Now need parts to be installed!

Car looks hella clean! Any rust?

Oh shit! totally mis read. What that price in USD?

I would delete the balance shaft, and then see if you can rebuild your 4g63.

Do a search for a 2.4 with DOHC. I think there were some guys who were doing that on the 2.4's

I love this idea i'm just not sure if i'm ready to lose the ability to roll my windows down.

You would need to find a gs or rs shell. your spyder gs is non turbo and the motor and harness is different from turbo to turbo.Maybe you could buy the gst shell then get a motor and build another car and sell your spyder.

I don't understand all of the drivetrain stuff(way over my head) but I'm excited to see it come together and curious how it will hold up.

My car is lowered on eibach pros. No I still have 2ga knuckles in the rear. Should be able to search and find pictures of the differences. 2ga is like a sweeping curve where the 2gb has more of a notch to it. But tons of 2gb guys fit way wider tires than guys with 2ga knuckles. The difference is...

Jmf fuel rail is 10 orb. I just got one for Christmas from the wife.

Biggest issue with a 2ga is the knuckle. The 2gb knuckle has more clearance. On my Evo wheels I run a 235/45r17. The fd are 26x9.5x16

You can run a set of fd wheels with spacers and they will clear brembo brakes. Also one of the rotas clear as well but I'm not sure which one.

Love seeing the progress. If you need help hollar!

You will be able to meet your goal with the hx40 you have now. I made 438hp on a loaded dyno with a bolt on hx35, 35psi and e85.

Added them to my green 2g. Already have them on my black 2g. Now to add them to my red laser.

Sick! Can't wait to see it mocked up!

Probably a dab of lock tite to keep them from moving

If your car looks bad ass,(which it does) then it needs to be bad ass. With that turbo setup you should be able to drop another built bottom end in and achieve the same goal you are after and it be just as reliable as if you were going to a smaller turbo.

I would look at any of the rwd setups and go from there. A lot of what you will need for a mighty max or conquest is going to be the same. There was an ad(cant remember if it was here or fb) where a guy was selling quite a bit of rear wheel drive items. Like rear sump modified to pick up in the...

Have them on both sides of one my cars. Need to order for the other cars.

I picked one up as well. Very nice piece.

I don't know if you will be able to find a set. If you do find some let me know.

What happened to the guy gixrman he used to make a baller set. Wish I could find those. They used dzus fasters.

I would be interested as well. I am building an auto car.

Welcome! There are a few of us in the KC area. Hopefully we will get together for a BBQ after this is all over.

I use the AEM analog gauge as well. Works very well and can simulate narrow band off it.

Is there a way to post a picture while on your phone without hosting it on Photobucket or something?

Ignition and ac are the same. it has happened many times before it is ok. Does it run now?

there should be a wire that runs to the starter that needs to be plugged on to the male connector on it. I searched and searched for no start issue then found out i forgot to hook that up.

I think it looks good. A lot of people bashed the 2005 Mustang when it came out and look at it now. I think it is a start to something new. Auto makers seem to be bring back a lot of the cars from back in the day. Now if only they would bring back a two seater awd eclipse life would be complete.

Yeah just select your maf plug type at the bottom drop down!

Degreeing them in may help a big cam idle friend of mine didn't pull enough vacuum at idle till the cams were degreed in.

Call your local dealer in the morning they should be able to get them for you.

That looks very good! I like it!

There is a seal that goes there if your using the 2ga style of sensors. Here it is at extremepsi.comhttp://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=28129&cat=863&page=2

Could be a pulley rubbing on it, or o e of the bolts that hold the oil pan on is too long and rubbing on the belt

I have no clue how you would fix that without any welding or what not. Has enough material been grind away so it can sit flush?

It doesn't even look like enough material is taken off to clear the bolt. Now It seems there is enough material for it to sit flat but that maybe causing it to sit cockeyed. (talking about two different areas here)If you haven't read this thread it may help shed some light on the issue as well...

Its a grounding issue. Happened a lot on my dads old 1g till we added a ground.

My 2g did something similar, and mine ended up being the bushings for the rear end had fallen apart. But since you have replaced that it could be a carrier bearing or something along those lines. Hell maybe the clutch chatter although that more on acceleration.

Double check that what you grind down has enough clearance to lay flat. Because either the rotor or the caliper is not straight. I had the same issue to me. I'm pretty sure all i did was make sure the caliper was straight by walking it on as described as before. Maybe I did have to take it off...

speedhut.com or something along those lines use to make sweet gauge overlays that you could customize with your own words and what not.

I bet your caliper is not straight and you can't notice it till you bolt the rotor down. I had the same issue and it ended up being the caliper touching the rotor. To fix this I had to "walk" the caliper bolts, i.e. tighten the top a bit, then the bottom, then the top again, and so forth to...

That's cool. I had been using connectors from Kimball Midwest and their ratcheting crimping tool. I liked that style of connector because it has a section on the end that is heat shrink and so it seals that end and helps it from pulling out. I like those heavy duty metal ones with the heat...

I bled mine farthest away to closest, so a bit different than that diagram. But I have no issues with mine. Since you replaced all 4 calipers I assume, it will take a long ass time for them to bleed out. I assume what happened is that even though you thought they were bled you still had a huge...

Someone needs to mass produce aluminum door handles already!

If you're building them with aftermarket internals then either will be fine. If you're just dropping in a stock rebuild then I would opt for the 6 bolt. That's how I see it.

Could you show an example of what that would like? I'm always looking for better ways to do things

My father had 3g rims on his 1g with no issues at all. He did have the different styled rim but that shouldn't matter as it still came off a 3g.

Try mitsparts.com see if anything pulls up. If not might be easier to hit up Chrysler dealer.