I appreciate the help, Im still trying to get this sorted out. It is far easier said than done.

I just put in my Bluemax 1650's and am trying to setup my idle. I am completely new to tuning. From what I understand global adjusts fuel through the range and deadtime effects only idle. When I set the global to what the calculator says -72% the car does not want to idle, it gets too lean. I...

I have seen a bad step on a brand new flywheel personally. If your dropping the trans to whim it you would be ignorant not to check the flywheel step while your in there.

Does anybody know the part number the bushing that is fabricated in this thread? I tried calling my local dealer and they couldn't find anything. I'm not looking for the bushing that goes on the pedal side, I'm looking a bushing that the pin for the master cylinder clevis goes through...

I will try adjusting it when I get home this afternoon. Is the upper switch where the pedal rests for cruise control?

Last year the clutch was not holding power. I tried to adjust the clutch master, but found it was leaking so I parked it for the year. This year I changed the trans for a shep stage 3, checked the clutch, and replaced all hydraulics. Now I'm trying to properly adjust the clutch before the...

I believe it is in the center of the opening, I will double check and take a pic. The pivot ball, fork, and 2600 all have about 3k miles on them. The step on the flywheel is .609. The flywheel is a act streetlite. Picture added

I know this has been beaten to death, but I'm having an issue adjusting my clutch how the jacks trans video says to do it. New OEM master cylinder, slave cylinder and a ss braided line from master to the slave. Bled the system multiple times without any trace of air.I have turned the...

I don't think you are missing anything. I have the same exhaust except for a MAP o2 housing. Mine is the correct length, but it rubs on the driveshaft, and the rear subframe. Also the hangers didn't line up. I massaged it some with a torch and bent it enough that it works now, but it is next on...

On mine there is one on the peak and one in the valley where the two makes line up with each other. This is at TDC

The end of the line is a female end, the it has a male on each end 90* fitting, and the end supplied is bigger than the hole that is recommended in the mighty max housing thread. Do I just need to get an adapter to connect the line to that spot? What do I do with the sender that is currently in...

Picked up an FP red and oil feed line from them to feed it off the housing like they recommend. My question is do I remove the big bolt on the housing and put the 90* reducer fitting in there?

Justin_l_ submitted a new DSM Profile :TalonRead more about this vehicle here...

When I bought the one for my 1g from rock auto it was a mitsu cable/package inside a Dorman box. This was a couple years ago now.

FP's manifold is a DSM flanged manifold.

Just because some people can't use RTV doesn't mean it everybody isn't capable of using it.

Just to update this, it took a little while but the wheel is being replaced under warranty. Thanks again PJ for taking the time to get it taken care of.

Magic!!! Hahaha I just wanted to show everybody my experience with this wheel, not start a fight :-). PJ told me I can send it back to him and he will send it out for warranty, we'll see what happens from here.

Tial 50mm BOV working properly, no surge.

Not trying to hide anything, as stated there was damage to the back of the wheel.

It started life as a TD05, changed to TD06 with the billet wheel and a new cover.

It is marked there. Hard to read but I believe it is KTS MFS D655C M

Anything is possible, but like I said I don't have the tools available to check. I don't think I did but I can't say no for sure.

This is the best I can do with my phone but their are no marks from it rubbing, also you can see the turning machine marks on the edges of the blades, another indicator that the wheel wasn't in contact with the cover.If I had access to a v block and indicator I would check the shaft for...

The compressor wheel was slightly seized on the shaft, and clearly spun. It was TQ properly with a calibrated snap on TQ wrench. The back of the wheel had marring from spinning, but there is also marking on the turbo behind the wheel where it was rubbing. Assuming from where the thrust plate had...

Got this 7 blade wheel from Austin, put it in a MHI 20g with one of his compressor covers as well. This was a low mileage turbo fed from the head with an inline filter. It seized after about 300 miles, probably 1000 miles total. I will say it felt great while it lasted. Finally got around to...

He is on here. DSM Forums - View Profile: 95GSXracer

I'd go with a thermal, they sound great! Not too loud, quality materials, and look great installed.

I don't have any calipers handy, but with a ruler I got 49mm

I prefer FIC personally.

That is nick stack's car, not the op's car. Check Newengdsm.org, it is posted when people go down on there usually every Friday though.

That's weird, I have a MR exhaust on my car with no issues. Did you buy them new? If so I would contact MR direct and see what they have to say. A phone call can go a long ways.

You either need a test pipe or a cat to put between the cat back and downpipe.

Yes the nut is tight. It seems solved now. We're assuming that there was something clogging the drain line. When I hooked up a gauge to monitor the oil pressure, we never had the issue again.

I run OEM only for my timing components.

Guess you guys aren't interested?

I just upgraded from a b16g to a 20g with a billet 7 blade wheel. I had a little knock up top. AFR's seem decent during the pull, but maybe a little lean during cruising/normal driving. Last time it was tuned, I was told that it was tuned a little rich because the WB is in the O2 housing, not...

The turbo is not rebuilt, it is OEM parts internally. The only thing changed is the compressor wheel and cover. Checked the oil pressure tonight and it is reading 40psi at idle when cold, about 10psi when warm. Had no issue today when I started it to check oil pressure. Wheel spun freely the...

To start from the beginning I picked up a bastard 20g, but didn't want to run a j-pipe so I picked up a 7blade billet compressor wheel and a 3" intake downward firing compressor cover. I installed everything, turbo spun freely as expected. There is no shaft play axial or radial.I primed the...

You need to put a load on it to get an accurate boost reading, you will only see vacuum at idle. Run the gauge correctly into the cabin, take it for a drive and see what it says then.

Looks like the same price on their site as punishment's site (actually .05 more ;)). Besides if they are looking to expand their product line, this is what they need to do.

How about a recirculated tial MV-s setup? I just hopped on to see what is available, something you guys can do? Feel free to PM me.

Try using a dead blow rather than a rubber mallet. The o-ring used to seal can be very stubborn some times.

As they said, a machinist straight edge, or surface plate. Any machine shop can do it in a couple minutes.

Napa also stocks it. I bought a 3ft section of 2.5" a while ago just incase. Napa part number for 2.5" diameter hose is NBH 639

Best way to remove the shavings is to remove the baffles, clean the valve cover and replace with the ones found in the frelance section here.

Looks like I know what I'm reading tonight at work.

Is it going to be a baffled valve cover? You said it is shorter so it makes me wonder.

I only have a mig currently, Lincoln SP135T. Great little welder, but need to pick up a nice TIG welder in the future.