I'm having a weird issue where my ecu will stop outputing to the power transistor on pins 54 & 55 but its getting good signals from the cas and top dead sensors on pins 21 & 22. The ecu board over all looks good and the caps were replaced a couple years ago as a preventive measure. But if I...

So your not using the front O2 and your using the rear with a wideband using the narrowband simulator?

Not if its valve train timing. If the the exhaust or intake cams are way off they will still be open during part of the compression stroke. I've seen it before.

I think I pissed myself a little laughing.ROFLI'd bet our timing belt is not installed right.

I just dont get why people become infactuated with a particular horse power mark. I think its more important to run components that are well matched and tuned well then trying to push for a particular number.

I want an original nintendo with super techmo bowl in mine.

+1 on stock. Cheap, well engineering and clean.

Well you did it right being AWD, the only way to go imo.

If its been in an engine bay for a long time I've noticed that water can get into the translator really easy and start to corrode the circuits. Mine was acting up and I took it out and cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and an acid brush. Worked great and I then relocated it to the interior.

^^^agreed for every auto gsx I see 30 manuals.

Looks like a decent deal, enjoy.

Your not going to get your stock injectors to safely make 300hp you'll be running way lean at the airflow needed to make that kind of power.

You could make 300hp with a 14b but its not going to be easy and you'll need cams, intake and head work.

Could be valve guide seals, turbo oil seal on turbine side, piston rings or a leaking headgasket.

I'd guess your around 250hp if its all running right. For 300hp+ you will need ecmlink, wideband sensor, e316 turbo, bigger injectors (<650s) and larger fuel pump. That will get you there for sure.

Good luck i served 8 years in the Army and it was the best thing I ever did.

Nice work

When you changed the fuel pump did you put a new pickup filter on or at lease inspect it?

Sounds like your idle speed controller is not functioning or dirty.

Had a smilar issue that turned out to be a fuel filter. Do you have anyway to measure fuel pressure?

When done right in aluminum a helicoil is stronger than tapped aluminum threads. It sounds like its wasnt done right.

I have the same vibe as well and I've checked every thing twice Its driving me crazy looking for it.

I get what your saying but I keep finding peoples logs where there timing is much more "stable" like this one. I wonder if having a high lift long duration cam cause the timing to more active then?

Thanks buddy:thumb:I think my issue still stems around the very irratic timing, in the logs you can see it never stays still. I'm going to check all my my electrical connections involving timing and ignition.

Funny thing is that I didnt change anything. Currently it seems I get more knock under mid throttle settings than at wide open throttle.

Thanks for your help. I didnt realize that the coolant offset would pull timing, I thought it was just to calibrate the output. I used a thermocouple to measure the true output and it was about 10 degrees off. Good to know I'll put it to zero.I'll lower the knock to 2500 and take 2 degrees...

I have a full stage 3 engine and couldn't be happier. I was really impressed at the quailty of workmanship, thats my 2 cents.

You'll need 2 gaskets, 1 that goes between the TB and elbow and the other goes between the TB and intake manifold.

I'm new to dsm stuff so I'm still trying to learn what's "normal" for these engines. So after trying to get my idle a little more stable I started looking at other poeples idle logs and noticed that my timing is all over the place. Anyone got any ideas to whats going on with it? I am running a...

I have it lock in openloop on purpose because I dont have a real front o2 sensor. If i use my wb sensor and simulate it to the front o2 the ecu starts looping from rich to lean and the idle really varies. I dont know if thats because its mounted so far down the exhaust (its even with the...

Ohhh, ok I see I didnt realized you could add more value with the capture values function, I thought I was stuck with the ones that were in the display values list. Thats great news because the mafraw will greatly help in my tuning. Attached is the file with those values added, though the fuel...

Gents V2 doenst have the ability to log those. Its not an option.:ohdamn:

Sorry combinedft and mafraw are not availible on v2. I would if I could.

The simulate function works on v2 I've tried it with link and switched the wb meter to p4 and it worked but the idle was way worse it would swing 1300 to 700 non stop. It still doesnt explain why I cant get the airflowperrev down more. I really wish someone with similar setup would chime in.

anyone get a chance to look over the log?

Personally I've never cared for fwd. I like rwd but I resently got a awd talon and boy does it put a grin on my face. No traction issues at all it just gets it.

log is up and It does have isc position mine seems to be around -34, thanks fellasSo does anyone else running 280 cams getting a smooth idle or are they mutualy exclusive?Another thing is I'm running in openloop because I have no front O2 at all.Another weird thing is that sometimes went...

my switch is definately working it toggles from 0 to -1. Ill get a log up in a second.

Hello, I first off would like to say this is an awesome site. I am new to DSMs but I'm learning quick and diving in head first. I have a 91 tsi that has tons of goodies on it. I filled out the details on it in my profile. The current challenge I'm facing is with my v2 dsmlink I'm having trouble...