I did a boost leak today and found no issues. Jogging my memory back a couple weeks i did put a new positive battery terminal on. The old one had a bad connection so i changed it. I was getting 13.7v at idle in ecmlink and now with the new terminal i am getting 14.1v. I think with having a weak...

It was idling low and the tach was Reading zero Rpm. The weird thing is it was startng to get better again the last block home. I'm working long hours now so I have to wait for my day off to do some checking. :)

Does anyone have any suggestions before I spend money and through a new power transistor on?

I pulled the spark plugs and they look fine. I also am getting spark on all cylinders.

I drove my car today and it ran great until it got warmed up 10 minutes later. I went to take off normal from a light and it was stumbling and cutting out big time and seemed to be flooding out. I shut it down and restarted a couple times just to get it home and would barely run.Also on a side...

jose303 did you figure this out?

I set the adjustments like you said and it seemed to help, thanks Gofer. My logged wideband matches my gauge so i'm pretty sure it's configured correctly.

I will try the suggestions tomorrow and report back. I also have an older Aem wideband that only reads 11-17 Afr so its a pain to try to get it to match up. So you don't think the keystart value in the log when cranking is an issue then?

I have a 1g cas and I have an automatic. Here is a warm idle log and I haven't tried the CoolantTempFuelAdj yet...Here is another cold start log from a more recent date.

I've been having this problem for a while now and it is driving me nuts. It takes a while of cranking most of the time to fire it up. In the log provided it looks like the Keystart value goes up and down and I am not getting any fuel when this happens. It does start right up however when it's...

You can as long as you keep an eye on your wideband. You should invest in something to tune with though...

Here's mine lowered with Eibach springs and Kyb's.....

Nice one, this thread is 10 years old :thumb: I wish gas was still that cheap though...:cry::cry::cry:

How much for both drivers and pass lower kick panels shipped and color please. There the ones that cover the fuse panel and glove box under the dash on the sides. Thanks.

Bump the Spr to 15.8psi and it spools up super quick now with no spikes. I now hit 25psi with no problem now....

I'm using a bullseye T04B 57 trim with stock o2 housing.

Nobody has any experience with the Tru-boost?

I bumped up the spr to 11psi and it didn't seem to help much. I probably will have to go higher than that even....

I'm trying to find a good setting for the Spring crack pressure. I have an adjustable internal wastegate and with the Tru-boost set off, I hit 16psi solid boost. I have slow spoolup and spr set at 10psi.

Post a log if possible....

I just installed a new Tial QR bov to recirculate and am having problems with light thottle cruising. When I lift off the throttle under both vacuum or boost I get an eratic problem with my airflow... Please check the log and see if you can help me fiqure it out. Thanks.

$4.09 at shell for 93 octane.

I just purchased a new Tial QR bov and still having problems with throttle lift issues. When i'm cruising along and not completely lifting off the throttle, my Mafraw, airflow, etc go crazy along with going rich. I did a boost leak early in the year but not in a while since then. Has anyone ever...

Please someone offer an idea.

I don't know what is wrong with this log. I put on a new Tial QR recirculating bov with stock maf and still have issues. when I lift off the throttle, my AirFlowPerRev, Mafraw and BoostEst go up and down. What gives?

Here's an audio prank this mechanic plays on this stupid girl....enjoy:D:D:D‪Stupid woman - mechanic prank‬‏ - YouTube

What should I adjust to make my wideband follow the da table? Log provided....

You could always sell the hallman when you get your Tru-boost....Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I saw a Fluidyne sell for $150. The good radiators are out there...Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I would definitely get one that you can trust like a Fluidyne. You don't want to blow a headgasket.Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Yeah it sounds to me it could be bad gas. Sometimes it says 92 but could be a lot less at some off the wall stations. If was me, I would siphon all the gas out and put back in the 93 from shell or chevron.Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Positive on pin 75. Dave from ecmtuning suggested that I had the stock rear o2 but it has a 6 pin connector.

Nothing else is wired to that input though. Could it be that maybe I don't have a grounding strap on the downpipe?

I ended up wiring it into pin 73 MDP input and it works like a charm now. I'm glad I can now log my wideband but it still makes me wonder why pin 75 rear o2 wouldn't work correctly.

Nobody has any ideas to the problem?

I am having a problem logging my aem uego. I have it wired up to the rear o2 and measured the voltage coming out of the white wire from the gauge. With the o2 sensor disconnected the voltage is 2.39. With the o2 connected it's 3.83 volts. Now trying to log the wideband the voltage is always...

Funny picture...:thumb: Looks like he spent more on the stickers then the whole van.LOL

I prefer the clean look. Stickers and such just give some idiot a reason to mess with your ride....

I would say tiny little paint chips caused from gravel on the road. I had some of these on my black Envoy and had to use some touch-up paint to fix it. I was pretty pissed when i saw it.

I just put a 170* Stant thermostat in and WOW:D what a difference. My temps went from 213* down to an average of 186* even without the fans running. The thermostat in there barely cracked open at 180* but ultimately it didn't open fully in a pan of boiling water. Very Pleased indeed.:thumb:

The boost leak tester that I used recently wasn't sealing tight enough on the turbo. I will have to try a different one just to be sure the tester isn't the issue. Do you think a boost leak would cause the problem in the log?

15-16 steady warmed up. I am running FP3 cams.

Excuse me for being a newbie but how do I do that? It's a Tial 50mm Bov so is the vacuum nipple on top adjustable?

I had the 11psi spring on it and switched to the white 9psi. I was thinking that it wasn't opening up good enough to also the air out causing the fluctuating problem?

I've had this problem for a while and cannot figure it out. I have a vented Tial bov and it doesn't seem to release correctly.I had a 11psi spring in it and changed to a 9psi and it didn't seem to help at all. When I release the gas under boost, it just seems to flutter and it goes between...

I have a hissing air leak sound when I turn on my Aeromotive Afpr with dsmlink with engine off. I don't smell any gas or anything...Is it normal to have a loud air leak sound?

This is the flange that I have and I took off the bov and it wasn't even a Tial. It has nothing written on the top and it looks like a Tial 50mm bov.So you suggest going with the adapter and 1g Bov then and is the jmfab adapter the right size for mine?

I am still having problems with Tial Bov not working right as you can see in the pull log. Notice when I let off gas around 5 - 8 seconds in the log. My BoostEst does some weird things when coming off boost.The BoostEst goes up and down along with the MafRaw and Fuel Flow so It doesn't look...

Where can I get the bottom half of the QR and the best price too?