You can jumper pin 4 to pin 5 on A-18X without causing a problem and this should engage the A/C clutch. Don't do it for more than a few seconds though because the ECM ordinarily turns on the fans to pull air through the condenser when the clutch is engaged and shorting those pins won't make...

'95 GST. How do you take the washer nozzles out? Mine are clogged solidly at the nozzles -- water runs freely from the hose to the nozzle but not from the nozzle itself and I can neither clear it by pushing a wire through nor backflush it with a syringe.The manual is no help: "5. Remove...

That's not entirely right. FIAV/ISCV does give another route for intake air which is under ECU control. The 'fast idle' function --- extra air to give the power to allow the engine to run when it's very cold and idling -- is one of its jobs. It also opens when the driver takes his foot off...

For water in all the cylinders the FIAV (= Idle Speed Control Valve) gasket is indeed the best bet. It's a complicated molded rubber thing that fits in the grooves on the TB and if an old one is reused and doesn't fit right or if it's left out, you get a leak. Coolant circulates through the...

I think the first question is how bad is a 15% low leakdown test. I haven't done that test and don't know: Maybe someone who has can educate us?Then I wonder if this is a random pull junkyard engine in which such an issue isn't surprising or a better grade that should have some warranty...

In addition to Gary's suggestion, look for a wire coming out of the factory plug (other side of your adaptor) and going to car metal structure.And check the installation instructions for the radio: It's possible they want the metal case of the radio grounded somehow and don't use a wire in...

Of course the problem can't really be the 0-rings. They're up at the fuel rail and under fuel pressure. Your problem will be the rectangular cross section seals at the lower end which is under vacuum. These are subject to engine heat, they can crumble, pick up 'junk' when injectors are...

Voltage at the battery after starting should be over 14. 14.4 or so, depending on the age of the battery.It sounds like you have a charging system problem that is not the alternator. If so, you'll have to troubleshoot. First steps would be to measure the voltage drop from the BAT...

I've had good luck with used condensers. In your shoes I'd try to find a 'you pull it' parts place with a system that still has pressure in it. Donno if you have such parts yards or not.OR - go with an eBay or other supplier that has a good guarantee. Then install the thing quickly when...

Glad to see you're making progress with this!The obvious question is: Did it idle correctly before? If so then, yes, an air leak is likely. The ECM will cut off fuel on idle that goes above 1500 so that's what's causing the surging.Have you gone over it all with a can of starting...

The Eclipse radio is grounded with a wire that runs from the connector in the back to one of the screws that holds the radio in place -- at least that's how it is on my cars -- both were more or less buggered in the radio area so that might be non-factory. But not just any screw -- it has to...

This is a near-universal problem and the fix may be quite a bit of work.As mentioned above 1g/2g Eclipses do not have cabin air filters. The ventilation system collects dust, insect parts, and fuzz in the evaporator, heater/defroster core, and blower wheel as well as everywhere in...

I'm totally ignorant on this but are there freeze plugs for the oil passages? Oil doesn't freeze. But the water jacket goes all around every cylinder and any freeze-up there will push some metal someplace. Either it'll push out a plug or it'll break the block.I'd bet you can buy the...

Congratulations! My guess is you've got two or three more issues before it runs smoothly but you'll get 'er done.You've got to have a good cooling system first so replace that O-ring. Make sure the new one fits correctly: I've seen claimed replacement O-rings in that job that were too small...

You're probably talking about socket A-18X which is the socket for the compressor clutch relay. It would be good to test between pin 1 of that socket and any handy ground when the problem is occurring.If that voltage is always low (around a volt or so) when you have A/C turned on (even if...

This sounds like a fuse. Second to that, a wiring issue.Fuses are like some other things in life: "Looks okay" is not reliable. Get a multimeter and check them, starting in the engine compartment since that's where the stuff that controls whole groups of functions lives.It'll save...

"Fires for half a second" suggests a failure of crank angle information which could be caused by crankwalk, right? I think you can actually see those pulses on a voltmeter, though I don't know the connections for that.The ECM turns on the MFI for about one second when you turn the key to...

