My fuel line rusted and broke right at the unit too. I had a spare that someone fixed. They took a firewall fitting and completely removed the old line from the pump. They put the fitting where the line used to be, used some fuel line to the pump, and some brake line to connect to the stock fuel...

It's a direct bolt in for a 1g. No wiring harness hacks or anything, looks just like stock but flows more. I ran one in my talon for a year or two before I went to the 255. I believe I still have the vr4 pump too.

Buy used rods, nothing wrong with that. Shop around though man, you can get a good built longblock for under 3 grand in most cases.

Mine acted somewhat the same when I lost a few springs on the disc. They wedge in there and mess things up. You'll be able to tell when you remove the inspection cover. I had peices fall out on me.

I used them in my first 4g63 build, the motor put down just shy of 350whp.

Yep. I have a stock one off my old gs on my tsi right now untill the agx gets back from a warranty claim.

Whatever happend to the "whopper head" commercials? Those were great!

Our government is a joke, always has been and will be. The constitution actually says if the government goes nuts and/or we dont like it, revolution time. But the 300 million+ people here are too chicken *hit to do it. We need some assasinations around here if you ask me. Some people need to be...

The 1g turbo one will work. I used it on my old gs, and did a write-up in the tech archive on this site on how to hardwire it.

Must be an older version of it then. The spare 14b I have wont fit into the ebay 16g housing. The turbine wont even fit into the hole.

If that's just an exhaust side from an ebay 16g, then no it wont fit. They are too small for the mhi units to fit it. I have a spare one in the garage, and I've tried it. Unless they've changed, wont work.

It will bolt in, but you'll have to hardwire it since the connectors are probably different.

I'm pretty happy with them overall though. You can tell theyre on the car driving around town though, little stiffer than stock. I'm looking forward to putting on my drag radials and setting the rear to 8, see what theyre all about.

Yea 1 is soft and 8 is the hardest setting with those. My one shock was completely blown. I took it off today, it wont even rebound.

Mine are on stock springs with the agx's on all 4 corners. It's pretty smooth going down i-70 at 80+ mph with the settings all on 1. I got mine on ebay from jdmwerks for like $330 shipped or so. I have to send one of my rears back since it blew, but the agx's carry a lifetime warranty UNLESS you...

No. The ebay one is a bit smaller than the mhi one. I already tried, lol.

I had a sprung 6 puck for about 20k. You get used to it, but its different in the beginning. You have to bring the revs up a bit more to take off, and I rev matched to downshift too. If I didnt, the car would jerk when it bit. It was nice, but it's hell on the drivetrain. I went to a full face...

How do these compare to poly mounts? I have the full poly motor mount kit installed in the tsi, I'm used to the rattling now.

Jeff99gs, no you cant do that. One of those plugs is filtered oil, the other is not. You 7 bolt guys have 2 options on an oil cooler. The sandwich adapter or buy a 7 bolt external cooler filter housing. I *think* machv sells them.

If you know who did it, shoot them when the hurricane comes. Then throw the body(ies) in the flood water, looks just like another flood victim. Or I like to call it, karma.

2 counts of knock is nothing. I'm getting 18* of timing with my evo3 16g at 20 psi with pte 680 injectors. Sounds like your sensor is going. Just look for the black goo coming out of the back of it.

Dont start buying parts untill you get it tore down. Do a dry and wet compression test first. It could be as simple as a plugged pcv valve or as bad as needing new rings/pistons.

You shouldn't get any part throttle knock. How old is the sensor? But like you said, 40* of timing isnt good on a turbo car. You should look into getting a turbo ecu if you dont run one already asap.

The datalogger can only read up to 1599 hz in stock form. But it just sounds like you need bigger injectors/pump is all. The stock system maxes out at ~16psi with the 14b, so i'd say the evo3 at 13psi is pushing a little more cfm than the 14b is at 16.

If it's a narrowband light-show gauge, it's not even worth putting it on.

