test drive last night. Just cruising no WOT pulls. It likes to spit here and there cruising. Haven't done any more test yet, it's way to hot out.lol

It's zeroed out. Sorry should of cleared that up. I just don't want to have to tune it because I don't have a logger or link.

I didn't know I had that option. I do have my flapper ported though.

I forgot to mention I'm not running a boost controller. I'm guessing it's time for a new wastegate...? I've only been driving the car to figure out the issues that I'm having. I do have a safc but haven't but missed with it in 4 years.lol I just want to drive the car stock to break everything in...

Come to find out it already has the ngr diaphragm. It sounds like an rs bov. I can never get the whistle. Ideas?

This is a weird issue I have. i used soap and water to find the leaks I had. My turbo likes to creep to 18psi-20psi, running 450cc, bucks at 5500 then sometimes 6000 at WOT, my wideband will go -- when it bucks. But even if I go 60-75% throttle to keep around to 10-12psi it will buck very little...

Is it more towards the trans then you might need to shim it.

Whats the placement of your clutch fork?

I figured it out. There is an o-ring on the valve its self that was bad.

It's leaking out the dump. Is their a way to fix this? I have it adjusted the best I could. When I rev the engine the valve likes to close first then open when I let off the throttle. I thought its suppose to be closed at idle.

That's sucks. I bought a new 2g pump and Mazda stub shaft and had no to very little play.

I'll take the ecu.

Just enjoy it. To much $$$ in the end.

It should be a m8 1.25 or a m6 1.0. You can take another bolt off and take it to the hardware store to match it up. Your going to have to go there anyway right. All three are the same size.

Oh okay.lol I guess I had a blonde moment. Thanks guys.

I used a 4mm tap to check the gap. Which checked out but I can still put my tension pin back in even after rotating it. It also sat for a day as well. I don't remember before beinging able to do that. Everything is new.

I had mine break on me last week. I welded a nut to it and got it loose after the third time welding it. Lol.

Used sea foam to find my exhaust leaks and it works great! Just used my vacuum line from the bov and let it suck up a little sea foam. That's all you really need cause it will smoke for a little while. Now I need the motivation to do it.lol

Finally got my car running good after three years of building it. After a few days I'm running rich at idle.lol It's too humid to work on anything today.

Did you have someone turn the wheel for you while you watch the strut? I had the welds break on the bottom plate underneath the spring before.

:thumb:Awesome

Start here. Your head gasket should be fine but you might wanna get the fan issue resolved.

I like that color

You have a volt meter? Check the volt meter for any resistance

I wonder if a short in the wire can cause this? Hopefully someone will chim in