Given what you've already done the chances are you've got a bad sensor that's feeding your ECM crap information. I would hook up one of the various 'read out what my ECM thinks is going on' programs -- I use EVOSCAN but there are a bunch of others -- and look at the numbers for the different...

Per the mitsubishi parts lookup it does work. Here's one of the dealers that uses that software:https://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-ecm-md346676I trust the various mitsu dealers' software pretty close to 100% for interchangeability questions. For the difference...

There is close to nothing on a stock Mitsubishi in our years that cannot be gotten with a wrench of 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 22 mm.Things that cannot be 'wrenched' with those sizes are either the few items that are specialized for the U.S. like license plate mountings or aftermarket parts...

DONE, and va=rooom! This was one of the nastier jobs I've ever done for the inability to see or easily feel the work area and the level of pain required to put everything in place --- I've got a few bruises, hands and left arm. But it seems to be done.Here's my list of what I took off to...

Thanks to the advice above I got it out with less than an hour's work. Biggest problem was holding the darn thing due to the usual oily dirt. It was a Mitsubishi starter so probably 150k miles on it.All true. I took the power cable nut loose with it in place -- 12 mm or 13 mm depending on...

It sounds like the fuel pump relay was intermittent. Sure 'nutt, if your fuel pump stops once in a while you'll have stalls! Usually a wrong ECM for the model (but right for the engine) will only cause modest performance problems.Glad you got it fixed!

A simplified version of CK0P0CT's list plus one:1 When running without A/C does the car have normal power? If not, then even a normal A/C load may be a drag. AND there could be a problem in the A/C pulley or compressor causing a drag even when A/C is off.2. When idling after warmup with...

I got the car up and looked at taking the starter out from the bottom. Can't be done because the A/T is enough larger than the manual that the biggest crack down there is about 2" You could do it by taking out the right axle shaft but ... no.I also double checked the need to pull it...

I wouldn't bother checking compression right now. When you have a working ECU then that car should start. If it doesn't, more diagnosis is in order and since people have said it sounds okay cranking, compression isn't the first place I'd look."Almost no compression" (bunch of bent valves or...

The starter's in exactly the same place -- about 10:30 on the tranny housing looking at it from the passenger side. However it has a different part number and the parts places want to know 'auto or manual' before they sell you one.I have Wal-Mart's Best floor jack so I can get it up okay...

I was kind of afraid that might be the answer. Normally I drive it up on ramps for work underneath but since it won't crank ...I've got the battery out and the mounting bolts don't look any harder than lots of others. I'll get the car up tomorrow and see.Can the starter connections be...

Since I have read all the previous posts on this thread (and written some of them) I will add my $0.02.James' ECU is dead. One injector seems to get no pulses at all, another one only clicks 'sometimes.' Opening it up he found a burned R701 and at least one overheated trace, both in the...

how do you get the darn thing out? '95 GS-T, auto trans, A/C.The manual says remove battery, air hose to plenum, disconnect starter, remove starter. With the air hose and battery out there's still a whole layer of stuff over where the starter bolts are and I'm not even sure how to get...

Cleaning the connections on a plug wire makes sense. Replacing wires is usually done in sets because whatever has failed -- insulation, the wire itself, or connection to the ferules -- is the same age for all four and it's heat and moisture that kills them. Because there are three parts that...

Just measure the resistance of the CTS in place with the car at ambient. Look at the table posted; if it's close to what it should be at that temp you are good to go. What causes serious trouble is a shorted or open sensor -- most commonly a wiring issue due to brittle insulation from the...

I know I saw ECU repair service on one of the DSM vendors sites ... I had a crapped out one at the time. Had prices, everything. I'll take a look in the next day or two. Did you try a site search for 'ECU (or ECM) repair'?The video you got was fine for what we were trying to do then --...

He has a bad ECU causing two injectors to be non-operative and although the plugs spark in correct pairs some of them don't spark as often as they should. It is not known yet that they spark when the cylinder is at TDC so there could be some screw up there but until the current issues are...

