First, I run 8:8 JE pistons and they are great. I was going to try running N/A for a while before boosting but with the low compression pistons it didn't run like I thought it would. I started out boosting low 5psi and worked my way up. Megasquirt or Portfueler are your best tuning options for...

With the oil pressure sender tapped off the back of the motor, I too see a lower oil pressure once the engine is warm and ran for a while. I was told this is normal. I see about 6psi at idle after a long drive time. 40psi cruising. 10w30 Royal Purple built motor.

I'm thinking spark would come into play. I have the same setup and I'm currently at 15psi because I have nothing to control or give me a hotter spark for high psi boost. Get an ignition coil like a MSD DISC2 etc... then tune the portfueler to handle 20+ psi.

I just finished my 420a build a year ago and everything your getting from everyone on here is true. The cost is HIGH with all the parts and labor. I did all the work myself and yes I did a lot of things twice before getting it just right. It really hits you once you crack open that stock block...

I guess it would be worth the wait. I still need something to control timing. I hope this will still allow us guys who live in TX to pass inspection. Can't have CEL!!

I guess it would be mechanical timing I'm looking at adjusting but figured there has to be a way to adjust when the spark triggers to make up for it being off a little. I guess adjustable cam gears is the only way to adjust mechanical timing on our engine without breaking half the engine down...

Well, I see alot of guys run the MSD DIS 2 on our setup but I think thats just for more spark and rev limiting. I'm trying to find a shop to tune the car for me and they always ask what do I have in place to control timing and spark. So I just want to basically know what add-on could I use...

^^Sorry, I ment 8 to 900! Lol, but yes from what I remember how the marks line up on the crank and the gears, everything was in line. I'm thinking it had to be right or else I wouldn't be getting the numbers that I'm currently reading.Also after driving for a while, the shaking seems to settle...

Ok, so I have searched this topic on here for some time and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for. I've rebuilt my 420a and I'm currently boosting at about 14lbs and everything seems fine. Idle: 8 to 900 A/F: 14.7 avg Vacc: 19inchesAt start-up the motor seems to shake more so than it...

Yeah, your right. I did cut the map down a little but just haven't done it enough. I've been thinking about running a serial cable from the portfuler to inside the cab to view live data and record but not sure if drilling a hole through the portfuler for the cable to pass through will hurt it.

^^Overheating issue fixed, new radiator. Still haven't gotten the portfueler fine tuned. I'm saving to have it tuned by a shop, plus I'm waiting until I get something to control spark and timing. She still pulls great and idles with no issues. I got my inspection done and right after, CEL comes...

You can just buy a tach adapter like Autometer and wire it in from your ignition coil.

Hahn will charge me for it since I didn't buy my portfueler from them directly. I'll buy it if I have to but I figured I'd ask around first.

440cc/48lb injectors. 16g turbo, hahn stage 2 kit with the portfueler. Can you email it to me?

Well, I still need to do some fine tuning. She's borderline too rich, I got my portfueler from a third party and running off there tune. I'm hitting 10 a/f around 7psi. If anyone has the base map stage 4 from hahn I can compare the tune with, I would appreciate it.

Thanks for the props! Sadly I just found a leak in my radiator! Overheating, getting a new radiator next week.

Any body have the base map for the stage 4 calibration that they are willing to email me? I bought my portfueler from a third party and I'm not sure if its the same map that hahn sends you. I would like to compare it to my fuel map.

I'm just babying it while I break the motor in. Believe me its getting turned up soon!

WOW! I guess I will be rim shopping next, lol. I get props on them from alot of people but everyone has different taste. The car has a 16g turbo running 10psi.

^^Yes, Portfueler.

After 2yrs she's finally finished. Now she just needs to cleaned up and waxed. I'm getting my stock bumper and hood repainted. PS, I do have a filter on the turbo inlet, I just didn't have it on at the time.

^^They are but if you don't own a Honda or GTR, they don't care about your '98 Mits Eclipse GS that your willing to pay for a turbo install. They've gotten to the point where they just rather deal with highend cars.

I bought a Spec Stage 3 6 disc for my 420a build and was wondering did anyone notice that the presure plate teeth or spindles, whatever you call them, are not formed like the OEM plate. So now it feels as if the clutch doesn't engage unitl at the very end of the pedal push.

