I used a new OEM FIAV seal with the block off plate no rtv though just slightly lubricated with some sil glide.
I have previously rebuilt my TB with new shaft seals and BISS o-ring and the butterfly does indeed close all the way.
Throttle cable is good too in terms of enough slack to allow it to...
Weirdest thing happened the other week.. Car has been running great all year until I replaced the CAS o-ring. Yes I set base timing back to 5* BTDC with a timing light. Yes the notch inbetween 10BTDC and T. Yes I grounded the timing connector via ecmlink. Yes I installed the CAS with the notches...
Hey guys,Been working on diagnosing a random no start problem that happened out of the blue. Parked the car on Sunday, went to cruise it the next weekend and no start.It cranks and I'm getting fuel pressure, but no spark at all until I switch the ignition off then it throws a single spark...
Right on! Goes to show how well something can last if done correctly.I never ended up doing it. I purchased a new block and built it up over the year instead. Got about 200km on it last year before it snowed. Almost that time to take it out of storage again >:)
Haha ya I've always wondered what that spot was ever since I picked the tranny up used. I always thought it was an old piece of gum hardened on from heat lmao. Some chipped off and revealed that it was repairing a chip out of the casting!Ill pop the axle back in now and see how you goes. Much...
Just working on fixing this damn passenger side axle seal leak for the third time. Seal seems to sit pretty damn deep in the hole.
You can see where someone repaired the tranny around where the seal goes in. When I was finishing my build and putting the tranny back in I chipped some of that jb...
Ya pics would help us help you! :) Im thinking you mean the BCM. If you cap the little intake nipple and delete the BCM you gain a few extra psi of boost pressure. But in any case, get those pics on here and we'll work from there.
I built with a na block and couldn't be happier. Great for strokers because you don't have to worry about plugging the squirters cause there not there in the first place! :)
The "electrical operated valve" is the boost control solenoid I'm pretty sure. It goes between the compressor housing and the waste gate and t's to the vac source in the filter can. This one:You wanna cap that one off^ and connect your wastegate like this(this is also answering your "how to...
The one at the turbo is liquid filled mechanical. I'm gonna take off that gauge tonight. Maybe freeing up 3' of -4an line and a gauge will bump me up a couple psi @ idle. I am getting oil flowing to the head though so im not overly worried about this.
I just checked the pressure at my holset, and the gauge is just reading 0. :o Getting 5 psi in the car. I realize it may not be detrimental to the engine it self but Holsets are supposed to be getting 10-20 psi at idle. Now I remember why I was concerned in the first place.
Dang. That's too bad about defiant, he was a great wiseman. And thanks for the input. I wasn't worried so much as I was just curious. When I start the car up and warm it up to full op temp it idles nicely at 10-15 and 1k rpm. After cruising around or a bit and a couple wot pulls I noticed it was...
Alright to update: pressure gets up to about 60-70 psi @4.5-5k hits 80psi at 6k and stays there till 7.5 when I get off. Doesn't get much more perfect then that. Obviously the ported filter housing has a lot to do with it because my engine pressure is the exact same way; doesn't climb past 85psi...
Why is everyone surprised by this? Every Nissan owner exaggerates their hp level lol!I knew a guy who said he was making 370whp in his r33. Stock engine 110psi compression across the board, a knock off ssqv, and a leaking screamer pipe.
Now my alt is charging it to 18v blew out my headlight just idling. I can't see it being the voltage regulator as its a brand new alternator... Any ideas guys?
Hey guys, I finally got the engine fired up an just wanted to make a thread about the pressure at the turbo.Fed from a ported OFH with a -4an line unrestricted and a -12an drain and ported pan my oil pressure settled to about 17psi at 1100rpm idle. I'm expecting that to drop a little more...
Sorry for the bump. I'm having some problems with the wire and I'm wondering where the heavy yellow wires go to on the Saturn? Do they go to the post on the alt like the stock alt? I have them extended with 2 8g ATM. Thanks in advance.
Busted a couple yesterday and parts stores around here won't sell then to me unless I buy another kit. Seems silly to buy a kit just for 2 clamps. Any other alternatives?I'm just waiting to put the axles in so I can finally break in the engine.
No it's not the dvs30. That's the one with the built in map sensor.Regardless of where I tie in for my meth, this now has me concerned as to why my map is reading almost 5v with the car off..
Okay so it only does the spray when I have the wire connected to the map. When I unplug it the controller is on with only the power light lit up which is how it should be.The green wire is supposed to go to the 0-5v wire on the map, which is the pink wire on the ecmlink sd cable. I don't know...
The first time I connected it, it just began spraying as soon as it seen power.(I have nozzle out ATM) so I separated the power wire, tried again and got the flashing yellow. If I disconnect battery and try again, same thing happens: sprays as soon as power is connected then flashing yellow...
Installed exactly like this:
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/instructions/stage%202%20vers1.pdfWhen the key is on and I connect the 12v power it begins spraying, so I take it off and re-connect then I get the blinking yellow. WTF. What do you guys think? Thanks
With the punishment piping I took the big piece that connects directly to the ic on the cold side, flipped it around, and cut about 3-4" off and got a perfect fit. Looks so much better than before.
I seen that thread before I made this one, it didn't seem to help me at all. I just ended up running it from the lower of the two 3/8" nipples down to the cooler, then to the water pipe.
Im shocked that you would even think of going piggyback over standalone with that setup. I wouldn't drive it until you have the money for link. Look in the classifieds, can find it for less that $500 there sometimes.