Thanks much my friend!

I'm sure it's on here somewhere but I've spent the last hour or so searching with no luck. I haven't been on since the update and can't seem to navigate the website like I used to.I'm looking for the complete parts list for the evo3 transmission parts that are commonly used to upgrade the 1g...

I had an experience similar to what you have there. It was 2 broken valves from the timing belt jumping. It destroyed the head.

Hey guys not sure how many of you are on facebook or not but theres a page called fabrication life they post all kinds of cool stuff on there. On welding and fabricating related. Check it out

Just goofing with some 304 stainless 1/8" thick strips. Got bored thought id show some of my skill as well.

Looking to go full coil over and I stumbled passed DGR suspensions. Anyone ever heard of them?

I do understand having ground issues can cause issues. When welding stainless materials with copper flashed mig wire. It will crack under pressure and heat. It doesn't contain the nickel that stainless does. I'm not by any means trying to knock your attempt. Just adding helpful information.

Not too shabby for first attempt. If you're going to mig weld it make sure yous use stainless wire otherwise its guaranteed to crack.

Even if you still wanted bigger walbro had. 400lph out now too thats drop in. Why scavenge for something thats good when better is easy to find.

The 20g that i have on my car i got from a friend who gets turbos out of diesel junk yards. Its a td06-3 i had to change the turbine wheel and shaft to a 16g turbine so a 7cm2 housing would bolt on. Its off a Mitsubishi fuso fh211 cab over truck itll help you some its a genuine mhi turbo. So...

Those ball bearings will get you everytime.... you can rebuild a motor for less then 1k depending on your build. Parts are cheap labor is what gets expensive when having to have machine work done or havine someone do the build for you. Id ditch the 420a pos and go find a gst or gsx of any year...

I didn't take any pictures of the baffles surprisingly and as for materials cost the bulk of the materials came from a project aa buddy of mine started and never finished I traded a couple of side mount intercoolers for and the rest I had laying around in the garage. I priced it out originally...

Yes it has 2 baffles around where the fuel pump is and as another attached to the top.

Still got a few things left to do but its almost done. I like the way it looks back there.

With the materials I had laying around and with the area under the car where the factory tank goes and the depth needed for the factory sending unit I came up with what's pictured. That and I also wanted to be able to go cruise or even drive it to a friday night test and tune and be able to make...

I was replacing the rear brake lines and all the fuel lines and noticed that my factory gas tank was starting to seep around all the seams and the drain and getting some nasty rust spots on it I decided it was time to use some aluminum I had laying around. Its going to be 16 gallons and once I...

Cool thanks. I wasnt sure what size or if it would make a difference.

Just tryin to get some information on what size ss braided brake lines are. The company I work for has the machines and I believe its -3 ss braided line with different color coatings on the outside of the ss braided part. Im not sure if most aftermarket brake lines are -3 or -4. If any one has...

I was using nology hot wires when I first got my car those things sucked.

Im down for this too

I have a td06-3 mhi turbo im using right now and it had a bastard size turbine housing on it but it was off a mitsubishi fuso fh211 and I put the turbine out of my old 16g with a 7cm housing and bolted it up. It has the 2in inlet for the standard air intake off the maf and no clearence issues

Try summit they carry standard heims maybe even afco

I have a 2g shell sitting on blocks pm me for what you're looking for and ill check this weekend to see if it has them

Its turned out pretty good actually

I am using the non turbo block with turbo internals and have had no issues. But as far as the non turbo engine in general make sure you have some way to tune it with the comp ratio being higher it'll definetly need to be tuned the oil feed line on the nt head is easy there is a pipe plug in the...

You also have to get the feel for adding the right amount of filler wire it helps to cool the weld

I have a few o2 housings laying around shoot me a pm.

I probably welded too hot on the flange with It being 3/8 thick. I could have turned my argon flow up just a touch to help. When you weld stianless too hot it turns that dull gray color.

Sweet ill finish it up soon. I have to order a few more weldables to finish it up. From what I measured on the pacesetter manifold that's on my car the manifold im making drops the turbo down and brings it out some. So clearence on the water pipe is much nicer with my td06 20g. And im sure if I...

I had the flanges laying around from a header I cut up that was junk. I decided why not and started in on my own header and here's what I've got so far any input on how it looks and maybe some ideas to make it better or just to leave it. It is all made fromm 304 stainless flanges included.

I've used esab machines before and they're very smooth running machines definetly worth it.

I have a summit brand liquid filled gauge and it seems to read just fine. I know that the reason for the liquid is for vibration absorption.Not sure if the oil is thick enough to cause and issue

Yeah new pigtails would be freaking awesome

I know from the chassis fabrication class that I took at wyotech that bolt in is a bad idea you always want to weld in a roll bar or cage. The structural integrity is way stronger and less likely to pull through the floor and let's face it there are some really super clean cars out there but...

As far as an engine light blinking normally the means there is a catalyst damaging misfire. See if you can get a scanner that will do live feed data and have someone drive around with you and see what its doing.

If its on ebay its more then likey too good to be true. If you want performance parts that do add power there are plenty of vendors/freelancers on here that offer parts and services. And if you want gains you're going to pay for them but they are real gains and not some pipe dream.

No 420a in the 1g that's the 2g the 4g63 came n/a iin the 1gs and had some good power to them stock and is a good base to start with

Its a bit of a drive but I thing old faithful could stretch her legs a bit. Should be a fun drive ecspecialy if I can get a group together from the cleveland area to roll down.

Im down I might even be able to bring a few more cars with me. Ill see what I can do sounds like a good time to me. Hopefuly I can get my 1g rolling and debugged.

The pin holes come from the impurities in the cast. That's why you bake it or heat it up with a propane torch to cook the oils and garbage to the surface and then use a ss wire brush or scotch brite to clean the material. Correct amperage depends who you're talking to. I have my machine set at...

I woild heat up the rail and wire brush it so its clean 4043 is a good filler so just make sure you heat up the piece you're welding so it cooks some of the oils and impurities out and right before you weld it take a piece of scotch brite or a ss wire brush and brush the area where you're going...

Helmet is only if you're running certain times. Passengers is up to the track but when I go to norwalk raceway park the passenger has to be wearing the same safety gear as you helmet, harness etc... they probably cut that out when the car runs to a certain speed for safety issues but I've riden...

Welcome to tuners man. Make sure you do all the routine maintanence stuff plugs wires belts fluids. Make sure timing is set right as well that could cause some issues and make sure idle is set as well. Also do a trans service fluid and filter and make sure to drain the torque converter if...

Ahh I see sweet thanks that's all I needed to know I appreciate it.

Ahhh gottcha. So the pan itself is the same its the way it mounts to the block.

First of all im not sure if this is the proper place for this question but its sort of a newb questions so. What's the difference between the 1g oil pan and the 2g oil pan?

The engine control module and its under the hood on the drivers side up by the airbox I believe.

I know that on the chrysler systems the charging system is controlled by the ecm I've seen where the voltage regulator in the ecm has gone bad and thrown those lights. Try putting another ecm in it and see if that helps any.

S and w race cars out of pa makes direct fit roll bars for both the 1g and 2g

Yeah for sure im sure it wouldn't be too hard to adapt this for both models. And glenn you know it people will be coming out of the wood work to test something new and innovative.