There's a DSM sponsor who does it -- ExtremePSI maybe? Look at their web site.Sometimes new units are available pretty cheaply and I always try to have a spare. Does anyone have a list of the various interchanges that will work?I pulled out a dead original '95 GS-T ECU last night...

Looks like a bad ECU all right. On the top at the lower right, three pins up on the main connector looks like another burned area and the other end of the trace from that pin looks bad around the plated-through hole. This apparent damage is probably associated with the R701 problem on the...

A longer video just like that one with the plugs in order 2-1-4-3 so we can see whether 1 and 4 are really getting half as many sparks as the other two or does it just look that way because of how the camera works.The issue isn't 'lost frames' but (a) what happens between frames -- is there a...

I see yet another possible issue with the video rather than the car. To help figure this out, James, if you'll do another video say 2x the length and instead of arranging the plugs 1-2-3-4 from top to bottom, lay them out 2-1-4-3 ?General use consumer video 'cheats.' It provides more...

I agree with you. That would be a perfectly innocent explanation -- just an artifact of using a video camera to photograph very brief events. My suggestion of a 2x - 3x longer video was in the belief that if it is a meaningless oddity we'll -- probably -- be able to tell.

Right about RPM dependent of course but they don't seem to be taking fair turns. In that clip I count 11 sparks for #2 (and same for #3) but only 6 for #1 and #4. This cannot be right.However: The question is, am I wrong about my counting? Man, I can't get anything but 11 and 6, but...

James that video of the sparks doesn't look right. The pattern should be:1 & 4 spark (cyl. #1 fires) 2 & 3 spark (cyl. #3 fires) 1 & 4 spark (cyl. #4 fires) 2 & 3 spark (cyl. #2 fires) 1 & 4 spark (cyl. #1 fires again ...)1-4 and 2-3 plug pairs alternate with one pair firing and...

Yep. I think that's the 4g37 engine, very similar to the 4g93 engine I've got in my Expo LRV's but only 8 valves. SOHC. But same general scheme -- ECU, etc.First thing I think of for a sudden loss of power is jumped a tooth on the cam sprocket. So just to be sure: You put the crank at...

Okay, 20-30km/hr at 2000-3000 rpm is pretty clearly a slipping automatic transmission isn't it?Has the fluid level been checked recently? Has fluid been added that you know about? If so was the proper Mitsu fluid -- SP III -- used?When the car is driving well (after a bit of warm up)...

You've looked for leaks, right? Checked every fitting from the fuel rail back to the connection of the steel line back by the tank? A leak will cause most of these symptoms.If indeed your car is 'happier with a full tank of gas' then the problem is in the fuel tank and should be easy to...

As a generality, 'silent' when you turn to START is an ignition switch START contact -- they do wear out, somewhere around 150k miles. A definite CLICK is the clutch switch or solenoid. A serious CLACK!! is the sound of the solenoid and says that the trouble is the starter itself...

Okay James -- you've got the spark wired right and you're getting spark. I always say check the gap because turbo cars must have a smaller gap to avoid causing problems for the coils/transistors but if you've seen sparks on all four plugs that's good enough for now -- just file 'check the...

You're making progress, James. Next thing I would do is pull all the plugs, check the gaps -- 0.028 I think for turbo car but look it up. Hook up the plug wires and lay the plugs with the metal touching the valve cover, unhook the injectors, and have a confederate -- a wife can work well --...

What's the history? Why did you replace the pump? Any other work done at that time?This sounds like air getting into the system when it sits, then the next time you drive it that air expands and causes an overflow. Air can only get in if fluid leaks out so I would look very hard for a...

Probably we can help you figure out what's wrong. First, is this a manual or an automatic transmission?And does the car idle properly when cold? That is, does it start promptly and the RPM go up to 1200 or so until it warms up some?

There is a float in the washer fluid reservoir. The float contains a magnet and there is a magnetically operated switch inside a little tower in the reservoir; when the float is down (empty reservoir) the switch closes and turns on the light.The most common failure is the float sticks in...