I'm having the same issue! I just finished a rebuild and the timing lined up as should. I installed an EGR block kit and I left the EGR solenoid connected but without the vacuum line connected. I didn't think this could cause a bad idle. I've been thinking maybe a vacuum leak.

Ok, so I finished my rebuild and its time to fire her up for the first time. I turned the key a few times to push fuel to the fuel rails (running a portfueler system as well). Once the fuel got to my stock rail, fuel begans to shoot out of the bottom of the first injector in line. Does fuel pass...

Ok, I wasn't sure if just clamping a hose over this type of end would be good enough to hold high fuel pressures.

Ok, the fuel line I got from Hahn looks like the one in the attached pic except it has no threaded nut on the end.

^^ok, no its not like that. It looks as if there should be a flare nut at the end to cover it. Ill post a pic so you can see what im talking about. Once i remove the stock fpr, do i just connect my return line straight to the top of the tank. The fuel filter stays in line with the feed line?

I got the part of installing the portfueler itself, only the whole return line is what I trying to invision.

I have searched and still can't get a clear picture of how to install my fuel return line for my portfueler set up. I have a '98 model FYI, without a return line! I ordered the parts from hahn to install the same fuel return line they would run on there car and the instructions to me don't paint...

If you buy it from Hahn you'll spend about 1200 but if you ask around on forums and search on ebay you might find someone trying to sell theres. I bought mine off a guy who snapped a bolt on the tensioner and didn't want to rebuild so.. I got it for 600. I'm sending it to Hahn to calibrate it...

Buy the Portfueler and be done with it! I'm currently building my 420a and I've read and heard to many bad things about tuning with FMU's so.. I just spent the money and got the portfueler from hahn racecraft.

My 98 gs has 196k and i didn't think twice about boosting it before a rebuild! Rebuild first then boost it, you'll be happy you did!

So will a msd tach adapter work, its only like 50 bucks? I see different brands to choose from.

I searched this and didn't quite get the answer I was looking for. I'm in the process of buying the remaining parts for my portfueler system and the Hahn sales person keeps getting confused when I ask him if I really need that $90 Tach Adapter. I ask him if I can just tie onto the stock tach...

^^You no what I did, but I starting to think if I cut it big enough! I ordered some adjustable cams so when I install them I'm going to look at the back timing cover and cut it even more if i need to. Good thinking!

It may not be a problem but I have the motor out of the car now and I just don't want to have to deal with this issue once the engine gets back into the car!

I install the mechanical tensioner setup on my 420a and I'm worried that the timing belt will move off the cam gears once the engine fires up. I saw the youtube video that shows that there's a .007 gapp between the block and the tensioner top mounting holes and once the engine mount is installed...

I got it off eBay with the tensioner and it's the T246RB.

I did it over and got it like a mm before the mark. Something about these gates belts, the teeth aren't like the OEM belts!

Here are some pics of my timing marks. Does this seem like a good alignment? I marked with a sharpie where the crank is when the piston is at the top of the cylinder.

^^So was your tdc mark a tooth before the mark or after? I'm having this problem too. Im curious as to how off can it be before major problems occur? I also having to loosen one idler pulley just to get the belt on without adjusting the tensioner! HELP

I got a new set of bolts from the dealer, so the old bolts are out!

Ordered new main bolts at the dealer because I snapped one reinstalling new crank!

^^Thanks, I'll check it out!If using ARP Main bolts, do you always have to get an align hone? Can these bolts just not drop right in like the ARP head bolts.

^^I hear ya! I'm convenced, I will not try to run it with a missing bolt!

^^Come ON! One small bolt, tell me it wouldn't cross your mind too! LOLOK, now who knows where I can pick up stock main bolts? Not planning on doing crasy boost so... don't really need the ARP main bolts. I only see head bolts on ebay so far.

Blood, Swet N Tears!! Right now swet and tears, no blood just yet(knock on wood)!

^^Yeah, thats what keeps running through my mind but I thought I might ask to see if anyone else has done this and gotten away with it running fine.

Ok, so I installed my new pistons and rods and found out the crank is out of round( so I thought, I think I just had the rod caps backwards). Anyway, I installed my pistons for the second time and sealed the bedplate etc... and as I began to torque the main bolts I snapped the 10mm bolt in the...