This little fvcker has some power! Finally got the wideband hooked up, and even though it's still funning a little rich, it pulls so much better. It's at 17psi now, I havent had a chance to turn up the boost and tune it again yet.

I just spliced mine right into the cig light power wires.

I saw the video. He was dead on impact or when the blower went. They REALLY need to find a better way to tie those superchargers down when they go. Those straps they use are a joke, no chance for a 6000+ hp part flying off.

It spins 3rd at 14psi, I can get my video cam out if you like and film it. Granted the 14b was toast, this still pulls harder at low boost than the 14b maxed out. My tires aren't the best, but they're decent. Goodyear eagle rs-a's. But if this one ever goes bad, it will get mitsu internals with...

I haven't had a chance to pull some logs yet. I say it's more powerful at 12-14psi than the 14b at 20 is because the 14b never spun 3rd gear as soon as boost hit. Both tires spin even with my slowboy lsd insert. I really need to get my wideband hooked up so I can see what 20+ will do.

The ebay evo3 knockoff. It's not the "gt", just the ebay evo3.

The ebay 16g housing will not fit a mhi turbo. A mhi will fit on a mhi though. I tried it with a spare one I have, the ebay housings are a tad too small for the mhi exhaust wheel.

It's 12mm by 1.5 or 1.25. I cant remember off the top of my head, but I have the tap and die for it out in the garage.

Like I said, my fuel pressure was 12psi higher than stock with a 190 on stock wiring. I found out the hard way that the fuel pressure doesnt rise equally when it's over-ran either, it's not like I was 12psi higher all the way. Made it a pita to tune.

Yes you need an afpr. I was seeing 12psi over stock on the stock fpr with just a 190lph pump. You can run it without one, but idle and being able to tune it correctly will suffer.

I just finished up routing my ssac kit through the drivers side. I had to cut out that tow hook thingy to make room for the pipe. Other than that, a couple of 90*'s and a j-pipe was all I needed.

I'm building down at Hocking College in Nelsonville. I've seen a 2g orange turbo dsm coming down 37. Anyone on here?

Sure, just give me a few days. I really need to get my wideband o2 mounted to make things easier.

This thing pulls so much harder at 12psi than the 14b did at 20.

Yea I think mine was like $269 shipped or so. It was missing some nuts and bolts, but oh well, I just used the old ones. The wg arm was WAY out, I had to adjust it a lot. Just a little bit of tension on the flapper was all I did.

Mine just arrived friday and will be installing it after I port the bejesus out of the wastegate hole. They really need to address that hole though, it's more of a common sense thing. My ebay xtd 6 puck clutch just went out after 20k , so I just dropped 450 on an act 2100 and a used streetlite...

They did in mine. I took one axle out of my 92 gs that I parted out and put it in the tsi. Works fine after 20k miles.

It's powdered sugar. It's delicious.

I need the midwest help with a possible scammer in Oklahoma. This person "sent" my evo3 I bought out a week and a half ago. The usps tracking number still wont work. I have filed with paypal, the Tulsa police department, and the cybercrime division of Tulsa's police. I have 2 email addresses...

Something is up with your tune. You shouldn't be anywhere near -34% correction. Your probably knocking like crazy pulling that much fuel. Running lean will drive up your coolant temps since your adding a lot of heat.

I think my -04 feed line from the ofh just ate my rebuilt 14b. It has side to side, plus in and out. Balance shafts removed and no porting of the relief valve either. The turbo only had 10-15k on the rebuild, so either the sky-high pressure did it, or the thrust bearing feed hole is plugged or...

Do it yourself and save a couple hundred. Just scribe lines on the compressor, nut, and shaft and line them back up when your done. Vfaq has a writeup on how to do it, granted its on a 14b, but its similiar.

It'll work, just like a 6 bolt swap. Turbo internals in a n/a block are fine, last one I built put down 342 whp.

Sounds like one of the roofers has a nice dvd player now.